I was working on my bike, and removed one of the exhaust port studs on the front cylinder head. The flange nut was frozen to it. I have a replacement, but am looking for suggestions on the best way to install it. I was thinking about just putting an acorn nut on the end, install it using red loctite, and remove the nut. Anyone else have better suggestions?

 

Use double lock nuts. Anti-sieze on exposed threads when installed.

 

Acorn nut will work fine, double nuts will work fine.

Steve

 

Acorn might work, but i would be afraid the nut would get stuck on the studs and pull it back out when removing it.

I use 2 stock flanged exhuast nuts. Flange back to back so you can tighten them, drive it in with a socket and red locktite and than break the nuts loose with 2 wrenches...Its tight to do with head on the bike, but doable.

 

If you use an acorn nut put a small ball bearing inside of it . That allows the nut to come off easier.

 

The stud will bottom out in the acorn nut,may pull the stud back out.Double nut it.

 

When trying to change out my pipes after I heat wrapped them, I had to remove 3 of my exhaust port studs! 2 studs came out because the nut wouldn't come off and instead just unscrewed the whole damn stud, the other one broke off and nothing was working to get it out, including the ez-out removers. So I had to drill it out. About a 1/4 inch into it, the drill bit broke off in the stud! I learned later that it was because I was applying to much pressure and drilling at too high of speed. Then it became a huge disaster and I couldn't get through it. I tried a few different things and finally started makings some progress with some cobalt bits and then finally punched through with some new cobalt bits that were sharper. Eventually I got it all set and re-tapped the hole and put in some Heliciol replacement threads.

Now, problem is that the new hole I drilled and the new stud, didn't go in the exact same spacing and angle as the stock set, so the exhaust flange didn't fit. When I went to take the stud out and try to take the coils out and adjust the hole, the damn hole cracked, and actually broke off a small piece from the bottom of the exhaust port stud hole!

So how do I repair this? Is the exhaust port made of aluminum? JB Weld did not work.

This problem is on the rear exhaust port on the bottom rear stud hole. 2010 Sportster.

Seemed simple enough and turned into a disaster!!

 

The head is aluminum.

To fix it correctly,you need to remove the head and have a machine shop plug,drill and tap the hole or replace it.

 

thanks. I was afraid of that!

Hoping for a filler like JB Weld, but something that would actually work...

 

Sorry to hear it went bad for you, even seemingly simple extractions can get tricky and go sour. Unless you got someone to do the work for free, it might be cheaper to get a replacement head off Ebay or swap meet.