I was looking to upgrade my motor and decided to go with the Fuelmoto 98 kit. Called them last week and talked to Keith. Answered all my questions and the ones he didnt know he asked someone that did. Great customer service.

I am doing this build myself because with the money I saved I put towards having the level B headwork done w/compression releases. If I would have had the coin I would have gladly dropped off the bike for them to do.

This will be in parts but in the same thread because I am working long hours now so I get to it when I can. The plan is to have it complete by the 1st of the year. I will change the thread title when its complete.

The biggest mistake Ive made so far was attempting this while tired and in a hurry. Not a good combination.

As always if you see something I did wrong or know of an easier way dont be bashful. Im all for whatever it takes to make things easier for the next person.

So lets get started. Will add more as I go down my list.

List of tools needed so far.
service manual
Needle nose pliers
1/2" deep well socket
7/16 deep well
T25
T40
phillips screwdriver
regular screwdriver
1/4 allen
1/4 long allen with ball on end
3/16 allen
5/32 allen
9/16 socket
1/2 socket
3/4 socket
3/8 socket
5/16 piece of hose
Zip Ties
Bags and marker...BAG and TAG ALL BOLTS
Rubber mallet
Blue lock tite. LOck tite ALL bolts
Assembly Lube
inch lb torque wrench
ft lb torque wrench

 

Get bike up on lift and remove saddle bags and side covers.


On right side of bike you will see the fuse block.


To release the fuse block...reach behind it and push the white button.

The fuel pump fuse is the one to the left. The manual says to pull the fuse...start the bike till it dies and then turn over a couple of times to relieve the pressure in the fuel line. BULL..bike will not start without the fuse in..ask me how I know. So I just pulled the fuse and turned it over a few times. No problems with high pressure.

 

Remove screw at back of seat. Push seat forward and it come right off. Phillips screwdriver



Disconnect negative battery terminal ( Thats the one without the red cap)



DRAIN the fuel tank. I didnt and made a huge mess.Cut the metal clamp from one end of the crossover line on the tank (thats the line in front off the tank). Take a piece of 5/16 hose and clamp one end. Remove the one end of the crossover line and QUICKLY put you hose in its place...fuel will come out. Then drain into container.

Remove 2 bolts frome front of tank. T40 or 1/2 socket.



Remove bolt from rear of tank. T40 or 1/2 socket

 

Open fuel door and remove the 2 screws just to the inside of the rubber stoppers. 5/32 allen



Remove the bolt at the bottom of the tank counsel.



Remove gas cap.

Lay a clean cloth down by the front of the rear fender. Remove counsel and lay it on the cloth.




Replace gas cap.
Disconnect the sender/pump connector (yellow)
Disconnect the vent tube from filler neck. Be very careful you do not pull the fitting from the filler neck.

 

Basic stuff so far. I wanna see the build. Thanks.

 

Disconnect the fuel line. Push up on the chrome piece while pulling down on the line.



Remove tank.

Remove right side foot rest. 2 bolts inside of frame. 3/8 allen



On to the exhaust. I have V&H True Duals so yours may be a little different.
Remove the heat shields. It was easier for me to get the center exhaust clamp off this way.
Remove the 2 bolts from the cylinder head. 1/2 socket



Remove the 2 bolts for the muffler. 1/2 socket



Remove the center clamp. No picture but its the only thing holding the exhaust system on.
Repeat for other side of bike.

 

Cant get to the build till this stuff comes off. Check back after the weekend because I stopped after pulling cylinders off so I could ship them and the heads to fuelmoto.

 

If you want to see the kind of results you can get with Jamie doing the dyno tune check out my post in the Fuel Moto 98 thread. They just completed the build on my '04 Ultra. I pick it up on Friday. 100.37 HP and 106.75 torque. Good luck on your build. They did have to change my clutch spring as the extra torque did cause the clutch to start to slip. The Fuel Moto gang are good people.

 

Remove air filter cover...airfilter and backplate. There are 2 more bolts under the rubber breather caps. 7/16 deepwell, 1/2 deepwell and T25



Pic of everything removed.



Remove boots for spark plugs. Remove plugs.Take a pic to remember how the wires were ran. Rear sprk plug goes to right side of coil. You can then either take the wires out of there holders or leave them in and just remove the holders from frame. Disconnect ignition coild connector from left side of coil. (plug wire run ito the coil..thats where the connector is). Pull the metal sides of the ignition coil out to release the coil. Remove.



Back onto the right side of the bike. There are six elect. connectors here. Unplug them all You can mark them if you want but 4 of them are different so they can only plug into one thing. The other 2 are for the fuel injector connectors. Do not mix them up.

 

Pull rubber boot down and disconnect the ET sensor from the rear of the front cylinder.



Remove acorn nut remove horn and wire and zip tie everything to the top of the frame.

Loosen up idle/throttle cables. Adjusters are by the throttle grip. Loosen jam nut and thread all the way in to give you some slack. To disconnect them pull up on the cable and push the wire thru the cut opening in the cable bracket. You should have more then enough slack now to disconnect them from the wheel. To disconnect the cruise (lower right of pic) remove the e clip from the sleeve at the end of the bracket. Push plastic end of cable off of the fitting. Zip tie everything out of the way.





Remove 2 bolts to release top engine mounting bracket. 9/16



Remove bolt to release stabilizer link 9/16



Remove mounting bracket and stabilzer link as an assembly.