I posted a thread a few days ago about battery issues I had on Saturday.

Found out my battery tender was bad and replaced it, did a load test on the battery and it read 9.7 amps during starting which isn't too bad from everything I read.

Rode it around a little, but was still paranoid about the battery. Charged it good and this morning when I was out in the garage having a smoke I turned the switch to accessory to put a drain on the battery. I did this 3 times...second time I turned the flashers on. Tried to start it and it wouldn't even think about turning over.

Weird thing is, was when I switch my bike to the accessory mode the front and rear lights come on and stay on. Not the headlight thou. I called HD and they said I should bring it in and let them run a diagnostic on the bike. Got an appointment Friday at 2:00.

Just got back from buying a new battery. I stopped at Advance Auto and had them test the battery and it was reading 200 cranking amps, but it wasn't charged when I took it.

Anyone ever had a situation like this with their lights coming on when switched to accessory? Bike is a 2014.

 

https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....383996!!0!4976


Accessory position - Bike will not start, No Headlight

 

Did you mean that the bike showed 9.7 volts during starting instead of amps? I would say 9.7 volts and that battery is done. Get a new one.

 

Even placing a new battery on the bike, it should be fully charged first.


They don't usually come fully charged.

 

Yeah, I meant 9.7 volts...on the old battery, not the new one. I checked the new battery after putting it in and it read 10.7 when I hit the start switch then went instantly to 14+ volts with the bike running.

The new battery is good to go, just can't figure why the lights come on when the switch is switched to accessory. In that position I'd think only the tunes and power ports would work.

 

so that if stopped at side on the road you don't get hit- think of them as parking lights.



Mike

 

For future reference according to a HD service manual 12.8v is 100% charge and 11.8 is considered 0% charge. This is probably for starting, so the 9.7v is a goner, What type of tender and was it under warranty? I have used Deltran's smart tenders since 1998 and they have replaced two at no cost, they have a ten year warranty. Now, I just tried the accy. position on my 2013 Road Glide and no lights (front/rear turn signal) come on, I would visit the dealership and see what's going on.

 

Got an appointment Friday at 2:00 for them to run an electrical diagnostics on it. Said it only took about 30 minuets and was $50 some bucks.

If it aint hurting anything I don't care if the lights come on. I've never had my bike sitting around with the switch set to accessory anyhow.

 

When load testing the battery properly with a load tester, the battery voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts.
Starting the bike and measuring the voltage across the battery terminals is quite a good method of testing battery condition in your own garage as a starting point as you did. The 9.7 volts you saw when doing that test showed that the original battery was in reasonable condition so it might be worth keeping it as a back up battery.
The tail light and front pilot light coming on in accessory is certainly a standard feature on HDI bikes due to legislation as is the option to turn on hazards and the horn.
The starter is disabled in accessory position and that is normal.
The front pilot/running light coming on in accessory position is a feature that can be turned on or off via the dealer computer by them accessing BCM customisation and adjusting the running light configuration from On for HDI models to the Off position if it isn't a requirement in your area but I thing it's a handy safety feature as already mentioned by mkguitar if you're on the side of the road at night.
It seems to me that your bike is fine but if it gives you peace of mind then for sure let them check it out. If you've the option drop off the old battery also and ask them to test it on their GRX tester and it should give you a state of health read out for that battery.

 

9.7 volts resting is not a healthy battery if it's fully charged after a period of rest.

10.7 volts resting is also not healthy but if that was under a load, ie while the starter was spinning, it's a good voltage.

14 volts while the engine is at idle is what it's susposed to be because that is not battery voltage, it's the output voltage of the bikes charging system. Although you should really check that voltage with the engine at 2000 rpm. HD's target voltage is 14.2v @ 2k rpm.

The key to testing any battery is that it be fully charged before any testing is done. That includes new batteries because, while they come with a good charge, they are not fully charged.

On my '07 Ultra, which is, electrically and electronically speaking, a generation older. The accessory position activates the radio, the accessory switch panel and the rear running lights but not the front lights. Oddly, IMO, the hazard flashers cannot be activated in the accessory position, only the ignition position. ..
Your '14 with the CANBUS electronics is likely programmable to many different configurations.