Looking at all the different ways to build my first motor.. been riding for 20 years and always just kept the bikes stock.. from sport bikes to Harley's.. I now own a 2010 streetglide.. and a 2003 Fatboy that used to be my pops.. I have had several bikes over the years.. I'm trying to build a torque monster that is still reliable for touring.. any input from experience will be appreciated..

 

At first I was looking at the biggest bang for my buck! But now it seems I'm leaning more towards doing everything once.. or mabye even a crate motor.. with a budget going from 2000 to now considering around 6500 give me some input on what some of you guys have done... Was looking at the 117 build... until I got a quote for it and seems Im pretty close to crate motor pricing.. i have now

Vance & Hines power duals with outlaw mufflers..
Stage 1 air cleaner
Power vision tuner
Se compensator
adj Coil overs
That's about it for performance.. everything else is cosmetic..

 

Probably the "cheap" build would be to bore to a 107 with cams and headwork to match. Next step up is a 110drop on kit. Then to get into 117 ,124 territory you need to break out the big bucks...as you found out. Look into doing a 107...lots of them out there making good reliable power

 

Thanks for the reply.. that's originally what I was going to do.. Was a 110 . I. have done a little research but I'm wanting some expert advice.. I know without a doubt I want to do the crank and timken on whatever I end up doing.. I'm leaning towards just doing a 124 lc s&s motor or a Harley 120 .. what's most important is reliable power .. my goals are 130/135 but would take all the torque I could get ..

Seems the 120 is right around there.. I like the woods 408-6 cam seems to fit my riding style.. so with that as a starting point.. what else needs to be done to make it reliable power.. ??
My thoughts
120 motor
Change springs to beehive as I've heard is an issue
58mm tb
Change lifters (need input)
Woods 408-6 cam
Fueling cam plate and pump
Weld crank and timken conversion
v&h power duals
Power vision tuner
Upgrade clutch..
Se comp

Thoughts on this set up? Any suggestions on how to make it better? Or do while in it? Or would the 124 lc be a better route .. it seems I can do the 120 like that for 7500 or little less.. and have around 9000 in the LC with clutch tb and install and Dyno.. with crank welded.. which one would last longer? Is there a better route I should consider?
​​​

 

Thanks for the reply.. that's originally what I was going to do.. Was a 110 . I. have done a little research but I'm wanting some expert advice.. I know without a doubt I want to do the crank and timken on whatever I end up doing.. I'm leaning towards just doing a 124 lc s&s motor or a Harley 120 .. what's most important is reliable power .. my goals are 130/135 but would take all the torque I could get ..

Seems the 120 is right around there.. I like the woods 408-6 cam seems to fit my riding style.. so with that as a starting point.. what else needs to be done to make it reliable power.. ??
My thoughts
120 motor
Change springs to beehive as I've heard is an issue
58mm tb
Change lifters (need input)
Woods 408-6 cam
Fueling cam plate and pump
Weld crank and timken conversion
v&h power duals
Power vision tuner
Upgrade clutch..
Se comp

Thoughts on this set up? Any suggestions on how to make it better? Or do while in it? Or would the 124 lc be a better route .. it seems I can do the 120 like that for 7500 or little less.. and have around 9000 in the LC with clutch tb and install and Dyno.. with crank welded.. which one would last longer? Is there a better route I should consider?
​​​

 

Just build a 124 with S&S crank, my friend. The crank from S&S doesn't need any more prepping. Keep the compression reasonable and much more importantly, the CCP 195-205.

Skip the 120 motor from SE.

Or, build a stout 107 as it's the much more affordable way. You can get reliable 120/120 rather easily from a 107. But honestly, you seem worried about the crank, so I'd just do it once and do it right with a 124" built from your cases. If you go that route, DON'T fall into the trap of trying to squeeze the motor for all it's worth. A lazy 124" is a fun motor to tour with.

 

My fault let me try and clear this up..
120 hd motor 2017 model doing these upgrades now to it before I purchase it.
​​​​​​Woods 408-6 cams
Hl2t lifters
pushrods
Beehives
Clutch
crank welded
Timken conversion
Power vision license
fueling plate and pump
Arlen Ness breather
58mm tb
Installed and Dyno tuned 6500otd he keeps my 96ci

S&S motor lc 124 6500
Would still need
Tb
Clutch
Breather
tuner
Install and Dyno assuming closer to 9500
i keep my 96ci

Also quoted 124 build on my motor at 8500 otd
Use my 96ci also quoted 8500 on a117 different builder

Would it be worth the extra 3000 or 2000 to have the S&S either way? Or can this be a strong reliable motor the (120) if so..what if anything all would it take other than listed?
Hopefully it makes more sense now

 

Like you I wanted a more torquey and reliable tourer. I just had Hillside Machine do a 103" to 110" conversion on a '16 FLHTK. $6k got me 111-hp, 131-lbs of torque and a new battery. Stock crank with his Stage II head work. Maybe call Scott and price it out. You can also browse the "Dyno numbers for baggers" thread above for ideas.

 

Thanks I appreciate it!

 

I upgraded 96" in my 2011 RK not quite a couple years back, and in hindsight I would've done some things differently for a little more bang for the buck. Can get a nice bump for not too much outlay if willing and able to do the work yourself. If I had to do over again I'd be deciding between three basic options, depending on budget and what I'm trying to achieve.

Option 1: find a like new set of 103 take off pistons/cylinders and heads--also need comp releases if not included (my 2011 already had wiring harness in place and I just plugged in and switched them on in ECM tune, but ymmv). Send heads off to big boyz or comparable for mild/street porting and shave 0.020-0.030" or so depending on your altitude and cam choice, and hone cylinders and install new rings. A low/mid range cam w/bearings and lifters--depending on base curve of cam and amount milled off heads could reuse of stock pushrods. If really on a budget Andrews 57 cams and Competition Cams chevy lifters would keep total cost incl. machine work to around $1200-1300 assuming one does their own assembly and doesn't pay too much for take off parts.

Option 2: if I wanted more of a hot rod but still on a budget, and plan to ride mostly solo and don't mind sacrificing some lower rpm cruising, I'd do as above except with a hotter, higher rpm range cam a la SE 259 or S&S 570, adj pushrods, more aggressive head porting and shave 0.030-0.040"+, performance valve springs, and something like Evo Industries 30 tooth primary kit to lower gear ratios. Depending on preference and exact cam choice could do 30 tooth final drive front sprocket as well. Not as nice cruising over 70 mph but who wants to cruise interstates anyway, and properly tuned should smoke many larger builds in anything but a higher gear roll on situation. Total around $2000-2200.

Option 3: S&S crate engine, 111 for longevity/cruising or 124 for ultra performance. I believe around $6-7K(?) w/req'd throttle body, and include good cranks w/timken, upgraded cam plate/high volume oil pump, perf cams, adj pushrods, etc, etc, and 2 year warranty. Personally I don't see the point of upgrading an HD motor to this level with a turnkey option available at this price, but that's JMO.

All assume upgraded intake and exhaust, and performance tuner. Boring/aftermarket pistons for add'l 4-7 cubes not really worth it IMO, but as they say there's no replacement for displacement.