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You may be getting continuity, but you have to have VOLTAGE!
Checking continuity on a wire that is connected to other circuitry/devices on either end, can be misleading. If the suspected wiry/circuit is not isolated from the system you may get a false reading. That's why I suggested checking the voltage. Start from either end, and work you way through...
If there are no fuses in the side covers, try under the seat? I've never seen so much as a single filament bulb without fuse(s) to protect the electrical system, unless it was a backyard rigged bulb...
I have a 94-99 softail manual its probably the same in regards to brake light. the power comes from a 15amp fuse for lights! the tail light should have a red, green, and black wires. Red is your stop light, green is tail, blk is ground. Remember Keep it simple when diagnosing, all this continuity and switch failures is brain surgery when you more than likely have just a stubbed toe.
Im sure the tail/brake light circuits use the same fuse. 93 used the 1157 bulb and more than likely the socket is toast (this will cause a loss of ground too).
on my 07, i had no tail light, but i did have brake lights. had the fender mounted stop/taillight. bulb was good, but fuse was blown. the brake and taillights were on separate circuits, which makes sense from a safety standpoint (to me anyways).
on my 07, i had no tail light, but i did have brake lights. had the fender mounted stop/taillight. bulb was good, but fuse was blown. the brake and taillights were on separate circuits, which makes sense from a safety standpoint (to me anyways).
No two symptoms are always the same. You could have had voltage bleeding from the dash lights or some other module.
Same problem on my 07 road king, it turned out to be the metal tabs inside the bulb plug needed to be cleaned and opened up to tighten the connection.found the problem after new bulb and replacing the brake switch of course.
No two symptoms are always the same. You could have had voltage bleeding from the dash lights or some other module.
roger that. you can have multiple things wrong that cause the same end result. i was just commenting to the poster who thought that the taillight and brake light were on the same fused circuit. and also giving the op a possible solution.
10-4 on that.
Id also mention that his bike is 20 years old and the wiring harness' back than were prehistoric compared to the newer bikes. They had crappy connectors and that electrical system has had every enviromental issue thrown at it over the years. I rebuilt my buddys 94 softail harness and it was a joke in design. This is why I lean towards the rear section of harness and the light fixture itself.
A volt meter is nothing like brain surgery...
(Well, maybe in some ways it can be. )
It is very easy, except the first time. You have two leads, one is red, the other is black. Stick the black to any common ground like the frame, or just about any black wire. Touch the red wire to the lead/wire that you want to verify voltage on. The meter will show how much voltage is there, or not there. If you get a negative number, switch the leads. Without using a voltage meter, (or, not to confuse things, a test light) everything else is a just a guess.
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