Built the best engine cooling system...again
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Vermont
Rick,
You have to shim the horn out 1/4" with the new hardware in the kit, Sorry no PDF yet but I put some pics and instructions on the website http://www.wardspartswerks.com/fcs-install.html Hit me with any questions you might have.
Jason
You have to shim the horn out 1/4" with the new hardware in the kit, Sorry no PDF yet but I put some pics and instructions on the website http://www.wardspartswerks.com/fcs-install.html Hit me with any questions you might have.
Jason
Thanks Jason....The only question I still have is a matter of keeping the metal to metal fan and horn brackets tight against one another when tightened to factory "horn" torque specs. The horn is backed with rubber and will stay put, but I also want the fans to stay where tightened and not be subject to downward movement on either end. I wondered if you found this an issue? I was contemplating putting a star washer between the fan and horn mount where it won't show, and a standard or lock washer under the horns acorn nut. I don't want to use anything that will damage the powder coating though.
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From: earth
Thanks Jason....The only question I still have is a matter of keeping the metal to metal fan and horn brackets tight against one another when tightened to factory "horn" torque specs. The horn is backed with rubber and will stay put, but I also want the fans to stay where tightened and not be subject to downward movement on either end. I wondered if you found this an issue? I was contemplating putting a star washer between the fan and horn mount where it won't show, and a standard or lock washer under the horns acorn nut. I don't want to use anything that will damage the powder coating though.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Vermont
Originally I did the same thing and put a rubber washer in between the fan mount and horn mount. It always slipped until I removed the washer. So nothing between the fan mount and the horn mount, just use a flat washer under the factory bullet nut and tighten to 15-18 ft/lbs, should do the trick. The really tricky part is keeping everything aligned while tightening.
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From: Maryland near DC
Originally I did the same thing and put a rubber washer in between the fan mount and horn mount. It always slipped until I removed the washer. So nothing between the fan mount and the horn mount, just use a flat washer under the factory bullet nut and tighten to 15-18 ft/lbs, should do the trick. The really tricky part is keeping everything aligned while tightening.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Vermont
I'm just going to torque it to factory specs for the horn mount whatever the service manual says that is? I'm still skeptical that the vibration and shaking will not cause the fan to rotate down over time at one end or the other...However, Jason's an engineer and I'm not so I'm going to follow his design instructions. He knows his product. I'm just an old fasioned shade tree guy! lol If I find it moves over time, I'll probably try and design a keyed hold down to replace the factory one, and key the hole in the fan mount? I like to ensure that things stay put.
Last edited by Rickr01; Jun 5, 2012 at 03:05 PM.
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From: WV
Truth be told I never put a torque wrench on the horn mount bullet nut. My 06 manual calls for 80-100 in/lbs, I just looked up the generic grade 8 tq for 5/16-18, thats what I quoted you. Try it first before correcting slippage issues that may not exist. For the record I'm not an engineer, I don't even know how to start a train, let alone drive one.
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 90
From: Vermont
Truth be told I never put a torque wrench on the horn mount bullet nut. My 06 manual calls for 80-100 in/lbs, I just looked up the generic grade 8 tq for 5/16-18, thats what I quoted you. Try it first before correcting slippage issues that may not exist. For the record I'm not an engineer, I don't even know how to start a train, let alone drive one.
In any event, I'm definately going to torque it up and give it a try just as you suggest. You have a few miles under your belt with it so I'm sure you are correct and its good to go. The reason I will follow the books torque however, is to avoid the possibility of twisting the horn hold down stud right out of the rubber. I speak from experience on this issue because I did it on my last bike. It didn't take much torque and away it spun. I haven't pulled my street glide horn off yet so maybe its designed differently?? All of my questions will be blistfully answered this weekend when I get my garage time to do the install and test her out! Very excited about this!
Last edited by Rickr01; Jun 5, 2012 at 05:03 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: MN
Recieved the cooling system the other day and installed it on a '11 FLHX. So simple to install using the plugin for the AUX switch under the seat. I just went to the dealership and picked up the Suppleimental 12v powerpoint wire (#91843-97). I had to change the ends on it to match the leads for the fans, very simple. Now I just leave the switch on the fans in the up postion and turn them on and off with the AUX switch. When the motor is running, you can just barely hear the fans running. They look great, and work well so far. See this, weekend as it is suppose to be 90+ degrees and I'll do some in town riding to test them out.
Have had a few people ask what they are, they really have to look when I tell them they are my new Turbo charger's
Happy so far!
Have had a few people ask what they are, they really have to look when I tell them they are my new Turbo charger's
Happy so far!