Touring link/ wobble
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 145
Likes: 79
From: 58504
Touring link/ wobble
I have a 2004 RKC. Only modifications I've done to it are rear Ohlins shocks, otherwise it's all stock. This is my first HD and I picked it up in the spring of this year.. I have put about 5k trouble free miles on it so far. Lately I am noticing what I think is the "bagger wobble" while leaning the bike over at decent speed, say a long sweeper or a highway on ramp. It feels like there is a disconnect between what the front is doing and what the rear is doing. I notice the front start to wobble a bit and it goes away as soon as I decrease throttle or slow down a bit. Doesn't happen going straight. Even with cruise on at 80mph the bike tracks nice and straight. I have a few questions I'm hoping you fellas can help me out with before I dive into replacing/ fixing stuff.
Does my description fit what constitutes the Harley death wobble or bagger wobble?
I am looking into a touring link or stabilizer system. Probably will go with progressive but open to input if anyone has other options to look into.
Being that the bike is older, I'm guessing it's probably time to replace the swingarm bearing and or motor mounts. Anyone have any input as to how those items could contribute to what I'm feeling on the bike? I'm assuming a worn swingarm bearing would be part of the cause of the wobble. But I mostly only feel it from the front of the bike.
Appreciate any input on this.
Does my description fit what constitutes the Harley death wobble or bagger wobble?
I am looking into a touring link or stabilizer system. Probably will go with progressive but open to input if anyone has other options to look into.
Being that the bike is older, I'm guessing it's probably time to replace the swingarm bearing and or motor mounts. Anyone have any input as to how those items could contribute to what I'm feeling on the bike? I'm assuming a worn swingarm bearing would be part of the cause of the wobble. But I mostly only feel it from the front of the bike.
Appreciate any input on this.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 17,145
Likes: 6,168
From: SE Michigan
I would look at your front motor mount. They're known to shear in half like a bagel. I would avoid going immediately to a stabilizer until you can rule out other problems like your front motor mount, tire pressure, steering head bearing, etc because all you would be doing is masking, not fixing, the problem.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 145
Likes: 79
From: 58504
Thank you. I know there is a ton of coverage of stuff like this but even searching can turn up a daunting amount of info to parouse through.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 800
From: Colorado
Hate to break the news to you, but does not sound like rear end touring wobble over-all, but the front and rear end not dampening with each other, nor pre-sag set up correctly, and maybe the head set bearing too loose as well.
Hence on Harely wobble, you will feel the back end starting to bend out and return back and kind of feels like the entire frame is bending in the middle.
Since the rear shocks where replaced, would start with the front end forks changing their fluid to balance out the front to back end dampening. I have not idea how the rear shocks are set up, so can't tell you want fluid weight you should use in the front forks.
Next, with the front and back dampening the same so the bike compresses and rebounds front and back in a corner the same, need to check the ride high/sag for front and back, to make sure you have that set up correctly both ends as well.
Once you have all this dialed in, then double check the wheel bearing front and back for excessive play, then swing arm for play as well.
Lastly, double check the head set bearings and make sure they are tightened correctly.
Hence on Harely wobble, you will feel the back end starting to bend out and return back and kind of feels like the entire frame is bending in the middle.
Since the rear shocks where replaced, would start with the front end forks changing their fluid to balance out the front to back end dampening. I have not idea how the rear shocks are set up, so can't tell you want fluid weight you should use in the front forks.
Next, with the front and back dampening the same so the bike compresses and rebounds front and back in a corner the same, need to check the ride high/sag for front and back, to make sure you have that set up correctly both ends as well.
Once you have all this dialed in, then double check the wheel bearing front and back for excessive play, then swing arm for play as well.
Lastly, double check the head set bearings and make sure they are tightened correctly.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 2,419
From: USA
Ive an 04 RKC myself. Theres a few things Ive learned about it and done that have greatly helped.
A whole lot of wiggle is there in the steering head actually. Lean in over in a turn and wiggle the bars to feel it. So tightening the steering head, better bars for better leverage, and a steering damper. I have not installed a steering damper myself.
The rear has oem slop in between the swing arm shaft and the inner swing arm bushings. Belt tension masks this. Some have addressed this by machining their own bushings, I did it with shim stock.
Tires and tire pressures have a strong effect on stability.
Currently, mine is stable in turns on the roads, and doesnt embarrass itself on the track. Still would like to try a steering damper on it. But thats not cheap for what might be a minor improvement at this point.
A whole lot of wiggle is there in the steering head actually. Lean in over in a turn and wiggle the bars to feel it. So tightening the steering head, better bars for better leverage, and a steering damper. I have not installed a steering damper myself.
The rear has oem slop in between the swing arm shaft and the inner swing arm bushings. Belt tension masks this. Some have addressed this by machining their own bushings, I did it with shim stock.
Tires and tire pressures have a strong effect on stability.
Currently, mine is stable in turns on the roads, and doesnt embarrass itself on the track. Still would like to try a steering damper on it. But thats not cheap for what might be a minor improvement at this point.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 145
Likes: 79
From: 58504
Hate to break the news to you, but does not sound like rear end touring wobble over-all, but the front and rear end not dampening with each other, nor pre-sag set up correctly, and maybe the head set bearing too loose as well.
Hence on Harely wobble, you will feel the back end starting to bend out and return back and kind of feels like the entire frame is bending in the middle.
Since the rear shocks where replaced, would start with the front end forks changing their fluid to balance out the front to back end dampening. I have not idea how the rear shocks are set up, so can't tell you want fluid weight you should use in the front forks.
Next, with the front and back dampening the same so the bike compresses and rebounds front and back in a corner the same, need to check the ride high/sag for front and back, to make sure you have that set up correctly both ends as well.
Once you have all this dialed in, then double check the wheel bearing front and back for excessive play, then swing arm for play as well.
Lastly, double check the head set bearings and make sure they are tightened correctly.
Hence on Harely wobble, you will feel the back end starting to bend out and return back and kind of feels like the entire frame is bending in the middle.
Since the rear shocks where replaced, would start with the front end forks changing their fluid to balance out the front to back end dampening. I have not idea how the rear shocks are set up, so can't tell you want fluid weight you should use in the front forks.
Next, with the front and back dampening the same so the bike compresses and rebounds front and back in a corner the same, need to check the ride high/sag for front and back, to make sure you have that set up correctly both ends as well.
Once you have all this dialed in, then double check the wheel bearing front and back for excessive play, then swing arm for play as well.
Lastly, double check the head set bearings and make sure they are tightened correctly.
My tire pressure is set correctly. Learned that mistake on other bikes.
Steering head bearings I have never addressed. Same with fork oil. Likely neither was done by the previous owner so that's also something to look at.
My sag is set correctly, did that first thing when I put the shocks on.
I think the right course here is to make sure the bushings, motor mounts, and suspension are all working together, then try the stabilizer.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 482
From: MA
do not put a stabilizer on without addressing numerous things first. you'll only mask the problem, and itll come back.
But when you do, Id go with "true track" made a huge difference in my bike.
First thing Id check is "fall away" (steering head) theyre usually too loose, especially on baggers, and itll create a wobble. give it a snug.
next is motor mounts. how many miles on them? they tend to break. replace with OEM.
next is tire pressure and tire condition...any scallops? spokes?
next is swing arm bushings.
I bet you'll find something here. At least an improvement. Then slap on a stabilizing link.
But when you do, Id go with "true track" made a huge difference in my bike.
First thing Id check is "fall away" (steering head) theyre usually too loose, especially on baggers, and itll create a wobble. give it a snug.
next is motor mounts. how many miles on them? they tend to break. replace with OEM.
next is tire pressure and tire condition...any scallops? spokes?
next is swing arm bushings.
I bet you'll find something here. At least an improvement. Then slap on a stabilizing link.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 23,399
Likes: 8,509
From: Spartan Country, Michigan
I experienced the wobble on my Street Glide shortly after I got it in 2014. Low miles, checked mounts, swingarm, and then bought the TruTrak. Installed that and never had another issue. So I would advise to check things out and if all ok, get the TruTrak and install.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,741
Likes: 1,599
From: Danbury CT
First thing I would do is check your tires. If they're flat in the middle with a little bit of cupping it'll do exactly what you say it's doing. If your tires have more than seven or eight thousand miles on them this definitely could be the problem. Friend had it on his 12 Street Glide and changing the rear tire and it was gone. I have a 19 Street Glide and was getting very squirrely in the turns. Just changed my tires at 9 thousand miles and it's gone.