When I took delivery of my 08 E Glide Classic I had the dealer install the shorter factory air shocks. I have a good rep with this dealer and I trust them so when they said to run about 10 -12&nbsp\\;psi of air when riding solo and 16 - 18 psi when riding 2 up. I followed their directions. They also emphasized that this was a starting point and to be honest they were pretty close on the pressures.&nbsp\\;
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As you can tell by my other bikes I like a very low center of gravity on my bikes. The next logical move was to drop the rear end mechanically with one of the many kits that are available. i purchased one that had a range of 1 to 3" of drop. Very economical and very good workmanship so&nbsp\\;I was happy with the purchase. Installed the kit which really just relocates the bottom shock bolt back, readjusted the belt and off I went on a test ride.&nbsp\\; The bike now feels very responsive cornering and more stable at high speed with less effect from wind buffeting.
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Now my problem. When we ride 2 up the damn thing bottoms a lot. Our combined weight is 330# so I really doubt that is excessive.&nbsp\\; I have played with air pressure increasing it to 25# and if anything its worse.&nbsp\\; I hate like hell to lose the handling but I can't stand the bottoming out. Anybody out there have any insight? Whats your experience? Is the 1" drop&nbsp\\;the total&nbsp\\;you can get away with when riding 2 up? Will removing the drop kit and lowering the front end give me back the handling I desire?
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BTW, I'm running the stock wheel and tire combination.
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Thanks for your responses.
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Dano Wert

 

Put lowering blocks 1.5 or 2.5 on the 07 RG. Solo @ 2.5 drop was ok but still had to pump the rear OEM shocks UP+ - 2-up had to jack the air pressure WAY-UP and rode like a Hardtail. Moved it up to the 1.5 drop and it was ok 2-up loaded but still a bit harder ride.
Not being happy so looking at a air ride system now.
I like the low look and the improved handling but not 100% happy with the ride...

Also lowered the front with Progressive Springs.

 

I've tried numerous combinations of shocks and lowering kits and have found that my Ultra can only handle 1" of drop without excessive fender rub....it's also rubbing through your wiring harness....load up for a trip and forget it.

I finally gave up and got a set of Progressive 416's and haven't looked back

 

Anytime you make the angle of a air shock or coil over more, you loose more ability to handle the load.
For instance degrees:
10 - 15 - 20 - 25 - 30 - 35 - 40 - 45
% ability of shock:
.96 - .93 - .88 - .82 - .75 - .66 - .59 - .50
Now HD had already figured in the shock angle used for the shock they are using.
So if you angle the shock more (with a lowering kit) you get less ability of the shock to hold up the load.
Just FYI.
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Thanks for the comments.........
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Rocknrod - It has more to do with the length of the lever arm than it does the angle. Obviously changing the angle of the shock increases the lever reducing the torque requirement to move the shock.&nbsp\\; Thats not my problem I'm bottoming because of effective swing arm travel.&nbsp\\; I'm sure stiffer shocks wiould help but that would harshen the ride just like pumping up the air shocks does.
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The other posters seem to agree that 1" is about it because of clearance issues.&nbsp\\; Thats not what I wanted to hear but thats why I asked the question.&nbsp\\;
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Has anybody had success in lowering a EGC 2" without it bottoming out?&nbsp\\; If not did they raise the rear back up to the 1" drop&nbsp\\;and then did anyone drop the front 1"-1-1/2" to drop the enter CG down 1-1/2" based on the factory setup?
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Thanks for the comments and keep them coming.
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Dano

 

I'm assuming that by bottoming out, you mean that the tire and the fender are mating. You can run more air pressure, but the ride will suffer. I've run up to 45 lbs in mine when the wife and all her stuff are loaded on. Rides like crap, but it does not bottom out. (1 1/4 lowering kit)

 

The air pressures they told you seem more appropriate for the standard 13” length shocks. If you have the 12” versions like the Street Glide, they can handle (and require) a lot more air in them. When I still had mine, I ran about 25-30 solo, and upwards of 45-50 two up. If you read in the manual under the air specs for the shocks, you will see the difference in the recomended air pressure for the FLHX and FLHRS, vs all the other touring models. (thats the Street Glide and Road King Custom)

Just to clarifily, they put the 12” shocks on the bike right? AND you added lowering blocks?

My guess is, they forgot you had the shorter shocks when they were telling you how much air to run.

Did you keep the 13” shocks they took off?

To be honest, with the shorter shocks, PLUS the lowering kit, your begging for a lousy ride and constant bottoming. The only people I have ever seen endorse using lowering blocks WITH the shorter shocks, are the ones trying to sell you the lowering blocks. Everyone else pretty much says to pick one or the other, but not both. I think your in real danger of marring your tire.

If you still have your 13” shocks, I would put those on with the lowering blocks set to 1”. Thats what I have on my bike, and its a pretty good compramise of ride height and comfort. I also bottom less than when I had just the 12” shocks on there. With the 12”ers, I found that I had to have them pumped up so high to prevent bottoming, that the ride sucked. So I changed to the 13” shocks with the 1” lowering block.

 

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I have the 12" versions on right now. I added the lowering blocks this weekend.&nbsp\\; Set them blocks at 1" lower so now I'm 2" lower than stock. Like an idiot I gave the factory installed shocks to a buddy who needed to replace his.&nbsp\\; I will try running more air then.&nbsp\\; I'm at 24 psi right now.&nbsp\\; Prior to putting the lowering blocks on I only bottomed one time going over a speed bump too quick. I will check out my manual tonight.&nbsp\\; I did not realize that it had specs for the 12" shocks in it. But the street glide uses the 12" shocks so thats what I should be going by.&nbsp\\; Thanks for the insight.
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Keep the comments coming.
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Dano

 

I have the 12" shocks and I'm at 30 lbs for myself and 40-45 with momma &amp\\; her crap on the back.&nbsp\\; The ride is acceptable but not awsome.&nbsp\\; It is the price to pay to get down low.&nbsp\\; You could always do what I did to my old Sporty, pull the shocks, put on a set of solid struts, and run about 5 lbs of air in the back tire!&nbsp\\; Worked when I was in my 20s, don't think I could ride it today, lol.

 

Actually, another option you could look at is putting some length back into your suspension, then lowering your seat. If you have the stock EG Classic Seat, your sitting up pretty tall. Changing to another seat could drop you an inch or more easily. My Mustang 2 piece is quite a bit lower than any other seat Ive tried.

Thats the Mustang TWO peice, the one piece sits closer to stock. C&C seats would be another good option. It looks like you and your wife are not what anyone could consider “large” people, so I would think you could get by with a lower profile seat and still be comfortable.