Everything is extended and ran for my ape hangers. TBW dont wanna lay in its home. Its about 2" from it, if that. Does anyone have any tricks or any idea why it wont lay flat? I adjusted the wires couple times making sure they werent gettin bunched.
Any input helps.

 

Check the inside of the bars for any rough spots that might be keeping the Twist Grip Sensor from sliding all the way inside the bars.

 

What bars? I had the same issue with my prime apes before buying the cvo harness. The green plug happened to be in just the right spot, not all the way over the inside corner and into the down tube, but if I left it on the topside of the inside corner, the wiring would push the sensor out of the bar. Spent the $100 on the cvo throttle and with a little pushing/pulling, settled right in place. I know it can be done with most bars using the connector, and some guys just eliminate it by soldering, but the cvo harness is only $100. For the peace of mind, I'll happily spend $100 to make sure my $25,000 bike is dependable after a bar swap.

 

Carlini Gangster Apes 16in.
I cut the green adapter & soldered it..

 

I cut my green connector out and soldered the wires together without issue. I've done it on 4 bikes now without issue. With my Vindikta bars, I believe the green connector would end up somewhere around the "sharp point" inside the bar so I just did away with the connector all together. Like I said, no issues thus far.

Good luck.

 

If the TBW harness gets underneath the control wire harness in the bars, sometimes it makes it difficult to pull it those last few inches. I would suggest pushing the control harness back into the bars from the bottom to see if that will unwind the harnesses enough to pull the TBW the rest of the way in.

2010 Limited with some stuff!!

 

I have found that pulling the tbw wires though the bars first works best . Then the switch wires . You also may have a constriction at the bottom of the bars where they bend toward the clamp , it is hard to get the wire bundle to bend around the inside curve if that is where the splicing wants to end up as you pull the wires through . When splicing wires or using the nams wire extenders it is a good idea to plan the splice area to be between the down bar curve from the grip and the bar curve to the clamp . Hope this helps .

 

All of these are helping. Im gonna go home & mess with it. Try to feel if anything is binding up. Thanks guys

 

And for what it's worth, peace of mind doesn't cost $100. It's free. It comes from knowing that you've prepared yourself for the job at hand and trusting in your own abilities to do the job correctly. The fact that your working on a $25,000 bike or a $2500 beater is irrelevant. And it cutting it out or buying the CVO version makes no difference in dependability.

2010 Limited with some stuff!!

 

It does when nerve damage in my hands won't allow me to hold a solder gun and wire steady enough to make a good solder joint. Last thing I want to do is chance a joint failing in my bars and my throttle dying 150 miles from home. $100 for no joint to fail at all is peace of mind for me.