To cam or not to cam
 

First off, I have done my research on this subject, but am still confused. Have an 06 EG TC88 with a K&N filter, V&H Monster Ovals and a V&H FuelPak. Getting close to cam chain tensioner shoes replacement time (25K). Thinking this is the best time to upgrade cams.

Question 1: Do I need to replace cam plate to change to hydraulic tensioner and 255's?

Question 2: Do I have to replace pushrods and lifters?

Question 3: Do they have FuelPak maps for cam upgrade, or will I have to go with a SERT, Power Commander, etc. for more versatility?

Question 4: What cam should I go with?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Ol Blue,
Just finished two cam conversions, mine and friends. Both 06 Road Kings. We both went with the Herko kit and Andrews 21N cams.

You have to replace the cam plate to switch to hydraulic cams.

You do not have to replace push rods and lifters. However you will have to go in through the rockers like we did if you want to reuse your push rods.

I do not know if your fuel management system will support your new cam choice. As far as what cams to go with depends on what your looking for.

Hope this helps.

Don

SE255 cams won't fit your bike even with the hydraulic tensioner kit, as the inner-bearings are the wrong size. IMO the closest you could come to SE255's would be the Andrews conversion kit and 48N cams, which are loosely patterned after the SE255's and have similar performance characteristics.

If your lifters are healthy, i.e. not making odd noises, they can be reused. OTOH if I had 100k on my bike I would probably go ahead and change them. Mine had 25k when I changed cams two years ago, and a knowledgeable tech I know kept his originals at 60k. OTOH I would definitely change the inner-cam bearings to Torrington B148 or the new SE #24017-10, which are the same part.

Stock pushrods can be used for all bolt-in cams. If you DIY it is cheaper to re-use the stockers but will add a couple of hours to the job, not to mention a bit of additional aggravation, as one or two of the left-rear rocker bolts are hard to access. OTOH if you are paying someone to do the job it may be a wash considering adjustable pushrods cost ~$150 and there will be a higher labor charge for the alternative. I did my cam job myself and "went through the rockers" (re-used stock pushrods).

I would opt for something besides the Fuelpak.

If you're keeping stock compression and don't want to lose low-end torque, go with something like the 48N (with conversion kit) or the 21(N). Anything else is likely to shift your torque curve to the right, and which cam set is right for you depends on where you want the power delivery. If you value low-end torque and want to retain stock compression your choices are much more limited.

Are You Sure?
 

I have seen cam chain tensioners go much farther than 25k. I had a 2000 that had 40k on the tensioners and they still looked good. Might want to take a look at them before you make the big outlay. If you just want to do the cam thing and the tensioners are a good excuse, you might want to look at T-Mans TR-525. It's a conversion cam, so it requires a late model cam plate and oil pump, which gives you the hydraulic tensioners. Definately change out the inner cam bearings no matter which way you go on the cam. I would suggest you look at the new Revolution Performance EMS for a fuel controller. I have heard nothing but good about it and I am going to install one on my scoot this week. Anyway you go, good luck!

29,000 on my 04 RK and tensioners looked real good, I was really surprised. I still them replaced anyway. I put a HQ -0034 cams, Black-op lifters, inner bearings, heavier oil pump spring and ajustable push rods. I shoud say my buddy did the work not me. Supposed to get in the 40's today,here in Ohio, Going to try and take it for a spin. At the rate my tensioners were wearing I could have got another 129,000 miles out of them.