BrandSS , check your original post "amp install".. I already posted the amp setup info earlier today for you as per the instructions the Rockford Fosgate tech gave me today....

Glen1978 ... the Polk MM651 speakers are 3 ohm .... the hot to the battery , 10AWG wire with 30 amp fuse near battery, #10AWG ground wire to suitable ground or battery terminal (I used battery terminal)..check the post "amp Install" as well for more detailed instructions as per the RF tech dept ....

 

I'll go look for that post but what did you set your gain to? I had to leave mine at the minimum (I followed J&Ms advice about setting gain with the stereo at max volume).

I think the manual said my 561's were actually 2 ohm....

Did you notice in the Polk manual they recommended an amp with a power rating higher than the speakers? (front page of book)..... I think we did that <g>

 

John , , I know the DB651 is a 4 ohm speaker , the MM651 is a 2.7 ohm , (essentially a 3 ohm classification ) .. good thing is , is that unlike the pBR300X4 4 channel amp which can only use 4 ohm speakers, the new PBR300X2 is setup to handle 2 ohm , 3 ohm and 4 ohm speakers , so we're all good... crank it up !!!

as far as the gain, The guy at RF told me to only have the head unit at 70-80% output instead of full volume when setting the gain , because no matter whose head unit is , ALL head units lose clarity and have distortion at full volume so never set it that way , turn it back some for clarity and then use some gain to get the sound up where you want it .. made sense to me ... maybe thats why I was able to use the gain control...

 

I like these amps..... they go up to 11!!

 

I just got the manual out of the garage- yep, listed at 2.7 ohms. I wonder where I saw 2? Maybe on the speaker... And yeah, that set-up makes more sense than the J&M when you consider distortion inherent to the source. I'm going to do a do-over on mine this morning.

I'm going to get a pair of the 561 UM's for my dragonfly rear pods. I guess I'll have to run F and R in series to keep the amp happy but with 200 W/channel RMS (200 X 2 @ 0.022% THD), I think I've got power to spare <g>.

 

crank it up..... as far as tuning it .. my settings on the frequency may differ from others as far as the amount of bass, as I have a roadglide and that fairing seems to produce more bass than my smaller batwing fairing did....

 

Yep, bigger fairing = bigger airspace = bigger bass!

 

What did you guys use for speaker grills in the bat wing with the polk speakers?

 

Just the factory grills. You can still use them between the speaker adapter and the inner fairing like with the original speakers.

 

[QUOTE=NC_John;9503573]I just got the manual out of the garage- yep, listed at 2.7 ohms. I wonder where I saw 2? Maybe on the speaker... And yeah, that set-up makes more sense than the J&M when you consider distortion inherent to the source. I'm going to do a do-over on mine this morning.

I've been debating this for a while now. I understand what J&M is trying to do with there tuning of the amp. They want you crank the head unit to Max and then adjust the amp to a point just short of distortion...That way you are sure not fry your speakers with distorted sound since tons of guys at speed crank it up to max.

RF's approach to me makes more sense for quality sound by taking the Head Unit to 70 or 80% thus assuring a very clean signal and then use the amps gain to take it up to a nice level. The danger is a dude not thinking then takes there head unit up to 90 or 100% and they won't notice how distorted it is and thus the speakers fry...I have the RF Coming Monday and I plan on tuning around 75%.... and tell my wife never go past that spot...she'll remember right?

As for me I have the ROKKER/ARC Mini in my RG and it has the warranty sticker on the gains...It rocks like crazy, but I am very tempted to pull the sticker and retune to 75%...as it is now I have never had a need to go past 80% with that amp.