How do you fix a loose shifter shaft?
#1
How do you fix a loose shifter shaft?
Either the shaft is worn, or the chrome inner primary is, or both.
The bike only has 22,000 miles on it, and the shifters are rattling around like crazy.
The splines aren't loose, it's the shaft that's moving around in the hole through the primary. I greased it once, and it does tighten it up, but not for long.
Has anyone had this problem?
The bike only has 22,000 miles on it, and the shifters are rattling around like crazy.
The splines aren't loose, it's the shaft that's moving around in the hole through the primary. I greased it once, and it does tighten it up, but not for long.
Has anyone had this problem?
#2
#3
The play comes in from too much slop between the bushings and the shaft, (no doubt you knew that). Could be worn bushings (there are two bushings in there), or worn shaft, or both. The above post suggested cut-up beer can or o-rings. IF there is enuff play there, you could make a shim type bushing insert from cut up beer can, that's easy enuff. The o-ring idea may help for a while, but I don't think you'll get them to stay in place or last for very long. That's a temporary fix at best, unless your play is end to end movement. In that case, I think I would use a round 'washer type' shim to take up slop.
The only real fix is to replace the bushings, shaft, or both. That isn't terribly dificult either, provided you use proper method. You don't need any specialty tools, but it would be much easier if the inner primary case was removed. A shaft of the correct diameter can be used to drive the old bushings out. Then you can push/tap the new bushings in. Might want to use a small piece of aluminum scrap between the tool/hamer and the bushing to reduce damage to the new bushing. If it does happen to nick/ding the new bushing, just clean up with light sand paper or emery cloth around edges. Replace shaft if needed when replacing bushings, so you don't prematurely wear the new bushings down.
The only real fix is to replace the bushings, shaft, or both. That isn't terribly dificult either, provided you use proper method. You don't need any specialty tools, but it would be much easier if the inner primary case was removed. A shaft of the correct diameter can be used to drive the old bushings out. Then you can push/tap the new bushings in. Might want to use a small piece of aluminum scrap between the tool/hamer and the bushing to reduce damage to the new bushing. If it does happen to nick/ding the new bushing, just clean up with light sand paper or emery cloth around edges. Replace shaft if needed when replacing bushings, so you don't prematurely wear the new bushings down.
Last edited by CroK; 09-26-2009 at 09:48 AM.
#4
#5
The only real fix is to replace the bushings, shaft, or both. That isn't terribly dificult either, provided you use proper method. You don't need any specialty tools, but it would be much easier if the inner primary case was removed. A shaft of the correct diameter can be used to drive the old bushings out. Then you can push/tap the new bushings in. Might want to use a small piece of aluminum scrap between the tool/hamer and the bushing to reduce damage to the new bushing. If it does happen to nick/ding the new bushing, just clean up with light sand paper or emery cloth around edges. Replace shaft if needed when replacing bushings, so you don't prematurely wear the new bushings down.
You mention in the above post, I have quoted, that "it would be much easier if the inner primary case was removed".
That really is my biggest problem. Removing and reinstalling the inner primary might make removal and reinstalling the bushng easier, but it is a big PITA that may be a lot harder than the difficulty of changing them with the primary on the bike.
Unless I'm missing something, I'll try it with the primary on the bike.
I'd appreciate any insight from you on this CroK.
#6
#7