The compressed springs were longer than the well, so I dug into the well.

 

Hummm after reading everything being said, Im of the opinion when the time comes to inspect the stock tensioner, Im going to see how possible it is to set the tensioner on the ratcheting device to a safe tolerance and immobilize the device from moving. I had no problem getting in there on the stationary tensioners on my 88, and since they are suggesting you check it after so many miles, whats the point?

 

Will an earlier tensioner pre-self tightening fit the late model bikes?

 

I'm assuming you have a lathe of sorts or maybe you have one of those drill bits with the flat cutting surface so that the bit doesn't go to deep. What size bit did you use and how deep? Did you alter the springs at all?

 

what about if you to the stock tensioner and got it where you wanted it and put a small tack weld on it to keep it from moving, you could do this many times before it was shot? or making a bracket that goes from the mounting bolt to the shoe pin to hold it from moving? i don't think it would take much to over come the spring pressure or would it. just thinking outside the box,lots of silly idea's rolling around inside my head, i'm ready for winter to be over!

 

The well was machined on a lathe with an 'Ifanger' flat bottom boring tool:
http://www.ifanger.com/index.php?id=68

My well diameter is 21mm and my inner spring recess diameter is 15.5mm x 1.5mm deep. The new shoe has the same proportions as mine (after mod).

The large spring is 20mm diameter, the small one 14mm. The springs were not modified; if you know a toolmaker show these springs and she/he will tell you more with a smile

 

Just don't forget to disconnect the battery and the ECU before you do this

 

Seen the picture of the broke one didbnot bother me i like seeing things like that. I love mine no whirling sound from primary no spring pushing on the spring. Just roll the rear tire to the tight spot in the primary chain and adjust to 5/8 cold and if it has more than 7/8 in the loose spot of the chain drop 5/8 to about 1/2 inch and lock it down and check the chain the next riding season or about 7500 miles. Some things do break but i am not worried about mine if it breaks i will figure out what happened my self instead of looking at a picture on the net that you did not see installed. Not saying it was done wrong just going to see what happens to mine and if it fails then i will worry about it they are the best in trans and primary area and i think the know what they are doing and take care of customers if need be.

 

Thank you, so if I understand you correctly, you're telling me that you cleaned up a deffective shoe and brought it to manufactures specifications. In other words the defective shoe now resembles Haydens latest designed shoe in all measurements and now you are able to completely compress the springs that are provided with the latest kit?

 

you could mark it and take it back out to tack weld, the problem i'm having with the baker is safety if that thing lets loose in there like the one in the picture it could toss you on your head. to late in the game for me to try that move.