How to take off oil filter?
#11
05-22-2012, 09:28 AM
After bumping the Crank Position Sensor once and having to pay $60 for a new one, I now have 4 new filters with the 17mm nut on the end of it just waiting on the shelf. Will never go back to the other style unless I have to.
Before I take the filter off, I punch a hole in the bottom and top to let the filter drain. Saves a little mess, for what it is worth. Also, if the old filter is stuck on there, you can poke a screw driver through it and use that to turn it. Had to do that on my first oil change. The filter was likely the original, as I bought a 99 in 2010 with 2200 miles on it. Even if it were not the original, I know the guy had not ridden the bike in 4 years, so either way it had been on there for a while.
Before I take the filter off, I punch a hole in the bottom and top to let the filter drain. Saves a little mess, for what it is worth. Also, if the old filter is stuck on there, you can poke a screw driver through it and use that to turn it. Had to do that on my first oil change. The filter was likely the original, as I bought a 99 in 2010 with 2200 miles on it. Even if it were not the original, I know the guy had not ridden the bike in 4 years, so either way it had been on there for a while.
#12
05-22-2012, 09:40 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
There are several different style tools as well as filters with a hex head on it, but your going to throw it away anyway and sometimes the easiest way is to grab it with a large channel locks and remove it. when installing the new filter put a film of anti-seize, o-ring lube or a dab of old oil on the sealing ring around it. Then screw it on by hand till it seats somewhat firm, then give it a 1/4 turn more.
I purchased channel locks made specifically for oil filters. The jaws are round, with small teeth at the ends. It works great.
I coat the new oil filter gasket with fresh oil, then install and hand tighten.
#13
05-22-2012, 05:38 PM
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Northern California
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these are awsome!! for changing oil filter...no flex and machined...pretty slick some HD dealers actually carry them.
http://www.efabex.com/paulimoto/inde...ter%20Wrenches
http://www.efabex.com/paulimoto/inde...ter%20Wrenches
#14
05-22-2012, 05:42 PM
Tourer
#16
05-22-2012, 06:28 PM
I used a small tow strap and wrapped it around the filter then pinched it with a pair of needle nose pliers and spun it right off. Worked quite well to my surprise! I work at a car dealer and a tech here has a flexible rubber coated piece of metal that you can shape however you need to, I will buy one of those to keep the mess under control. Most auto parts stores sell a strap type wrench for car filters but why buy one when you can make it?
#17
05-22-2012, 06:31 PM
OK now you know how to change your filter and have an idea what wrenches are available to help do the job. Seeing this is your firsts time changing your oil you may or may not know that you should avoid letting motor oil come in contact with the front motor mount. If it does you can wipe it off and use a cleaner for oil removal and rinse with water. Oil will deteriorate the rubber mount. If your using synthetic instead then you better ask someone else. I'm not aware of it's effects on rubber or other materials, I do not use it.
#18
05-22-2012, 06:41 PM
Road Warrior
these are awsome!! for changing oil filter...no flex and machined...pretty slick some HD dealers actually carry them.
http://www.efabex.com/paulimoto/inde...ter%20Wrenches
http://www.efabex.com/paulimoto/inde...ter%20Wrenches
#19
05-23-2012, 03:51 AM
Former Sponsor
Autozone sells a tool with three teeth that will grip the filter and let you loosen it enough to remove it by hand. becareful with the crank position sensor....you don't want to hit that sensor with the tool used to remove the filter. going forward, buy the filter that has the nut at the end of it...makes it very easy to remove.
There are several different style tools as well as filters with a hex head on it, but your going to throw it away anyway and sometimes the easiest way is to grab it with a large channel locks and remove it. when installing the new filter put a film of anti-seize, o-ring lube or a dab of old oil on the sealing ring around it. Then screw it on by hand till it seats somewhat firm, then give it a 1/4 turn more. It does not have to be spot torqued.
P.S. Spot torqueing is tightening it till you see Spots in your eyes !
P.S. Spot torqueing is tightening it till you see Spots in your eyes !
#20
05-23-2012, 06:15 AM
I don't understand what all of the discussion is about! The oil filter wrench that H-D sells cost me $7.95 at the dealership last summer. The wrench works great. Why would anybody look any further?
As for the idea of driving a screw driver through the filter. I used to think that was a good idea until I ripped the can completely off the filter once. Then, I really had a problem. The fix involved using a chisel and a couple of hours of head scratching.
As for the idea of driving a screw driver through the filter. I used to think that was a good idea until I ripped the can completely off the filter once. Then, I really had a problem. The fix involved using a chisel and a couple of hours of head scratching.