Just check the dimensions prior to purchase to be on the safe side...and then you should be ok..

 

They are the same as one of the stock HD batteries. You have not said here what you are riding so the ETX30L may not be the one you need.
HD has 7 part numbers.
It doesn't matter if they need shimming I have had to shim batteries in the past and they work fine and come with the shims. Usually metric batteries need shimming in HDs (Yuasa).

 

Temperature in the 70's today here in TX and a great day to ride. Went to start my 10 Ultra after I got home from work and unhooked it from the battery tender. It turned over once or twice then the solenoid or relay started clicking. Bike is always on the battery tender when not on the road and has been since it was new. Voltage across the battery terminals was 12 volts which is too weak to turn it over. Prior to this I had noticed it getting weaker but didn't think much about it at the time. Voltmeter showed around 14 volts on last ride so I'm reasonably sure the charging system is working OK. Bike is 14 months old and still under warranty so I'll be getting a new battery at no charge. The dealer tells me they will have to keep the bike overnight, put it on a charger for 24 hours, check the charging system and do a load test before they are allowed to replace it. Since I live 45 miles from the dealership I will have to have the wife follow me, leave it and go back to get it the next day. Damned inconvenient but I will do it since I'm told a new battery is $170.

A friend I ride with has an 09 UC and his battery went out at 16 months. I wonder if this is typical of the newer Harley batteries. The battery in my shovel is almost 5 years old and still works fine. Next time I need a replacement I will be looking for an aftermarket battery that doesn't say Harley Davidson on it.

 

My bike is an 11 EGC and the battery is right at 16 months now. It started getting weak about a month ago. Not sure if this is a pattern or we are just finding each other in a forum that typically collects problems.

 

Did you put it on a load tester?

My 7 year old (battery tender maintained since new) OEM HD battery is fine, but failed the load test. A load tester will tell the truth about your battery as it tests under real world cranking conditions.

I had to get a new battery because I installed some new HID lights and my battery would only fire up one light on my '05 Road Glide. Now the new battery fires up both my lights and spins the starter much quicker.

 

I am not sure what all the tests the diagnostic machine does, but I assume it does a load test since there were several different things it reported. The voltage dropped to 9.x and it reported the cranking amps as low.

 

Do you know what the actual cranking amps were?

Remember that a battery's cranking amperage is normally rated at either 0 or 32 degrees F...and there's a lot of difference in the cranking amperage at those temps.

The cranking amp rating refers to the number of amps a battery can support for 30 seconds at a temperature of 0 or 32 degrees F until the battery voltage drops to 1.20 volts per cell (or 7.20 volts for a 12V battery).

A rule of thumb is at least 1 cranking amp per cubic inch of the engine in which the battery is used (assuming no very high compression and such).

 

Just a side thought. I was stranded last week after going for a ride with a weak battery. I thought a vigorous ride after spending the winter on the tender would refresh the battery. The failed ride was due to not giving thought to the battery's limitations due to it's weakened state and using the heated grips, passing lamps, cruise control...ect.
First the digital display blanked out (with no low battery light), then some power lose, followed by engine sputtering. I quickly switched off the passing lamps and it roared back to life. I pumped up the RPM's, shut off the heated grips, and cruise control but she soon started sputtering again and and quit altogether.
Word to the wise for those venturing out with a weak battery, run only the essential electrical devises, and stay close to home. Esp. do not use any heated accessories (grips, gloves, seats...ect).

 

no offense man but you're grasping at straws here. Batteries (especially lead acid batteries) don't work this way with measuring amperage "life"; with voltages maybe you'll see the gradual decrease but not with amperage. One day it will have plenty of CCA, the next day it will not. That's when it's time to replace it.

There are many ways to test a battery and ALL of them have been proven time and time again to be inaccurate in scientific labs.

Discharge Method
Capacity vs CCA Method

these are just a couple. You can take the same battery and using either of the above or the SAE J537 method, using the same EXPENSIVE test equipment and the readings will be different every time. There is no exact science to this.

Rule of thumb; When your bike becomes hard to start, check your cables for tightness and corrosion. If your cables pass the visual and physical inspection, change the battery. This is the only proven method of your butt not being left stranded on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.

 

I wonder if it's beneficial to add a power stiffening capacitor to bike batteries. Back in my car stereo days, this adds "punches" to a car stereo system along with power filtration. Say, a 1/2 Farad?