I have a very similar work and play. It's just a little shorter and the garage is not separate from the coach. Wife and I like it. We have had many campers over the years and this one works the best for us. I do need to figure out a better loading and unloading process . My trike drags when it breaks over the ramp most of the time. I raise the tongue up as high as I can or try to park where the ramp is on an little higher ground or bank,to over come this. I thought about getting a arched ramp and add to the ramp door. Have you had any problems with this?

 

Here is my toy hauler.

 

Fabricator Which model is that?

 

I have not experienced this problem with an Limited FLHTK, a Heritage FLSTCI, or a Springer FXSTS... i usually load & unload mine while the trailer is still attached to the truck, for stability.

I have seen places that make vehicle loading ramps, that fit under the drop down door, raising it off the ground, to decrease the angle at the top... unfortunately, with a trike you would need 3, and they aren't always cheap.

Race ramps probably makes the lightest set, but also a little pricey...

 

25’ long.
It’s a 2011 Work and Play WPT 25 ULA

 

2017
WPT 25 WAB. I measured it last fall, it is 29'8" from the end of the tongue ( ball) to the back bumper

 

I noticed a wheel chock for your bike. What are you using? And is it loose on the floor or do you have some kind of quick mount for it. I have not hauled my ultra limited yet . I do not use a wheel chock for the trike.

 

I don't mean to change the topic of this post,but I am ready to get out and use my toy hauler. I just need the snow to go away and a little warmth to come along.

 

I use a wheeldock chock. In the pic, it was loose, up against the wall. I use 1 set of straps to pull the bike forward into the chock (between the bike & chock) and a 2nd set of straps to pull the bike forward to the mounts in the floor (keeps the loose chock against the wall). I wouldn't need the second set of straps if I attached the wheeldock to the floor, but I have 3 bikes that all need a little different spacing, depending on what bike I take...

The 3rd set of straps I use as they recommend. One on the left side (passenger peg/floorboard best) I hook one and take it over the seat and then slightly forward. It balances the bike and keeps it form from tipping. None of the straps compress the suspension to a big degree, allowing the bike to ride on it's own suspension. They discuss this method on their website.

And for whatever reason, I will also add two straps to the rear of the bike, and then to the rear floor mounts, to guarantee no side to side movement....