trailer in a bag
#11
07-08-2011, 01:51 PM
I would mind so much the style of that particular trailer. The only thing I don't like about any trailer is the size of the wheels. Those 12" wheels are doing some serious RPM’s when towing at highway speeds. I've burnt up 2 wheel bearings on the smaller wheels. If you drive 45 mph it wouldn't be so bad.
#12
07-08-2011, 04:50 PM
I recently rented a U-Haul trailer to tow my Harley from Florida to Tennessee. They charged me for 4 days even though I used only 3 days. The cost was $168 which figures out to about $42 per day. Wish I could rent one for $15 per day.
#13
07-09-2011, 05:41 AM
Was it for a one way trip? They charge for 24 hr periods, not "days", and the $15/day rate is local.
#14
07-09-2011, 02:37 PM
I just used a 2011 trailer in a bag to transport a road king classic for about a 1,600 mile trip. These were my findings..
Easy to store:
Fits in the trunk of some cars or 18 inch X 18 inch by 5 foot vertical space like a condo locker/garage corner like the dead space between garage door rail edge and side wall or maybe plastic outdoor storage trunk or larger indoor furniture trunk.
Construction:
Black painted hollow but thick walled and heavy weight 2in./by 2 in. ? steel for main frame that looks like the class II trailer hitch metal, aluminum rails and finally the condor chock. The pieces are heavy so it may be difficult for some to handle, no big deal but still about 35 pounds for the heavier pieces. You would want to assemble and take-apart as close as possible to the car. If in a condo I would suggest using the luggage or grocery cart. You could probably use the provided bag and a hotel luggage cart to pass a lobby and get it into a hotel room or condo quietly. The loaded bag will not hold the weight of contents.
The wiring and lights are just simple standard trailer lights but I was surprised to find mine had LED bulbs installed.
The 8 inch rims have tires with a diameter of about 17+ inches..So if you have a car with 17 inch rims the edge of that rim would be the end of the rubber. The rubber patch that touches pavement is about 4 ½ inches wide. Each D-rated 8 ply tire is rated for 1,045 pounds and stamped high speed. Note that not all trailer tires on the market are D-rated or 8 ply and few are rated for that weight. Most have much lower ratings.
The tires are Load Star brand. The rims are imported. The trailer tongue is also stamped as imported.
The tires are balanced. Pre and post tire tread measurements seem to show tread wear will be about 10,000 miles with rotations. But this is truely just a guess at this time.
The bearings appear to be L44643 with a 1”X 1” 4 lug spindle.
At each fueling the hubs and tires were no warmer than the car tires.
The cross bar(front tie down bar) is heavy but hollow and probably measures 1in.X1in thick. The loops on the end (one on each end) seems to be a chain link welded diagonally into hole of bar. The bar is held to trailer frame holder by two Pins. Each Pin has one clip.
The rear of trailer has 4 loops(two on each side) that appear to be very heavy duty chain links welded to the wheel axle bar.
The ramp must be removed during transport, and stored… tossed in trunk.
Overall the trailer appears very strong and unique in its ability to be stored.
You MUST pull trailer light posts(2) from holder in rear axle in order to load and unload or you risk tripping of over lights and license plate. yes, almost every state requires a license plate.
Requirement:
The trailer does NOT include the floor boards or Condor chock.
In my opinion trying to load or unload a heavy bike without the floorboard option allows ZERO room for error, requires total commitment/trust and no room for loss of concentration. The video person must have practiced thousands of times.
The floor board option is a must in my opinion unless you are very tall and ride a very low or light bike. Reason : Your feet are at least 8 to 10 inches off the ground and you only have one chance to place your feet on the trailer axle and you better not slip. Unloading is a bear since there is no leverage point to pull out of Condor chock with-out floor boards. The floor boards in combination with the Condor make loading and unloading a Harley much safer and easier. The floor boards rest about 1/8 inch lower than the rail motorcycle rides on.
Use of Trailer:
For one motorcycle this thing can be pulled with a class one hitch having a two inch ball. A class one hitch can be added to most cars for about $250 as a do it yourself. Curt manufacturing makes a bunch of them. The one(hitch) I got is difficult to notice when the ball mount is removed and rubber plug inserted.
Trailer should not be pulled empty(with-out) bike. The trailer is not designed to be pulled empty and it will bounce and rattle something alarming. Again, it is not designed to be used empty. Maybe 15 MPH to get across a parking lot, street or around the block but that’s it(and expect noise). You can not load or unload the bike unless it is attached to the hitch. There is no way to unhitch the trailer while motorcycle is mounted.
There is no provision provided to mount a spare rim/ tire to trailer. I have seen pictures of a spare tire mounted in front of the Condor vertically by an owner. Probably bolted to the Condor. I would recommend a spare rim/tire since an 8 inch rim with a D-rated/ 8 ply tire is not the most common.
Smooth roads are quieter and no problem, speed bumps with minor precaution (you are pulling a trailer!) are no problems, rain was not an issue. Bumpy roads make for some noises since there is no suspension on trailer (sounds like a large landscape trailer) although i think some of the noise is harmonic due to vibration of aluminum rail on steel tubing. If driving with windows up/closed then probably will not hear much. Bike does not bounce on trailer and appears to be able to use some of its own suspension (suspension not fully compressed). You really forget about the bike until you look in rear view mirror,passing another car or when starting from a stop(increased load)
Speeds do not appear to be an issue (constant 70-75mph+ for hours with several times at 80mph).
I consider the floorboards mandatory for any bagger Harley or any non-super low rider.
I would discourage purchase/ use of trailer with-out floor boards and the Condor upgrade.
The rail is difficult to see with a fairing bike or one with a large nacelle like a Road King but with a spotter you will be OK..after a while you learn to just aim for the condor. Again the floor boards add a feeling of assurance and a place to step. Make sure the Condor is flipped in correct position before trying to load.
Loading and unloading requires setting two light posts aside to avoid tripping. Each light post is held in its holder with a Pin and a Clip.
There are no standard supports provided for trailer wiring. Some people use zip ties/tie wraps etc… but Harbor Freight has a Hook & Loop Velcro type roll that is rather inexpensive (less than $10) and works really well to strap lights to lower bike frame or trailer when cut into 15 inch strips(re-usable and require no tools). Do NOT use the rings from the pins to strap wires. The trailer pins rotate over time and this will place stress on the wires and possibly break them.
The aluminum rail can be slippery (even when dry) when loading and unloading. Rear wheel spin when loading and front tire slip when apply brake to unload.
I added non-slip/traction tape to aluminum ramp and the two other aluminum rails.
Home depot has some 4 inch traction tape that looks good and works well.
To tie it down: The “Power Tye” ratchet strap set-up I purchased someplace else worked well . It came with 4 Ratchet straps, each strap had the sheepskin cover and everything came in a bag. Hooks had the extra clip in case of slippage also. I took the sheepskin covers from the rear straps and added them to the front ones for extra paint protection through the triple tree(Be carefull with brake line!). Rear straps were attached to passenger floor board posts/mounts. The Condor itself held the bike well. It made getting off /on the motorcycle safer and tie down easier.
Security:
Security is always a concern with any trailer especially an open trailer since the front wheel is in a chock and the forks are not locked. A disc lock should be mandatory along with some reminder for the disc lock (maybe tape on key). The trailer itself could be taken apart in pieces. The trailer ball mount can be removed. The ball itself can be removed etc. etc. The use of multiple security layers should be considered if required. Several locking pins are available from places like Home Depot, Walmart and trailer supply houses. pins are available in ¼ inch like the trailer tongue, or ½ or 5/8 used on trailers on some ball mounts. In the end it is a trailer and security is a concern so common sense and locks/chains etc. just to slow them down.
Overall:
It is about space, tow vehicle requirements and convenience.
The trailer is strong, minimalist and is easy to store.
The trailer is expensive and probably cost about $600 more than most would like to pay when you add the Condor and Floor Boards. Someone could possible make one similar for about $800 if they had the time, tools and skill. Yes, Harbor freight has trailers, get the trailer, add their ramp, rail, and chock can get it done for less than half but storage will still take more space. Space is where this trailer excels.
There are very few trailers that can be stored in a linen closet, laundry room or condo locker. If you take the wheels off and remove the 3 pins for the Condor then the parts could probably lay flat under a bed frame… except for the wheels.
The trailer actually fits in a trunk with Condor and floor boards included. The Condor pins must be removed first. A spare tire would be difficult to fit in a small car trunk.
The trailer can be pulled with a Class 1 hitch so most small cars can handle the load.
The cheapest way to trailer a bike would probably be a U-Haul rental. If available when needed and then again it must be OK with a class 1 hitch if that is your tow vehicle.
Convenience in that it requires little planning.
Set-up takes about 30 minutes..getting parts together, assembly, lights, hooking to car.
The bag provided is of limited use since you cannot lift it when packed.
There are better trailer options but few when storage is at a premium.
Final note:
If going direct…I would call and ask for a deal rather than internet ordering..Sometimes they have “sales” on the Condor chock or a spare tire that may not show on the internet…but then again some other resellers may help avoid shipping..And once again I suggest the floor boards be used.
Easy to store:
Fits in the trunk of some cars or 18 inch X 18 inch by 5 foot vertical space like a condo locker/garage corner like the dead space between garage door rail edge and side wall or maybe plastic outdoor storage trunk or larger indoor furniture trunk.
Construction:
Black painted hollow but thick walled and heavy weight 2in./by 2 in. ? steel for main frame that looks like the class II trailer hitch metal, aluminum rails and finally the condor chock. The pieces are heavy so it may be difficult for some to handle, no big deal but still about 35 pounds for the heavier pieces. You would want to assemble and take-apart as close as possible to the car. If in a condo I would suggest using the luggage or grocery cart. You could probably use the provided bag and a hotel luggage cart to pass a lobby and get it into a hotel room or condo quietly. The loaded bag will not hold the weight of contents.
The wiring and lights are just simple standard trailer lights but I was surprised to find mine had LED bulbs installed.
The 8 inch rims have tires with a diameter of about 17+ inches..So if you have a car with 17 inch rims the edge of that rim would be the end of the rubber. The rubber patch that touches pavement is about 4 ½ inches wide. Each D-rated 8 ply tire is rated for 1,045 pounds and stamped high speed. Note that not all trailer tires on the market are D-rated or 8 ply and few are rated for that weight. Most have much lower ratings.
The tires are Load Star brand. The rims are imported. The trailer tongue is also stamped as imported.
The tires are balanced. Pre and post tire tread measurements seem to show tread wear will be about 10,000 miles with rotations. But this is truely just a guess at this time.
The bearings appear to be L44643 with a 1”X 1” 4 lug spindle.
At each fueling the hubs and tires were no warmer than the car tires.
The cross bar(front tie down bar) is heavy but hollow and probably measures 1in.X1in thick. The loops on the end (one on each end) seems to be a chain link welded diagonally into hole of bar. The bar is held to trailer frame holder by two Pins. Each Pin has one clip.
The rear of trailer has 4 loops(two on each side) that appear to be very heavy duty chain links welded to the wheel axle bar.
The ramp must be removed during transport, and stored… tossed in trunk.
Overall the trailer appears very strong and unique in its ability to be stored.
You MUST pull trailer light posts(2) from holder in rear axle in order to load and unload or you risk tripping of over lights and license plate. yes, almost every state requires a license plate.
Requirement:
The trailer does NOT include the floor boards or Condor chock.
In my opinion trying to load or unload a heavy bike without the floorboard option allows ZERO room for error, requires total commitment/trust and no room for loss of concentration. The video person must have practiced thousands of times.
The floor board option is a must in my opinion unless you are very tall and ride a very low or light bike. Reason : Your feet are at least 8 to 10 inches off the ground and you only have one chance to place your feet on the trailer axle and you better not slip. Unloading is a bear since there is no leverage point to pull out of Condor chock with-out floor boards. The floor boards in combination with the Condor make loading and unloading a Harley much safer and easier. The floor boards rest about 1/8 inch lower than the rail motorcycle rides on.
Use of Trailer:
For one motorcycle this thing can be pulled with a class one hitch having a two inch ball. A class one hitch can be added to most cars for about $250 as a do it yourself. Curt manufacturing makes a bunch of them. The one(hitch) I got is difficult to notice when the ball mount is removed and rubber plug inserted.
Trailer should not be pulled empty(with-out) bike. The trailer is not designed to be pulled empty and it will bounce and rattle something alarming. Again, it is not designed to be used empty. Maybe 15 MPH to get across a parking lot, street or around the block but that’s it(and expect noise). You can not load or unload the bike unless it is attached to the hitch. There is no way to unhitch the trailer while motorcycle is mounted.
There is no provision provided to mount a spare rim/ tire to trailer. I have seen pictures of a spare tire mounted in front of the Condor vertically by an owner. Probably bolted to the Condor. I would recommend a spare rim/tire since an 8 inch rim with a D-rated/ 8 ply tire is not the most common.
Smooth roads are quieter and no problem, speed bumps with minor precaution (you are pulling a trailer!) are no problems, rain was not an issue. Bumpy roads make for some noises since there is no suspension on trailer (sounds like a large landscape trailer) although i think some of the noise is harmonic due to vibration of aluminum rail on steel tubing. If driving with windows up/closed then probably will not hear much. Bike does not bounce on trailer and appears to be able to use some of its own suspension (suspension not fully compressed). You really forget about the bike until you look in rear view mirror,passing another car or when starting from a stop(increased load)
Speeds do not appear to be an issue (constant 70-75mph+ for hours with several times at 80mph).
I consider the floorboards mandatory for any bagger Harley or any non-super low rider.
I would discourage purchase/ use of trailer with-out floor boards and the Condor upgrade.
The rail is difficult to see with a fairing bike or one with a large nacelle like a Road King but with a spotter you will be OK..after a while you learn to just aim for the condor. Again the floor boards add a feeling of assurance and a place to step. Make sure the Condor is flipped in correct position before trying to load.
Loading and unloading requires setting two light posts aside to avoid tripping. Each light post is held in its holder with a Pin and a Clip.
There are no standard supports provided for trailer wiring. Some people use zip ties/tie wraps etc… but Harbor Freight has a Hook & Loop Velcro type roll that is rather inexpensive (less than $10) and works really well to strap lights to lower bike frame or trailer when cut into 15 inch strips(re-usable and require no tools). Do NOT use the rings from the pins to strap wires. The trailer pins rotate over time and this will place stress on the wires and possibly break them.
The aluminum rail can be slippery (even when dry) when loading and unloading. Rear wheel spin when loading and front tire slip when apply brake to unload.
I added non-slip/traction tape to aluminum ramp and the two other aluminum rails.
Home depot has some 4 inch traction tape that looks good and works well.
To tie it down: The “Power Tye” ratchet strap set-up I purchased someplace else worked well . It came with 4 Ratchet straps, each strap had the sheepskin cover and everything came in a bag. Hooks had the extra clip in case of slippage also. I took the sheepskin covers from the rear straps and added them to the front ones for extra paint protection through the triple tree(Be carefull with brake line!). Rear straps were attached to passenger floor board posts/mounts. The Condor itself held the bike well. It made getting off /on the motorcycle safer and tie down easier.
Security:
Security is always a concern with any trailer especially an open trailer since the front wheel is in a chock and the forks are not locked. A disc lock should be mandatory along with some reminder for the disc lock (maybe tape on key). The trailer itself could be taken apart in pieces. The trailer ball mount can be removed. The ball itself can be removed etc. etc. The use of multiple security layers should be considered if required. Several locking pins are available from places like Home Depot, Walmart and trailer supply houses. pins are available in ¼ inch like the trailer tongue, or ½ or 5/8 used on trailers on some ball mounts. In the end it is a trailer and security is a concern so common sense and locks/chains etc. just to slow them down.
Overall:
It is about space, tow vehicle requirements and convenience.
The trailer is strong, minimalist and is easy to store.
The trailer is expensive and probably cost about $600 more than most would like to pay when you add the Condor and Floor Boards. Someone could possible make one similar for about $800 if they had the time, tools and skill. Yes, Harbor freight has trailers, get the trailer, add their ramp, rail, and chock can get it done for less than half but storage will still take more space. Space is where this trailer excels.
There are very few trailers that can be stored in a linen closet, laundry room or condo locker. If you take the wheels off and remove the 3 pins for the Condor then the parts could probably lay flat under a bed frame… except for the wheels.
The trailer actually fits in a trunk with Condor and floor boards included. The Condor pins must be removed first. A spare tire would be difficult to fit in a small car trunk.
The trailer can be pulled with a Class 1 hitch so most small cars can handle the load.
The cheapest way to trailer a bike would probably be a U-Haul rental. If available when needed and then again it must be OK with a class 1 hitch if that is your tow vehicle.
Convenience in that it requires little planning.
Set-up takes about 30 minutes..getting parts together, assembly, lights, hooking to car.
The bag provided is of limited use since you cannot lift it when packed.
There are better trailer options but few when storage is at a premium.
Final note:
If going direct…I would call and ask for a deal rather than internet ordering..Sometimes they have “sales” on the Condor chock or a spare tire that may not show on the internet…but then again some other resellers may help avoid shipping..And once again I suggest the floor boards be used.
#15
07-09-2011, 10:15 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
There is something about a trailer-in-a-bag that I don't like -- not sure what it is
Those appear to be 12" wheels and I am not liking that either.
If I was going to buy one with the goal of saving on storage space I'd look into Kendon Standup Trailers.
Those appear to be 12" wheels and I am not liking that either.If I was going to buy one with the goal of saving on storage space I'd look into Kendon Standup Trailers.
#16
07-10-2011, 10:32 AM
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#17
08-18-2011, 08:46 PM
There's many reasons to haul a motorcycle.
I know this thread is old but I have been looking at trailers also since U-Haul discriminates again Ford Explorers. I came across this:
http://www.theusatrailerstore.com/mo...cycle-trailer/
It looks pretty sweet but I wonder how steady it is at 65-70 mph. Anyone ever used one of these?
I know this thread is old but I have been looking at trailers also since U-Haul discriminates again Ford Explorers. I came across this:
http://www.theusatrailerstore.com/mo...cycle-trailer/
It looks pretty sweet but I wonder how steady it is at 65-70 mph. Anyone ever used one of these?
#18
08-19-2011, 07:00 AM
There's many reasons to haul a motorcycle.
I know this thread is old but I have been looking at trailers also since U-Haul discriminates again Ford Explorers. I came across this:
http://www.theusatrailerstore.com/mo...cycle-trailer/
It looks pretty sweet but I wonder how steady it is at 65-70 mph. Anyone ever used one of these?
I know this thread is old but I have been looking at trailers also since U-Haul discriminates again Ford Explorers. I came across this:
http://www.theusatrailerstore.com/mo...cycle-trailer/
It looks pretty sweet but I wonder how steady it is at 65-70 mph. Anyone ever used one of these?
#19
08-19-2011, 08:21 AM
Road Captain
There's many reasons to haul a motorcycle.
I know this thread is old but I have been looking at trailers also since U-Haul discriminates again Ford Explorers. I came across this:
http://www.theusatrailerstore.com/mo...cycle-trailer/
It looks pretty sweet but I wonder how steady it is at 65-70 mph. Anyone ever used one of these?
I know this thread is old but I have been looking at trailers also since U-Haul discriminates again Ford Explorers. I came across this:
http://www.theusatrailerstore.com/mo...cycle-trailer/
It looks pretty sweet but I wonder how steady it is at 65-70 mph. Anyone ever used one of these?
Why does Uhaul discriminate against Ford Exploders?
#20
08-19-2011, 08:35 AM
It has to do with lawsuits stemming from the Firestone tire rollover debacle. For fun go to uhaul.com and go through the process of reserving a motorcycle trailer and put in 2003 Ford Explorer, you'll get the we're sorry statement.
Has anyone used the trailer from Northern Tool;
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6701_200466701
My dilemma is I only plan on using the trailer once or twice a year so I don't want to spend $2,500 but I don't want to see my bike sliding down the highway because the frame breaks, a wheel blows, etc. And for storage purposes I would like to fold it up and store it in my garage.
Has anyone used the trailer from Northern Tool;
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6701_200466701
My dilemma is I only plan on using the trailer once or twice a year so I don't want to spend $2,500 but I don't want to see my bike sliding down the highway because the frame breaks, a wheel blows, etc. And for storage purposes I would like to fold it up and store it in my garage.