Seth DID offer the LA chopper kit and the Burly kit. I called LA and they said that they really only intend their kit to be used when riding one up. I called Burly and they recommend removing the boots. I asked if dirt would ruin the seals. They said, "Eventually, yes, but lowering blocks are just meant to be a cheap, temporary fix." So, I really didn't see any reason to take Seth up on either of those.

He also offered to get me HD or Progressive shocks at a discount...which was actually a very good discount, but I was able to get a new set of HD shocks just a little cheaper on my own.

I guess what bothers me the most is that I saw the original poster's pictures before ordering the kit and called Road6 to specifically ask if the contact would cause the boots to tear. They told me that they would not tear. It's just a bummer that my bike is less than 6 months old and both boots are already ripped...and there isn't anything anyone can do about it because the boots are not replaceable.

Guys, I still have the kit. When I jack the bike up to put on the new shocks, I am first going to remove the boots from my stock shocks and then install the lowering blocks once again to see if they actually rub against the shock piston. IF, I end up with metal-to-metal, then it's obvious why the boots tore.

By the way...once again...it's NOT the BOLT that tore the shock boot...it's the top edge of the lowering block (when the bike is lowered and everything goes into place) that smashes the boot against the shock. If I thought it was the hex bolt, I would have replaced the bolt with a round, socket-head bolt.

 

Well folks, here are pictures I promised. This is with the lowering kit installed on the 1" position. Hopefully, you can see that there IS metal-to-metal contact between the lower portion of the shock's piston and the top edge of the lowering block.

The other pictures are just to let you know that they were installed correctly. The spacer is shown at the top, and yes, the bike was lowered before all bolts were tighten so yes, the large steel circular piece welded to the back of the lowering block was seated firmly against the swingarm. In fact, the block doesn't make contact with the shock UNTIL the bike is lowered. Just saying this because a guy here referred to me as a "********" (very colorful) for even thinking that someone could actually rip a shock boot with these things. Heck, there's even a mark on the shock where the block hit it!

 

hold on now u need to re read my post i DIDNT call u a ******** what i said was i dont mean to sound like a ********.

 

Ahh....right you are. I'm very sorry.

 

thank u very much.

 

To lower the bike almost an inch, try Harley's Profile Low shocks. I use them and did not notice any ride difference, plus they will fit properly.

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

 

Just wanted to find out if you ever installed the Road 6 Custom lowering kit on your 09 FLHR. I have the same bike and was thinking of doing the same myself.

Thanks

 

ditto.

I relocated the harness to run over the fender instead of under it. also pulled the harness clamp.

 

I went out and got extra spacers...the kit comes with some for the top, I added some to the bottom.

 

or you guys could just give ron a call at bitchin baggers and send him your shocks, get them back in a few days and be very happy

i sent mine out to him and had him do them to 11" for me and my wifes weight.. bike looks great and rides alot better then when i had lowering blocks on.

and its cheap!