P1238 and P1510 Codes after PYO Bagger Bars!!!
*** Sorry for the 1238 in the subject line.....little dislexia kicking in there.
Well finally got my bike buttoned up after getting my 10" PYO Bagger Bars on and DDM HID lights put in. Fired it up and got a CEL. Figured out how to run the diagnostics and got the P2138 and P1510 codes.......SUCK! I cleared them and they came right back. Does this mean I have to pull it all back down and pull the TBW harness out and replace? It seems to run fine.....although I have not ridden it yet. May have a little throttle hesitation but I think its just my brain playing with me. Where should I start?? thanks |
Originally Posted by Glen1978
(Post 9419123)
*** Sorry for the 1238 in the subject line.....little dislexia kicking in there.
Well finally got my bike buttoned up after getting my 10" PYO Bagger Bars on and DDM HID lights put in. Fired it up and got a CEL. Figured out how to run the diagnostics and got the P2138 and P1510 codes.......SUCK! I cleared them and they came right back. Does this mean I have to pull it all back down and pull the TBW harness out and replace? It seems to run fine.....although I have not ridden it yet. May have a little throttle hesitation but I think its just my brain playing with me. Where should I start?? thanks P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode Sounds like you have problems with the wiring in the twist grip sensor. Did you pull the green plug through, wire it out, or move it? If you pulled it, it may have come apart. You also could have damaged the twist grip itself. Check the plugs in the fairing for the throttle and make sure you have good connection in the molex plug. My cruise control didn't work at first because one of the pins in the molex plug got pushed out. |
The green plug did not go through the top bend. Its right there at it. Im gonna pull the front fairing off and check the plug. Does it hurt to ride it like this or will it damage it further? Assuming it will "ride"......seems to run fine.
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FIXED!!! Thanks to the wiring diagrams in the shop manual......best money I ever spent right there. The #5 and #6 wires were swapped in the Molex connector. Swapped them around, cleared the codes and good as new.
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Glad you didn't have to tear it apart.
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Not as glad as me brother!!! All is well now. Took it for about a 40 mile run and all good. Came home and adjusted the clutch some and moved the bars toward me some. Still gotta adjust the HID lights some.
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wow quick reply
I do not have a green connector on this TBW setup got new one from Dealer so that's not it I checked the plug like 30 times I am so good at pulling that thing apart I can do it almost blindfolded I even cut off the Yellow shrink rap checked the wires (all ok) put new yellow shrink rap on then pulled off the black shrink rap checked the wires then put new black shrink rap on put it all back on bike bam codes back? |
Originally Posted by ltomas
(Post 15019375)
wow quick reply I do not have a green connector on this TBW setup got new one from Dealer so that's not it I checked the plug like 30 times I am so good at pulling that thing apart I can do it almost blindfolded I even cut off the Yellow shrink rap checked the wires (all ok) put new yellow shrink rap on then pulled off the black shrink rap checked the wires then put new black shrink rap on put it all back on bike bam codes back?
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just not as crisp
Hey
The bike run ok just not as crisp if you know what I mean Also no cruise Well and the codes What I mean when I say not as crisp is When I hit the gas it just feels a very bit slower than it should be and when I clear the codes I don't even need to start the bike for them to be back just wont go away |
Originally Posted by ltomas
(Post 15021376)
Hey The bike run ok just not as crisp if you know what I mean Also no cruise Well and the codes What I mean when I say not as crisp is When I hit the gas it just feels a very bit slower than it should be and when I clear the codes I don't even need to start the bike for them to be back just wont go away
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