How I did my Garage Door Opener on 2012 SG (FLHX)
#1
How I did my Garage Door Opener on 2012 SG (FLHX)
Hey Guys,
I know that they have been many threads on garage door openers and how to adapt them onto your bike. But I figured I would add another thread on how I did mine with pictures. It was very easy and took me a total of 30 minutes, $18 in parts from HD, and a spare garage opener.
I wanted a finished look that looked somewhat factory so I decided that I wanted to add a switch to my inner fairing that matched the speedometer trip reset switch. I wanted the switch on the opposite side of the current speedometer switch.
Items Needed:
Garage Door opener
Drill and bits
Solder Iron, solder
Wire
67854-98 - Speedometer reset switch
67880-94 - Boot, reset switch
Step 1.
I have a Lift Master unit, but I am sure that this would work with many other brands. I took the unit apart and located the switches that were under the buttons on the remote. Turning the circuit board over revealed that there were 2 soldered points that were obviously the switch legs. By shorting those 2 leads, the door would open or close. Since my opener had an open area the would have allowed another switch to be wired in, I used this area to solder my switch wires into the system. If it did not have this area, I was simply going to solder my wires (one to each leg of the switch) on the underside of the circuit on the actual switch legs.
Step 2.
I used a die grinding wheel to make a small notch in the plastic housing of the remote so that the wire would be able to come out of the housing after I put it back together. This put the remote back to it's original configuration.
Step 3.
I crimped some connectors on the wire coming out of the opener so that if I ever sold the bike or needed to, I could disconnect the opener and leave the button in place so that there would not be a hole in the fairing, just a switch that did nothing at that point. I crimped the other end connecters on the switch end so that it all plugged up together.
Step 4.
I located the area that I wanted the switch and drilled my hole in the inner fairing. BE CAREFUL here to not drill through any wiring harness on the back end.
Step 5.
Locate an area on the inside of your fairing to mount the remote unit. I used 2-sided sticky tape (the foam style) and stuck in on the plastic portion of the fairing. I did this as I noticed if it was on a piece of metal (radio, hardware bracket) that the range was MUCH less.
Step 6.
Place your switch in the hole and use the waterproof boot to secure it. Button up your fairing and you are good to go!
I also replaced the battery in my unit so I would be good for several years.
I will add a couple other photos of this project as the max is 5 per post. If I have missed anything or anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
I know that they have been many threads on garage door openers and how to adapt them onto your bike. But I figured I would add another thread on how I did mine with pictures. It was very easy and took me a total of 30 minutes, $18 in parts from HD, and a spare garage opener.
I wanted a finished look that looked somewhat factory so I decided that I wanted to add a switch to my inner fairing that matched the speedometer trip reset switch. I wanted the switch on the opposite side of the current speedometer switch.
Items Needed:
Garage Door opener
Drill and bits
Solder Iron, solder
Wire
67854-98 - Speedometer reset switch
67880-94 - Boot, reset switch
Step 1.
I have a Lift Master unit, but I am sure that this would work with many other brands. I took the unit apart and located the switches that were under the buttons on the remote. Turning the circuit board over revealed that there were 2 soldered points that were obviously the switch legs. By shorting those 2 leads, the door would open or close. Since my opener had an open area the would have allowed another switch to be wired in, I used this area to solder my switch wires into the system. If it did not have this area, I was simply going to solder my wires (one to each leg of the switch) on the underside of the circuit on the actual switch legs.
Step 2.
I used a die grinding wheel to make a small notch in the plastic housing of the remote so that the wire would be able to come out of the housing after I put it back together. This put the remote back to it's original configuration.
Step 3.
I crimped some connectors on the wire coming out of the opener so that if I ever sold the bike or needed to, I could disconnect the opener and leave the button in place so that there would not be a hole in the fairing, just a switch that did nothing at that point. I crimped the other end connecters on the switch end so that it all plugged up together.
Step 4.
I located the area that I wanted the switch and drilled my hole in the inner fairing. BE CAREFUL here to not drill through any wiring harness on the back end.
Step 5.
Locate an area on the inside of your fairing to mount the remote unit. I used 2-sided sticky tape (the foam style) and stuck in on the plastic portion of the fairing. I did this as I noticed if it was on a piece of metal (radio, hardware bracket) that the range was MUCH less.
Step 6.
Place your switch in the hole and use the waterproof boot to secure it. Button up your fairing and you are good to go!
I also replaced the battery in my unit so I would be good for several years.
I will add a couple other photos of this project as the max is 5 per post. If I have missed anything or anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
#6
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#8
There is nothing to it! Send me your remote and $20 for parts and I will send you back a complete remote - all you would have to do is drill a hole!
#10