just looking for a generel time frame from some that have done there own work, and never opened up a v twin before. I have the complete hd stage 4 here, auto decompresser kit, and wiring harness for it, super tuner software, beaddy tool with 168 bearings.

 

are you using black or chrome wrenches? i hear the black is wayyyy faster......just kidding..i have no idea.

 

If you are doing a complete 103 including cams, a good experienced tech can do that in 8 to 10 hours depending on how much extra "add ons" he has to remove. I usually take a bit more time than that as I am not getting paid flat rate.

For a first timer, if everything goes well, you have al the tools you need, and you stay away from the beer, you can do it easily in a weekend if you stay with it. But, it can take just one little thing to extend the project, like shooting a piston pin clip across the garage and having no idea where it went.

Don't ask me how I know...

 

thanks for the info, I thought 4 days 6hours per day going to be taking my time, cylinders, pistons, heads seem ok per manual, just the cam install sounds tricky, but it may be easy once I have it all laid out. Still unsure what lifters to use?, everybody on here seems to have there own opinion on them.and I haven't read in the manual about the cam spacers, or shims, gotta get that figured out.

 

I agree with Dalton for a novice. It still takes me a full 10-12 hour day provided Murphy's law doesn't bite me in the *** and that is a rare occassion.

As for lifters, if you can get a set of the "old" 99Bs, they are pretty good. Apparently there has been a recent change in suppliers and the quality of the 99Bs has suffered. They "new" 99Bs will carry the same PN but come from a different manufacturer. I have photos that illustrate the differences but they each exceed the 19.5KB forum limit. You would need to know what to look for at the dealer and open each lifter to verify you were gettng the "old" 99Bs.

Another option is the Comp Cams small block chevy lifter but only the ones from Delphi. There are several sources that supply Comp Cams and if you don't specify Delphi, the quality just isn't there.

Then there is the creme dela creme, the new Woods lifters which are precision pieces of hardware, pricey but the best currently available IMHO.

 

How many miles on the bike? Be sure to at least check the crank run out. Some think it is a good idea to have the crank welded, trued and balanced when going up in power.

 

If not going with an overly agressive, .575 lift or less cam, the stock HD lifters will suffice. When changing cams, I always recommend changing lifters. Another option for a very good lifter is the Headquarters Black Ops lifters, not so pricey as the Woods and work very well.

Another poster recommended having crank work done. This is one of those items that you never know, but most that build 103-107 engines do not do and failures are rather rare, although I would check the runout to ensure it is in spec. I have built many 107's without reworking the crank and have yet to have one come apart. There are thousands of built engines out there running around on stock cranks without issues. There are different recommendations for over the top builds or 113 and bigger.

You did not mention the year of the bike, but said you have B168 bearings so I am assuming it is an 07 or newer. If that is the case, the cam gear spacer needed is not difficult to determine upon reassembly using the instructions in the manual.

If you need any help once you are into it, drop me a PM and I will send you my phone number.

 

My bike is in the shop as we speak for a 103"/cam install. Dealer quoted me 10.5 hrs@$70hr labor. This includes remove/replace cams, adding hd clutch spring and 5k (now 6k) check-up. I am having an independant machinist/porter doing bore-hone and heads (full porting, valve job w/1.900 intakes, guides/seals, CC'ing and CR's) for $570..

 

Bikes a 2010 ultra classic. I put 7,000 miles on it, done 4 oil changes thus far, try to keep things right. stage 4 has the 260 cams, .609 lift, lotsa duration. I was going to go with a different cam, but decided to let it be.funny none of the directions mention changing lifters, or even piston pin bearings, seems only right going all new like this.

 

There are no piston pin bearings, they ride directly in the piston parent metal and in rod bushings.

Lifter rollers will take a "set" to a cam and wear in, cheap insurance to replace them when chaning a cam.

I would seriously investigate a different cam as the 260 is more of a high end/hp cam and not what you would usually see used in a bagger. Many others out there that would have much more midrange/low end grunt that is typical of what bagger riders are usually looking for.