Hello all, first time posting here. I have a 1998 anny RK with 10k miles. I haven’t ridden the bike in 7 months, yes shame on me. I just installed a brand new battery and when I throw the switch I do not hear the fuel pump spool up. The bike just cranks and cranks with no ignition. I changed the spark plug which obviously didn’t help. What else can I do before I tow it to the shop !? Thank you very much

 

Check your fuses.

 

if I checked the correct one, on the ride side behind the panel, a blue 15 amp plug, it looked fine and I even swapped it with the spare and that did not work.

 

I would check ALL the fuses then check your trouble codes: https://dgcustomcycle.com/tech/harle...es-04-present/

Let us know what you get.

Ride safe!

 

That is the correct fuse. Check for trouble codes. Double check the connections to the battery. You may even what to have the battery load tested. Does the engine light come on when you turn on the Run switch? Check fuel pump relay.

 

You have a 1998 Road King Classic with Magneti Marelli fuel injection and it has 10,000 miles.
The bike has a new battery...why? was old one tested?
It is unknown if there are any changes from stock on the bike like pipes, air box, fuel adders or stage 1 or 2.
You report that fuel pump does not spool up (make noise) when throwing switch (handlebar switch to RUN) and tank switch ON.
The bike cranks and cranks but no ignition.
It is unknown if someone has removed tank or seat and maybe disconnected wire to fuel pump between tank and seat.
For the moment based on limited information it would seem like pump is either disconnected or stuck.
I am leaning towards disconnected. It is very easy to disconnect wires and forget to connect.
I believe it was a barrel shaped connector maybe clearish near location where seat meets tank and under console.

 

Here is a list of common things for your year and model.
Consider printing and placing in saddlebag
1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .

The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.

2-COMMON..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. There is now a cable harness from Drag Specialties to update to 1999 Speedometer with plug...NO cutting required.

3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.

4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.

5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..

6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…As an emergency you can just disconnect idle control motor behind air filter when when idle control plunger is at rest...basically would have to hold throttle for warm-up.

7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.

8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head trying to chase an intermittent cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.

I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley # 99483-98 .
Read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.

I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.

Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.

Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.

Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. Major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt.

Again, print this list.
Print and place in saddlebag.
Most people say sure whatever..the mechanic will take care of it.
Even if you do not own a screwdriver you can still give list to a mechanic if you run into trouble.
The problem is that many mechanics rarely deal with EVO motors, less have worked on the M & M fuel injection and even less want to read the one chapter in the service book.

 

Lets start with the basics; compression, spark, fuel.

Pull the spark plugs out, lay them on the side of the engine, with the wire connected. Hit the starter motor.

If the engine cranks over differently (faster and smoother) compression is probably just fine. You've none with the plugs out, so it should spin faster and smoother.

Look also for spark at the plugs. Check them both. If there is spark, the problem lies in the fuel circuit. If there is no spark, first make sure the plugs are making metal contact, if they still do not spark, you've an ignition problem.

Put the plugs back in, crank the engine over just like you would to start it. Pull the plugs and sniff, and look. Are they wet at all? Do they smell of gasoline at all? If no, you're not getting gasoline into the cylinders.

That should help you zero in on where to start chasing the problem.

 

Reading codes on your bike:
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops. Handlebar switch must be on RUN
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops turn KEY switch OFF
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will very slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of about 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric

14 engine temp. sensor

15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

update: Code 35 on Magnetti-Marelli EFI Systems
Normally a code 35 is set when there is a problem in the tachometer circuit. We
have identified another possible cause for a code 35 not specifically covered in the
Service Manuals. It pertains to a current or recurring historic code 35 (Tachometer)
on 1995-2001 EFI Touring models including Road Kings not normally equipped with
a tachometer. This code may be accompanied by codes 41, 42 or 56 and perhaps
even hard starting, poor cold idle and driveability issues. The ECM is functional
because it still has Key On power at pin 26.
Diagnosing this possible condition is relatively easy. Using the Scanalyzer, look for
consistent battery voltage in the data monitor mode (you may have to perform a
wiggle test while monitoring) because the Scanalyzer is monitoring voltage at pin 35
of the ECM (not battery voltage across the battery terminals). Closely inspect every
connection from the Main Circuit breaker to the ECM for loose crimps or
connections. Even a loose ECM fuse or intermittent ECM relay can cause this
condition.

 

Starter is cranking over. So I wouldn't bother. If I read right, pump is not pressurizing. So I woud focus on fuel pump.

I wouldn't even bother with checking fuel pressure yet. Because I suspect you would hear the pump, even hoses had holes or such.

Why is the pump not being told to turn on? That is the circuit you want to look at IMO.