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Clutch Question

  #1  
Old 06-04-2012, 08:43 AM
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Default Clutch Question

I have an 07' Street Glide with about 7k miles. Just bought it a few months ago.

I've noticed two things with the clutch....

1) The hand-lever doesn't return all the way back, when you release it. Probably about 90% back. If you push it the rest of the way forward, it stays put. Do you think the cable needs to be lubed?

2) I've noticed that if i start the bike in gear, and have the clutch pulled back, it still seems slightly engaged, the bike wants to barely lurch forward when you hit the starter. I was curious if this was normal. Also got me wondering if the cable needed to be adjusted, and the two observations could be related.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:47 AM
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You need to adjust the clutch. get the manual its easy. Mine does not return all the way back either, there is a litle give just like yours.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by wu8always
I have an 07' Street Glide with about 7k miles. Just bought it a few months ago.

I've noticed two things with the clutch....

1) The hand-lever doesn't return all the way back, when you release it. Probably about 90% back. If you push it the rest of the way forward, it stays put. Do you think the cable needs to be lubed?

2) I've noticed that if i start the bike in gear, and have the clutch pulled back, it still seems slightly engaged, the bike wants to barely lurch forward when you hit the starter. I was curious if this was normal. Also got me wondering if the cable needed to be adjusted, and the two observations could be related.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

The Hand Lever not going totally back is normal, when you adjust the Cable, you leave between 1/16" and 1/8" of play at the Ferrule.

You might need a Clutch adjustment though.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:24 AM
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even though you have the clutch pulled in, there is still some residual drag on the clutch plates (especially when cold) which explains why you feel that slight lurch. now, it it lurches so much that it's hard to hold, then you definitely need an adjustment.

i adjust my clutch every 5k when i change the primary. is it overkill? probably. but with fresh fluids, and freshly adjusted cable, the bike feels almost like new....
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:22 AM
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Before I replaced my factory clutch cablefor my apes, the cable stretched enough that getting 1/8" at the ferrel was not possible without the adjustment point running out of thread....and the bike only had 3000 miles! I know! From what I hear thats not unusual!
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:23 AM
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thanks for the feedback. i have the manual, so i'll tinker around with it.

if i think harder about it, i think it does it slightly more when the bike is cold. it's not so much that you can't hold it back. it's very minimal.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:30 AM
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Lurching can also be caused by too much oil in the primary. When you open it up to adjust the clutch maybe have a look at the fluid level.
And the freeplay on the lever is normal and optimal. It guarantees that the clutch is completely engaged once the lever is released. You can take up a bit of the slack by using the adjuster on the clutch cable in front of the motor.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:40 AM
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Both of the items you describe are perfectly normal.

If the clutch lever did return all the way, then you have a problem (no freeplay in the clutch). A little freeplay in the lever is both desireable and necessary for proper clutch function.

As for the lurching, these bikes have wet clutches. They do not disengaged as crisply as a dry clutch would. The oil will tend to keep the plates "stuck together" until some mechanical force seperates them. That's the lurch you're feeling.

As for starting the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged, I'd save that for emergency situations and start the bike in nuetral as a standard practice. Much easier on the starter system.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:46 AM
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When the bike is cold, the primary oil is cold and the clutch plates are stuck together by the oil between them. Ever try to pick up a piece of glass or metal on a table or flat surface that is wet on the bottom side? Same principle - the oil makes the plates harder to separate.

Personally, I wouldn't start the bike in gear, especially cold. Once running after a cold start, you can pull the clutch lever a couple of times to free things up a bit. You will still get the clunk, but not a lurch. Starting in gear is risky - there is always the chance you can forget the bike is in gear and forget to pull the clutch. You can do what you want, but my personal habit is to always start in neutral and pull the clutch before starting.

As for the lever not completely returning, yes, that's normal, given your cable slack is adjusted correctly as indicated by a previous post. You may need a clutch adjustment as well if the cable slack is correct and you still get a lurch.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sargek
Starting in gear is risky - there is always the chance you can forget the bike is in gear and forget to pull the clutch.
from 2007 on, hd is protecting us from ourselves and has installed a neutral safety interlock that will prevent the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch is not pulled.

but, regardless, it is still a good practice to get in the habit of always pulling in the clutch when you start, even if you are in neutral.
 

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