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First Clutch Adjustment on 2012 103.

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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #11  
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Thanks for the info guys. I may just change the fluid and leave it alone.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #12  
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The problem with not doing the proper clutch adjustment is the fact that it wears so slow. We adjust our own feel for the clutch and constantly compensate for the wear. Then all of a sudden it is out to far and you fry the clutch plates, and warp other stuff. You are best off adjusting at each interval.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lhgdale
Thanks for the info.

Let me ask one more question,

The clutch on my SG has been perfect since I rode it home from the dealer. Lever is great and clutch release is in the sweet spot for me. Is there a reason I have to adjust it? I am just doing everything on the 1000 mile HD service chart. If I adjusted it I would want it pretty much just like it is now. Thanks
Originally Posted by lhgdale
Thanks for the info guys. I may just change the fluid and leave it alone.
Even though you are happy with the clutch release/engagement I would at a minimum check to make sure you have some freeplay at the clutch hub while the cover is off. Freeplay at the lever is not a gaurantee that you have freeplay at the clutch. Lack of freeplay at the lever, at the clutch, or at both is an invitation for clutch slippage and premature wear.

It's easy to check. When you have the cover off lightly move the lever back and forth while observing for freeplay at the clutch. If you can see the freeplay then you're ok to leave everything as it is. If not, then you had better adjust it.

Just remember, as the clutch wears the freeplay diminishes. Therefore you need to have enough freeplay to make it to your next service interval before all of the freeplay is used up.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Apr 19, 2012 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Even though you are happy with the clutch release/engagement I would at a minimum check to make sure you have some freeplay at the clutch hub while the cover is off. Freeplay at the lever is not a gaurantee that you have freeplay at the clutch. Lack of freeplay at the lever, at the clutch, or at both is an invitation for clutch slippage and premature wear.

It's easy to check. When you have the cover off lightly move the lever back and forth while observing for freeplay at the clutch. If you can see the freeplay then you're ok to leave everything as it is. If not, then you had better adjust it.

Just remember, as the clutch wears the freeplay diminishes. Therefore you need to have enough freeplay to make it to your next service interval before all of the freeplay is used up.
Can you please elaborate by what you are calling "freeplay at the clutch"?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:35 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by hoethree
Can you please elaborate by what you are calling "freeplay at the clutch"?

Yes. The freeplay I'm referring to is the clearance in the clutch release pushrod. This is the clearance you are setting when you back off the adjuster 1/2 a turn, or 3/4 turn, or whatever number of turns you use. The adjuster is a 7/16-20 thread so each 1/2 turn will provide a .025 change in the clearance.

You cannot see the clutch release push rod when assembled but you can visually verify the freeplay, or absence thereof, by observing the movement between the release plate and the internal snap ring in the pressure plate as you move the lever. If there is no relative movement between the release plate and the snap ring, then an adjustment is necessary.

Does that answer your question?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Yes. The freeplay I'm referring to is the clearance in the clutch release pushrod. This is the clearance you are setting when you back off the adjuster 1/2 a turn, or 3/4 turn, or whatever number of turns you use. The adjuster is a 7/16-20 thread so each 1/2 turn will provide a .025 change in the clearance.

You cannot see the clutch release push rod when assembled but you can visually verify the freeplay, or absence thereof, by observing the movement between the release plate and the internal snap ring in the pressure plate as you move the lever. If there is no relative movement between the release plate and the snap ring, then an adjustment is necessary.

Does that answer your question?
So when I pull in the lever I should see the adjuster move in and out?
These plates are visible with just the primary cover off?

I gather from your description that when I tighten down the adjuster and then back off 1/2 turn or so, I am "adjusting the freeplay", then tighten with the lock nut. Not sure I follow you as to what I should see where when I pull in the clutch lever.

Appreciate your attempts to help me understand.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by lhgdale
Hello, I'm doing my 1000 mile service on my 2012 Street Glide. I've changed the engine oil and trans fluid. Engine took right at 3.5 qts to reach the FULL HOT mark. Trans Took 32 oz. My question is, the clutch adjustment changed on the 103 or is it the same as the older 96ci? On my 10 Wide Glide (inside the primary) I turned the adjustment nut in till it had some resistence then turned back out 3/4 turn. I then tightened up the lock nut and adjusted the lever. Also, my manual says 38oz (wet) of primary fluid. My wife may get mad but she has a great pampered chef glass measuring cup that goes up to 38oz. I will use it to measure out the exact amount. Thanks for any help and suggestions.
Wife says same thing when I used her turkey baster to remove too much oil from the primary. Before you adjusted, what was your turn loose? I had my 40K clutch all apart checking the bearing in it and had it all adjusted at 3/4 turn and 1/16 leave play. Now with 200 mile on it, it has 1/4 leaver play. Not sure what happened. Guess sovething seated in so guess I better recheck turns and not just do cable. Go by height on clutch with bike level, not oz.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by hoethree
Interesting. My 2010 StreetGlide says 32 oz for the primary, not 38 oz. Mine is a 96. Why would a 103 need more primary fluid?
My '07 calls for 38 oz. and I haven't heard of any new-generation engine (96/103/110) that has a different spec.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by hoethree
So when I pull in the lever I should see the adjuster move in and out?
These plates are visible with just the primary cover off?

I gather from your description that when I tighten down the adjuster and then back off 1/2 turn or so, I am "adjusting the freeplay", then tighten with the lock nut. Not sure I follow you as to what I should see where when I pull in the clutch lever.

Appreciate your attempts to help me understand.
Yes.

Yes.

Yes.

And you are welcome.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Apr 19, 2012 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 06:23 AM
  #20  
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I changed my primary fluid and adjusted my clutch yesterday afternoon and WOW, I am glad I did. Took less than 20 minutes. My primary fluid was pretty dark, I guess due to the first 1000 miles breaking in the clutch. I put in fresh fluid 38oz exactly (I measured the old stuff) and turned the adjuster screw back 3/4 of a turn. My clutch is better than I could wish for. Releases about an 1 1/2-2 inches off the bar and feels great! Thanks for the info!
 
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