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Curing the bobble.

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  #31  
Old 04-30-2019, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Here is what the stock rod ends look like. New ones from McMaster



Just be aware those will loosen up in high vibration application like stabilizer links on our motor & mounts, I deal with a lot of those industrially and they are regular check and replace item if there's a lot of buzz going on. Why the moco uses the rubber insulated version, absorbs most of the vibration.
 
  #32  
Old 04-30-2019, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Just be aware those will loosen up in high vibration application like stabilizer links on our motor & mounts, I deal with a lot of those industrially and they are regular check and replace item if there's a lot of buzz going on. Why the moco uses the rubber insulated version, absorbs most of the vibration.
They do need checking and wear out.. The Sputhe ones only last about 10K to 20K before they start getting loose. While they did seem to increase vibes a little on my Dyna, I've not seen any noticeable increase in vibration on the bagger.
 
  #33  
Old 04-30-2019, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
They do need checking and wear out.. The Sputhe ones only last about 10K to 20K before they start getting loose. While they did seem to increase vibes a little on my Dyna, I've not seen any noticeable increase in vibration on the bagger.
Found the all stainless versions last longer but they are a bit pricey. Probably need to check my RK, I hotrod it as hard as I do the shovel
 
  #34  
Old 04-30-2019, 10:17 AM
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The rubber stock ones are hard to tell if bad, but I put the ball in the vise then pushed & pulled on link. Could see a gap opening and closing as I did it. This was the one under the filter, I'm sure the other side had give with torgue of the motor. 128,000 miles on that link. Only changed the front till I get some lifters, then I'll do the top.
 
  #35  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:19 AM
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Ended up replacing the heim joints on the front engine stabilizer and the joints on my progressive touring link. Also performed a steering head bearing adjustment. The Improvement is absolutely night and day. Bike has 70k on it and has never handled better. Thanks for bringing these heim joints to my attention!
 
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  #36  
Old 05-14-2019, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Brew61
Max

I notice the rod ends you have posted have a Nylon/PTFE Plastic Blend Insert or the other one has a PTFE Plastic Liner. How will those hold up to the heat?

I have a 2004 Road King and I am trying to tighten everything up by rebuilding my swing arm right now. I installed Aurora Bearings and new steel bushings as well as the Sta-bul disc kit and the Drag Specialties Swing arm Isolator Mounts. I am also replacing my front motor mount with a Glide Pro one.

So after reading this, it sounds like that is something else I should do.

Thanks
Bruce
How do you like the Aurora bearings? I have had to rebuild my 2002 swing arm twice (bearings) in 57,000 miles. I installed the Aurora bearings but they were very stiff once installed in the swing arm (and I have a set of the factory tools). Swing arm up/down movement was very stiff. I didn't ride it like that and removed the Aurora's. Replaced with the HD bearings and all was good (not stiff). When my bearings wore out, I would hear a noticable clunk if I pushed up on the belt. Removing the shocks and tire up, very noticeable side to side play and same clunk. Yours the same?

Thanks
klammer
 
  #37  
Old 05-14-2019, 04:43 PM
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My next project! Thanks great thread
 
  #38  
Old 06-17-2019, 02:16 AM
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very interesting read I will be checking these tomorrow.
 
  #39  
Old 06-17-2019, 06:43 AM
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I just finished mine, putting the top one on. That one was worse than the front. Bike handles like a dream. Let go of bar at 60 mph and it tracks nice and straight. This is of course after doing everything else four years ago. Have yet to try the high speed run yet to see if the death wobble is still there, as it still had a touch of it last year when would hit ��
 
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