I understand it's a safety thing, but Harleys didn't have them for years. Then people what happened got stupid?
I someone doesn't know NOT to start the bike in gear without pulling in the clutch first maybe they shouldn't be riding.
I understand **** happens, but it's something you'll only do once. Bypass the damn thing.
Just sayin'
Can't, what I was going to do when mine went **** up. The switch is tied into everything, ecu goes nuts if it's out of the loop.
It very well could be the left switch-pack, probably is, but... if everything else is working normally, before you replace the switch pack, just give the clutch lever switch a look.
When you pull in the clutch lever you can see it (see below), if it gets stuck in or hangs up and doesn't pop out, like in the picture below, then your bike doesn't know the clutch lever is pulled in. It takes a minute to check. The clutch lever keeps it pressed in until you pull in on the clutch lever, then the cam on the lever rotates and releases the button, and it extends out like in the picture. I had a bike awhile back that this switch had gotten stuck on. May not be your issue, but easy to eliminate as a potential one.
Can't, what I was going to do when mine went **** up. The switch is tied into everything, ecu goes nuts if it's out of the loop.
I don't have a Rushmore or canbus. Just rigging the switch so it shows the clutch lever ALWAYS PULLED IN makes the system go nuts? Perhaps I don't want a new bike as much as I thought I did.
If the bike has cruise control and "thinks" the clutch is pulled in it, cruise control is not going to want to engage, because pulling in on the clutch is one of the things that disengages it.
Good practice is not starting the bike in gear in the first place. Hope you get it figured out, going to take a look in my 2016 Touring manual and see how that works.
I did the WD40 trick in another thread. It's working now but looks like that is just a temp fix. I'll get it into the dealer.
Certainly get it replaced at the dealer if your ESP will cover it (with a surcharge to you?). But I wouldn't say the WD40 trick is just a temp fix. Mine (a '17) acted up in the first season. I lubricated it and it hasn't done so since (now at about 29,000 Km). Of course it gets lubricated when checking everything at each service. Your bike is 4 years old so it might just want a little lubrication if it hasn't been done.
Just sometimes you might stall at a stop so easy to hit starter and not have to find neutral first.
Still, put the bike in neutral and then put it gear. Practice enough and you'll be fine. If you're stalling at a stop you're doing something wrong or there is a problem with your bike, which then makes the case for you shouldn't be riding the bike in the first place!
To the OP, there is a clutch interlock switch in the housing, works similar to the brake lamp switch on the other side. Follow this for a test:
Certainly get it replaced at the dealer if your ESP will cover it (with a surcharge to you?). But I wouldn't say the WD40 trick is just a temp fix. Mine (a '17) acted up in the first season. I lubricated it and it hasn't done so since (now at about 29,000 Km). Of course it gets lubricated when checking everything at each service. Your bike is 4 years old so it might just want a little lubrication if it hasn't been done.
Same here when my 17 RK acted up dealer was 7 weeks out for appointments and no stock when I did get in. Lubed it and been good ever since. Been not quite 2 years now.
This happened on my '09.
There are no safety switches on neutral, clutch, or kick stand.
One day it wouldn't crank until I put it in neutral.
It happens only intermittently now but at least I know that finding neutral is the remedy.
I do understand that one should usually start in neutral but, as said earlier, you might stall in traffic and need a quick start.
The real puzzle for me is that there never was any safety mechanism for starting, now it seems to have developed one on its own...
03-14-2019, 08:46 AM
