I'm noticing problems with charging... I have some LEDs, and some other goodies, like an aftermarket headunit, and an amp... and at stops the meter on the bike starts dropping down to the 12v mark and sometimes less... I keep it on a tender in the garage... I'm assuming I need a larger/heavier duty stator...

My question is how difficult is it to change out the stator myself? I have the ability, I'm sure... I have the service manual... just need to know what level of difficulty this would be to swap out for a larger/better suited stator...

Thanks!!!

 

It's actually easier than you think.. only takes about 2-3 hours... you'll need a block of wood.. 6 1/2 in. long I think... to lock the clutch and stator gears so you can loosen the stator nut...

 

First off put a real meter on it and determine the actual voltage . Then you will learn if there is a problem or not.

 

I'm pretty sure there's a problem...

During the course of a ride of any length, I can watch the on-bike gauge gradually drop from >14v to ~12v when at a stop... doesn't that alone indicate a problem? Also, the battery isn't charging during a ride of any length (short or long).

The dealer has told me both times I've warranty replaced a battery in less than 2000 miles that it's due to a charging system problem...

I've hooked a meter up after a ride, and battery voltage does drop after riding almost any distance, and my lights dim at stops, so... I believe I do have a problem. I haven't hooked up to the stator directly, so where should I test from? Normally I test right at the tender lead with it not running... should I do so from there when it is running? Is that a valid test point?

As I said, it's on a tender any time I'm not riding, so I leave the garage with a 100% charged battery... and it's practically a brand new OEM battery (3rd one in less than 15k).

 

Take the battery to a Battery Plus or somewhere else where they can load test it. Putting a meter on it only tells you what the voltage is with no load

 

When you get the outer primary off, remove the chain adjuster according to the shop manual. Remove the compensator nut. there should be enough slack in the chain to remove it from the front sprocket.
Here's where it gets fun. Take a drimmel grinder and shave the inner primary between the 6 and 9 o'clock. It isn't much. Maybe a 1/32's shave. Just enough to slide the rotor out. That will keep you from having to remove the clutch, starter and inner primary, which equals money and time. Make sure you clean out the aluminum shavings. Don't be afraid of it, it is a easy process.

 

Great suggestion, for a shorted plate in a battery can drop voltage and appear to be a problem it isn't, all though it could be the stator as well. You can check for AC voltage coming from the stator before it enters the regulator if there is an electrical junction. The stator generates AC, then goes into the regulator to get converted to DC where it is also regulated to a usable DC voltage.

 

1.) correct diagnosis first.
LEDS use very little power-

the meter in the dash in an indicator- test must be done at the battery with a "real" voltmeter.
The meter is the dash is subject to voltage drop in the wiring and is affected by the other lights etc on the same circuit.

2.) as above, fully charge battery- with a charger - NOT a tender- have it load tested. check and clean cable connections ( SEE BELOW).


3.) if you do this job DO NOT use air impact tool on the comp sprocket or the clutch hub ( left hand thread)- this tool may cause damage.





Diagnosis is key. The guy up the street spent $1300 on 3 new batteries and 2 x stators and regulators. the pic below shows the problem, which was a $12 fix, I stripped back the insulation to further illustrate his problem:





mike

 

More likely a problem like mkguitar showed,or a regulator. If you have a HD manua,there will be instructions to test your stator. It'd be a waste to change the stator if it's not the problem. I've had many bad regulators on Harleys,never had a bad stator-thought I did one time,but it was a bad plug in on the end where it goes through the primary case.

 

I had a problem I thought was the charging system. I fully charged the battery and the problem was the same. Dimming lights with increase in RPMs above 2000-2500 and dimming ata stop.

I bagan to diagnose the problem by attaching a voltmeter to the battery and discovered loose terminals I did not see when charging. Easy fix this time.

I would think in your situation using a voltmeter while the engine is running to determine if there is a voltage drop to be concerned about. You say the voltage when riding is 14v on the gauge, what makes you think it is not charging while riding ?

Maybe to be certain you need to rig up the voltmeter so it is safely attached somewhere you can easily see it and go for a ride, this way you know for certain there is a problem or not instead of hucking parts, money and time. Nothing is more frustrating than doing a bunch of work and it does nothing to cure the problem.

Also I would check every connection on the charging circuit to ensure they are clea and positive connections and inspect the wiring, lok at the photos posted of the corroded wire !! Yikes.

I am not trying to insult you but maybe help you find the problem.I am o professional mechanic and learn sometthing new all the time but I hate to waste money and effort needlessly so I look for every reason that could cause a problem before spending money on parts. Good luck with finding the cause of your problem and your frustration. Please keep us posted to the outcome.