<<<Please disregard the following request. I put just a bit more grunt on it to 'break' it free and the bearing is now moving easily. >>>>


Guys, For those of you who have pulled inner cam bearings I could use some info.

I'm ready now to pull the inner bearings using the George's'Garage puller tool. My Q is how tight are the OEM bearings when in place-- in other words how much 'grunt' should I be prepared to use on the puller nut?
As I make it tight I'm not getting any movement on the bearing and my concern is this-- is it possible to 'set' the puller tool too far behind the bearing and actually pull on the back lip?
Before I pull too hard any past knowledge is appreciated. I'm in my workshop standing by-- hope someone can help soon.

Everything else related to the cam swap is going fine.

Thanks!

 

I did my cams last winter and used the same tool from George's Garage. It can take quite some force to break the 'seal' of the original bearings to get them out. You don't have to worry about setting it too tight. The lip on the puller is small enough to go through the hole when fully expanded. If you want to make sure you can take the puller and stick it through one of the new cam bearings. You'll be able to see how far the lip goes.

Here's a picture of the empty holes on mine... Good luck.

 

This is a picture I just made of an original cam bearing and the GG puller with the shaft in place. You can see the lips won't catch anything but the bearing. No worries about damaging the castings.

Hope this helps.

Bartje

 

And now with picture added....

 

Mine sounded like something cracked, then out it came, very easily..

 

All good guys and thanks for your replies. It was on of those "what the" moments where I charged in without taking a few minutes to do those checks such as putting a bearing on the tool and sinply looking at it, or taking vernier depth measurements inside the housing.

While I was monitoring the board yesterday I started thinking surely no pro shop would make a tool that would catch the collet lip behind the housing, so I put a bit 'more' into it and as reaper22 said I heard the 'crack' sound ad it started easing out. Same for the other one as well.

I suppose I could have pulled the collet pin but as there was only a smal amount of the pin standing proud of the tool it would have been a hassle getting it out.
On the second bearing I left a bit more pin standing proud so if I had to I could pull it out and retrieve the collet tool.

Still have to cut out the cat while waiting on the return of my ECM module from RevPerf so I'm probably two weeks from start up considering it's an overseas trip for the module to and from RevPerf.

I do appreciate your responses and thank you muchly!

 

What cams you going with?

 

S&S EZ Start 551's.

The other simple mods are Stage 1 with the OEM header cat gutted and a Revperf EMS tuner.

Maybe some mild head work next year-- the cams can't take more than a 9.9-1 comp bump-- I'd probably consider 9.7-1 max.

Just looking for good roll on power for passing and hills.

 

Yep, when I did mine, I almost had the "big one" when the bearing went crack!

 

Yes pappy those suckers were in there a lot tighter than I expected. I felt like a goose when I got the first one out, realising that it's impossible for the tool to grip behind the bearing seat...
I had real concerns while writing the original request for help, mainly because I was thinking about how to remove the tool for another bite after having to gently tap it past the OEM bearing ID on insertion (as the instructions stated).