If reverse polarity the fans will not run. If you are sure you have no power at plug trace plug wiring out.

 

Mine is wired to the accessory switch and works with ignition and switch on as it should. On the Street Glide the orange wire on deutch connector is hot (positive) when ignition and switch is on and black wire on same side is negative (neutral). If you don't have the wires crossed, then you will need to break out the VOM. Start at the accessory fuse on the bikes fuse panel. Should be very easy to figure out why there is not any power. Not much in that circuit.

 

Thanks both for suggestions. Here's what I've checked so far:

Only one way to connect fan power wires to harness, so polarity switch not an issue. I confirmed that red/red and blk/blk is connected.

I pulled the left side cover and looked at the Acc fuse (#2 spot). Does not look burned; looked normal.

My dealer built the deutsche plug for me by crimping on the harness. They did it right in front of me with a nice specialty crimper for these connections. Crimp looked good. The terminals are installed in the correct locations, which is ground in #4 (upper left) and power in #3 (lower left). I get a positive connection feel when I plug into acc connector under seat.

I hooked up my multimeter and tested it on a battery. Was measuring fine. Then I tested the Acc socket under the seat w/ Acc switch on/Ign on and nothing. I did not think to test at the fuse. So I should pull the #2 fuse and test for current there?

I don't know how to test the switch on the nacelle. Do I have to disassemble? Would this be a warranty item? Welcome further suggestions on what to check and how. Thanks again.

TedMan

 

I'd check the fuse first. If in doubt, replace it. I'd also check the fans in-line fuse as well. The switch is an unlikely issue at this point. Save that as the last resort.

 

Will do. Thx,

TedMan

 

OK, just finished testing and here is what I found. Fuses are fine. It's actually the P&A fuse (#3). Pulled that out and tested it and was OK. Then I tested for voltage at the acc. socket under the seat w/ Ign on and ACC switch on. Nothing. Then I tested for resistance and found significant values pop up on my multimeter. I therefore surmise it is a break or crimp in the wiring somewhere along the line. So, what would be my next step? Do I need to remove my tank and try to follow the line, should my dealer get involved? is there a straightforward way to test the switch on the nacelle itself. More guidance and input is appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: I also tested the #2 position in the acc socket which if you push the brake pedal should register 12v or so. mine was 12.2v. I also tested position #1 which is hot always with ignition on and also got 12.2v., so there is definitely something wrong between the acc socket under the seat and the switch on the nacelle.

TedMan

 

Pull the cap off (go to post # 5 & 6 in the Inner Fairing Removal thread), you won't have to pull the entire fairing to take just the cap off. You'll then have access to the back of the ACC switch, as well as the other end of the wires that you have under your seat. Someone posted earlier which color wires go to what. I can get my fairing cap off in about five minutes or so if I'm working slow.

Unplug the switch wires one at a time and test them with your multi-meter (to the wires under your seat); this will tell you if there's a break between the ACC switch and the plug.

If the wires test ok, then check the terminals on the switch itself to see if you've got a bad switch: Use the ohmmeter and it should go from 0 (no connection) to some number higher than 0 (connection) when you throw the switch.

Cheers

 

Thanks for the testing procedure, Mike. I have a Road King Classic, so am I looking at having to take the nacelle apart? Seems Iclick mentioned at one time can remove locking ring on the ACC switch w/o having to tear down nacelle.

TedMan

 

I installed my fans yesterday and ran some errands today around town. With the weather around 90° it was a good test for the fans. I now agree with Jason that running them at all times when speeds are <40mph is probably best not only for the fans but to keep ET stable. While riding my ET never exceeded about 240°. This is not oil temperature but "engine temperature" reported by the ECM and displayed by the Power Vision LCD.

When finished with the ride I left the bike running in the garage while watching the ET gauge. It was a bit warmer in the garage and here's what transpired:

Start with fans on: ET=235°
1 min: ET 235°
2 min: ET 235°
3 min: ET 237°
4 min: ET 241°
5 min: ET 244°, fans off.
6 min: ET=270°, fans back on
7 min.: ET=270°

I believe that had I let it idle a few minutes more the ET would've started to slowly decrease. So, with fans on the ET stayed quite stable, increasing only 9° in 5 min., but when switched off increased 26° in 1 min., halting that ascent for another minute after the fans were switched back on.

The temperature did increase slowly while at idle but not much, and I think there is a temperature between 245° and 270° where it will hold even in hot weather, which is very good news. It means I should be able to struggle through our S. LA summers without the engine overheating, and EITMS mode may be a not-so-fond memory. I'll know more as summer progresses and it gets even hotter, but I'm very impressed so far. Now, maybe Jason can fabrik8 a fan kit for us, like one that fits in our helmets.

BTW, I have it wired through a second ACC switch, and the fans will work almost any way you want to wire the switch--upstream or downstream of the fans and regardless of switch polarity. However, there is only one way to wire it if you want the LED light to work properly--i.e., lighted when the fans are on--shown in the chart below. Of course proper fan polarity is required: Red must be to 12V and black to ground.

• O/R wire on switch to 12v ignition. I have another fuse in line here.
• O wire on switch to red fan wire.
• Black wire on fans go to ground.

 

Are you also running an oil cooler? If so, is it Harley, Jag, fan assisted non fan assisted? Thanks for the great report. Tomorrow will be the first chance I will have had to ride with my new fan installation. I've only been able to run it to test that they come on in the garage. Can't wait to get on the road....Hmmm, run them at anything 40MPH and below you say?