Change your own oil. Invest in a service manuel. Most of the basic stuff isn't very difficult to do and you'll get a lot more gratification out of working on your own bike. Ask around and find a good indy shop for stuff you don't feel comfortable with. A dealer that jacks you around with something as petty as what kind of oil you use, shouldn't be touching your bike.

 

[QUOTE=drewski1325;5496251]The Mobile 1 15W-50 meets and exceeds HD's recommendations. It has an API CD rating which HD sez is okay. I've ran it in my '97 FLSTF since '97 with no problems. I like using it cause anywhere I go is a Wal Mart that sells it if I need a quart. The V-Twin 20W-50 is much diffi to find. Mobile 1 tech's recommended the 15W-50 for air cooled V-twins till they developed the V-Twin 20W-50.[/Q
Exactly. Like where exactly does it say you need v-twin oil. V-twin oils were originally formulated to meet a JASO spec,where the oil is shared between the clutch,tranny and engine. You don't need a v-twin oil,you need a 20w-50.
V-twin oils aren't even what's best for our separate fluid bikes. Friction modifiers are a big reason why engines are easily turning over 200000 miles.
Just because it has a motorcycle on it doesn't mean it's the best thing on the planet. Amsoil for years didn't make a v-twin oil because their 20w-50 was fine. They changed tge label.
And if anyone looked up tge specs and differences between mobil 1 15w-50 and their v-twin stuff,on paper they are almo identcal except the 15w-50 has more viscosity improvers in it so the viscosity index is slightly different.
The misinformation thrown about in this thread is hillarious. I cannot believe some people actually posted the crap I read.
Op. Keep using whatever oil you want. You dont need a v-twin oil to maintain warantee.
If there was a warantee claim Harley has to prove the oil you used caused the failure,which will be impossible.
And just to be clear,automotive oils will contain molybdenum disulfide. That it a friction modifier and absolutely great stuff. Now the v-twin oils contain none of it because of the clutch in shared sump bikes. the v-twin oils contain slightly elevated levels of zddp,an anti-wear agent. The moly in oil works better than zddp does as far as wear control.
Moly creates a barrier that eliminates wear at start up and maintains that barrier. Zddp doesn't even activate til it gets up to operating temp.
Any 20w-50 will do just fine. Forget paying double for oil. It's not cheap insurance.
Buy a quality oil and as part of a maintenance routine CHANGE it. That and that alone will keep your bike living a long life.
Too many people believing the advertising and the salesman. Hillarious

 

I'd get it in writing. As ALL have stated above, they can't do that.
But if they say that, get it in writing . . . You know, for the law suit.

The oil you use DOES have to meet or exceed the factory SAE ratings (which all the above mentioned oils do)

Ya can't run the cheap grocery store Havoline 10/30 or something. They would have you there.

 

I think the proof would be Harley recommends a cd rated oil of grade 20w-50 during the summer months, and 10w-40 at 40F and below. So on a technicality, they are correct to say you are using the wrong oil. (15w-50) Now I think Mobil 1 is good ****, and you can use it if you want, but asking them to put it in is not recommended. Years ago we used air craft oil and mixed gear oil with it in the crankcase. We would put Type F in the Primary and Mobil 1 gear oil in the tranny. No harm no foul. Except the Type F leaked out. When I went to Mobil 1 15w-50 in my EVO my base gaskets leaked. (years ago) Now in my EVO I use HD 360, Formula + in the primary and tranny. In the twin cam all amsoil products.

 

Bringin it back from the dead!!!