New for Road King: Independent control of passing lights
#41
No, but this one will: http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Instructions: http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J05534.pdf
(why there are no instructions for 69200442 is beyond me)
Instructions: http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J05534.pdf
(why there are no instructions for 69200442 is beyond me)
#42
#43
There is a way to jump the passing lights into the high beam circuit without cutting wires and leaving the stock factory connector intact. I did this mod years ago to my RK and it took longer to take the trim ring and headlight out than to do the mod. It can be put back to stock if ever needed just as fast because like I said, no cut wires of connector was removed. I even swaped the passing lights switch with the aux. switch so now it's easier to turn them off if someone is comming the other way. I upgraded the headlight and passing bulbs to the PIAA Extreme White and if your on a back road at night with all three lights on it looks like daylight in front of you, it will literally blind on comming cars that's why you need to be able to get to the switch fast.
Last edited by roadhog96; 02-19-2012 at 07:35 PM.
#44
There is a way to jump the passing lights into the high beam circuit without cutting wires and leaving the stock factory connector intact. I did this mod years ago to my RK and it took longer to take the trim ring and headlight out than to do the mod. It can be put back to stock if ever needed just as fast because like I said, no cut wires of connector was removed. I even swaped the passing lights switch with the aux. switch so now it's easier to turn them off if someone is comming the other way. I upgraded the headlight and passing bulbs to the PIAA Extreme White and if your on a back road at night with all three lights on it looks like daylight in front of you, it will literally blind on comming cars that's why you need to be able to get to the switch fast.
#45
There is a way to jump the passing lights into the high beam circuit without cutting wires and leaving the stock factory connector intact. I did this mod years ago to my RK and it took longer to take the trim ring and headlight out than to do the mod. It can be put back to stock if ever needed just as fast because like I said, no cut wires of connector was removed. I even swaped the passing lights switch with the aux. switch so now it's easier to turn them off if someone is comming the other way. I upgraded the headlight and passing bulbs to the PIAA Extreme White and if your on a back road at night with all three lights on it looks like daylight in front of you, it will literally blind on comming cars that's why you need to be able to get to the switch fast.
#48
Instructions for the 69200442 for my 2009 RKC didn't match the actual part. The wire connecting the ON/OFF switch thru the fuse is actually black. The instructions show it as O/W (orange with white). You'll be able to figure it out though. The idiot who made the thing wasn't able to. Also the spade connector on the switch end of the black wire is at a right angle to the wire. That makes pulling the insulation over it, like the instructions say, impossible. I was able to improvise an insulator from some shrink tube. (No shrink tube is included in this kit.) Another odd thing is that the original wire was actually soldered to the spade on the switch, something the instructions failed to point out. That added a bit to the time it took to install this kit.
So, for thirty bucks you'll get a couple of strands of wire, some cheap connectors all thrown together with an incorrect wiring diagram. As for quality and getting your money's worth? It just ain't there.
So, for thirty bucks you'll get a couple of strands of wire, some cheap connectors all thrown together with an incorrect wiring diagram. As for quality and getting your money's worth? It just ain't there.
#49
Instructions for the 69200442 for my 2009 RKC didn't match the actual part. The wire connecting the ON/OFF switch thru the fuse is actually black. The instructions show it as O/W (orange with white). You'll be able to figure it out though. The idiot who made the thing wasn't able to. Also the spade connector on the switch end of the black wire is at a right angle to the wire. That makes pulling the insulation over it, like the instructions say, impossible. I was able to improvise an insulator from some shrink tube. (No shrink tube is included in this kit.) Another odd thing is that the original wire was actually soldered to the spade on the switch, something the instructions failed to point out. That added a bit to the time it took to install this kit.
So, for thirty bucks you'll get a couple of strands of wire, some cheap connectors all thrown together with an incorrect wiring diagram. As for quality and getting your money's worth? It just ain't there.
So, for thirty bucks you'll get a couple of strands of wire, some cheap connectors all thrown together with an incorrect wiring diagram. As for quality and getting your money's worth? It just ain't there.
I agree. Same for my '03. What a joke. I'll be returning it tomorrow.
#50
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mountain Top, Alabama
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Returning mine tomorrow. FLHR diagram is misleading, colors are wrong, contact on back of lamp switch is wrong. Could be made to work with a splice or two, but why? The purchase was for plug and play. If I'm going to cut wires, I will do Dawg's mod and return the stupid harness - and collect those 30 bucks.
The instructions are written in "Milwaukeese".
Folks - beware of the harness for the FLHR models-
The instructions are written in "Milwaukeese".
Folks - beware of the harness for the FLHR models-