Wheel Bearing Question
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 70
Likes: 6
From: Indiana
I used a pit posse type puller. I just tried to position it to fit in between the flanges. You could use small blocks to raise the puller a little.
I am not trying to take them out. I am trying to figure out why the bond that takes heat to remove wouldnt be as good or better than a pressed bearing.
I am not trying to take them out. I am trying to figure out why the bond that takes heat to remove wouldnt be as good or better than a pressed bearing.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 3,260
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From: oxford, pa
I did not do the sprocket bearings, only the two wheel bearings.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,466
Likes: 6,334
From: pacific northwest
Will have to look at it when it is off the bike and see how to remove them, they show a special tool to do it on a press but the tool is unavailable.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,466
Likes: 6,334
From: pacific northwest
When I have the wheel off will see if my bearing puller will work, if not may just take it to a auto machine shop to have pressed.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 14,866
Likes: 31,162
From: Whiskey Falls, Texas
OP, question for you how did you remove the bearing on the sprocket side, I did my fronts today and am going to do the rear soon but not sure my pit possee puller will work on the side with the torque rubber, also did you do the sprocket bearings and if so how did you remove and install them?
I pulled and installed all 6 bearings with my Pit Posse tool. It pulled and installed the new bearings on the rear wheel and the sprocket.
As far as the OP, bearings obviously aren't supposed to be loose. I'm with Cosmic. Safety should come first. I would probably scrap the wheel and start over, I'm not into "rigging stuff" when it comes to only 2 wheels holding me up.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,466
Likes: 6,334
From: pacific northwest
Several months ago I had a set of wheels for my first Ultra powder coated black, as i was blacking it out.
I pulled and installed all 6 bearings with my Pit Posse tool. It pulled and installed the new bearings on the rear wheel and the sprocket.
As far as the OP, bearings obviously aren't supposed to be loose. I'm with Cosmic. Safety should come first. I would probably scrap the wheel and start over, I'm not into "rigging stuff" when it comes to only 2 wheels holding me up.
I pulled and installed all 6 bearings with my Pit Posse tool. It pulled and installed the new bearings on the rear wheel and the sprocket.
As far as the OP, bearings obviously aren't supposed to be loose. I'm with Cosmic. Safety should come first. I would probably scrap the wheel and start over, I'm not into "rigging stuff" when it comes to only 2 wheels holding me up.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,900
Likes: 8,007
From: poway
609 is only effective from 0.001" to about 0.003" clearance. If more you probably should sleeve. There looks to be plenty of meat there.
One thing note is that it looks like you tried to set the bearing first and it's on the pulley side. IIRC the process requires that the brake side bearing get set first as it sets the rotor position in the center of the caliper. Pulley side should have the bearing set after the center spacer is installed.
For those using the Pit Posse wheel bearing tools. I would suggest care when installing the second bearing. For some reason, the put a raised lip on the outer part of the bearing race. With that lip, the installer can load the bearing sideways and kill the bearing life. It's possible that it's the reason for the one bearing coming loose in this wheel. On the second bearing install you need to reverse the bearing cap/drivers to the flat so that the second bearing position is set by the center spacer.
Not sure I'd stipple the inside of the race. It might work for some time.
The only wheel bearing I've shimmed was a 12 dyna rear wheel. It took a 0.030 shim to get snug. Found it when a buddy came over to fix a flat. Any told him to replace the wheel when the tire was worn out. Just as the tire wore out the bearing disintegrated.
You don't heat the bearing to get it out, you heat the wheel..
One thing note is that it looks like you tried to set the bearing first and it's on the pulley side. IIRC the process requires that the brake side bearing get set first as it sets the rotor position in the center of the caliper. Pulley side should have the bearing set after the center spacer is installed.
For those using the Pit Posse wheel bearing tools. I would suggest care when installing the second bearing. For some reason, the put a raised lip on the outer part of the bearing race. With that lip, the installer can load the bearing sideways and kill the bearing life. It's possible that it's the reason for the one bearing coming loose in this wheel. On the second bearing install you need to reverse the bearing cap/drivers to the flat so that the second bearing position is set by the center spacer.
Not sure I'd stipple the inside of the race. It might work for some time.
The only wheel bearing I've shimmed was a 12 dyna rear wheel. It took a 0.030 shim to get snug. Found it when a buddy came over to fix a flat. Any told him to replace the wheel when the tire was worn out. Just as the tire wore out the bearing disintegrated.
You don't heat the bearing to get it out, you heat the wheel..
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Banned
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 14,866
Likes: 31,162
From: Whiskey Falls, Texas
That is great to know, thank you. Am going to pull the rear wheel maybe next week and do all 6 bearings. Did the front today and they actually looked good at 12k miles but after a failure on the Low Rider of a rear bearing 150 miles from home I am installing all American made World Wide Bearings.