slightly cracked throttle prevents pops

I know intake or exhaust leaks can cause the pop, but I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and got no idle fluctuation.

I don't hear any hissing at the heads, and in all honesty I don't know how to check for leaks at the exhaust joints.

was excited about this bike, now I'm getting sick of it already. I got gremlins, always have...should probably just own a honda.

 

Hi there, perhaps I can help a little..

The map you installed was for big bore kits? That means ( in 2000 ) that you would have to have the bigger RED injectors. So yeah it'll run worse and leaner without those if you've got a stock 88.

No if your plugs read OK, ( light tannish brown,) and your pinging is that limited as you say, you haven't "hurt" anything. After all it's been around for 12 years. You need to map it for 88", 204 cam, AC and exhaust. That's it.

If you can't map it, go back to a stock air cleaner element and you'll richen it up a bit.

Stop worrying so much!

 

I was wondering about that!

Actually...injectors are red. They also look really, really new. Much cleaner than surrounding parts. I cleaned up the throttle body and surrounding area when I first got the bike and remember thinkin "man, those injectors sure look new."

Then I read that the older ones were black...but these are def red. See pic. Right?

If they are the newer red, which I understand to squirt more fuel, could that explain why it'd run "good enough" with the opened up intake and exhaust?

But that's my point...if it ran so well w/stock map...why remap at all?

Oh, I did get the occasional "dieseling" sound right at takeoff sometimes...but I think that was more me just getting used to where the proper revs are in first gear. If I was goosing it to take off, no noise.

But yeah...it would seem to me that if a system was running so lean that damage was imperative, it'd display at least some not-so-subtle signs?

Don't have the stock A/C. Came with a SE, and I put a Ness on there cuz I liked the cleaner look. I guess I can put the football back on to decrease air intake slightly?

Easy to say, hard to do. I love having a Harley. It's the only release I get anymore. Not gonna get into sob stories but **** aint good right now, and when I get on a bike it all goes away. I even enjoy wrenching when I know what I'm doing. Need a manual for sure.

But yes, worrying less would be good.

 

Yep, those are the Stage II injectors alright...so you're getting a little more fuel. The A/C is by far and away the easiest solution until you get on your feet however.

As far as idle goes, I set both cold and regular idle screws to about where I feel they're right, then shut off the motor, pull the 5 amp and 15 amp fuses out of their holders, ( under the right side cover,) wait 15 seconds and stick 'em back in.

MM Injection cold idle is never dead on, ( at least with mine,) but the hot idle is a perfect 1050. If yours is idling like a shovel, pick it up a notch. Too low an idle can hurt your motor over time.

Best of luck, the 99 - 02 motors have the hot forged cranks and Timken Lefty bearings, they're pretty much bulletproof. ( JUst turned 91,000 on mine)

 

A little confused again. Went and read around and it appears that the "black" injectors were stock on the evo M-M FI systems, but "red" were factory OEM on the 99-01 TC M-M systems?

what do you mean about the A/C? Going back to stock?

Can't. Actually DID have the stock A/C bracket but it's cracked, bad, at one of the breather spacers.

If I wanted to do this the "right" way ie using a tach, could I just upload a zero map to the PCII, leave it connected to use as a tach and go from there? the PC isn't making any changes with a zero map, right?

What about removing the IAC connector, all that other stuff that's in some of the online how-tos?

Actually...when I fire it up the idle "swells" for a few seconds then drops down into a 950-1000 range (according to the PC software. I don't have a tach.)

It really does seem like this is one solid motor. I mean...it's showing 75k on the odometer and aside from a tiny bit of top-end clatter it runs like a brand new motor. I'm really impressed (but I do kinda miss my Evo where I at least knew what i was doing and knew what most things meant when I heard / read them.)

 

Here's what you do.

Get a Vance and Hines fuel pak ( the clear cover one, you can probably find a used one cheap and can simply change the settings) they are very easy. Then email V&H with your set up and they will send you a link to a map. I just did a SE 95" big bore kit and they sent me a map for my fuelpak and the thing runs great! No coughing, backfire, popping, doesn't run lean or rich, the plugs are a light tan and the performance improvement is very noticeable. The power commander could maybe get me dialed in a bit better but right now I'm happy. I think you should try it since your motor isn't anything radical.
Only hitch would be if a fuelpak didn't work with MM fuel injection. Not sure about that one.

 

Edit: FuelPak is Delphi only. There are others just like it, though. Dobeck TFI / RevTech DFO, Ness, etc...

I wouldn't mind the simplicity of a pot-based tuner that feels more like tuning a carb...

 

OOPS! On my 98 Evo I went to Stage II and they installed red injectors, leading me to believe that red injectors were Stage II in Twin Cams. They're also in my '00 FLTRSEI 95" Stage II from the factory. Sorry if I mislead you.

The AC stock comment refers to going back to a stock element to reduce the air flow, thereby increasing the fuel ratio. Even if you went to EBAY and spent $20 you'll find someone getting rid of a stock element, I'm sure. ( Even a dealer might have a used one lying around.)

Still the easiest solution for the moment IMO.

Zero map should change nothing as you suggest.

My bike idle "swells" on cold startup up too, on hot it just starts at 1050 and stays there.

 

got a line on a PCIII USB for $100, which seems like a perfectly reasonable price. Dude at DynoJet said "PCII will get you by but is light years behind the newer modules."

Gonna cough up the $100, unless someone here says "nah f that don't bother."

so just to clarify, it's OK to use the PC as a tach for doing the TPS reset? As long as a zero map is loaded?

 

Got a pciii USB last year for 100 bux. Works great. Go for it.
I wonder how much more I would get from a newer unit as I don't have O2 sensors or Cat to deal with...