Hello,

I think I may have this figured out but thought I should post for some further information and maybe help if it doesn't work.

At Sturgis this year my bike broke down and out of frustration I put her on the trailer and she stayed there. Almost to the point where I might go buy something newer...those 14s look nice.

The scenario...I was riding back towards Rapid City and hit a seam in the road on the freeway and my bike lost all power. Coasted to a stop off an exit and started looking for the culprit. I noticed the fuel pump was not priming and checked the fuses on the right side. The 15 amp for the ECM was blown and I replaced it with a spare. It would blow right when I turned the stop/run switch to run.

So we towed it back to the hotel. I pushed it up to the hotel room and put a new fuse in it and it worked fine. Took her around the block and then out for a 30 mile cruise. All was fine till I hit a bump and then we are back to the problem.

So fast forwarded to now I have found that the positive lead for the fuel pump has nicks in it. It makes sense since I tested and the positive lead was grounded. I have yet to replace the wire since I am looking for gasoline environment crimps.

Any other thoughts?

Any idea on where to find the crimps? Harley doesn't sell the harness anymore so I have to make one...not a big deal got the wire.

 

70369-97 fuel pump wiring harness $24.15 showing still available at the following dealers:

California
Barger Harley-Davidson Canoga Park P-818-999-3355

Colorado
Avalanche Harley-Davidson Lakewood P-(303) 238-0425

Wisconsin
Vintage Parts Inc. Beaver Dam P-877-846-8243

Here is a breakdown of what the harness is made of should you not get the actual harness:

Description: WIRE HARNESS, FUEL TANK, EFI

10065 CABLE STRAP 1
72039-71A PIN TERMINAL 1
72043-71A SINGLE POS. CAP HOUSING 1
72290-94 TERMINAL, .25 OF, INSULATED 2
72294-94 TERMINAL, PRE-INSULATED, .187 1
73152-96BK RECEPTACLE, HOUSING, 2-POSITION 1
73191-96 RECEPTACLE, CONTACT, 20-16 GA 2

 

i had a wire in my fairing rub on the radiop bracket and it shorted out and blew my head light fuses,,repaired the nick and put a piece of small hose on the edge of the brackets..

 

100 dollar repair bill vs 25000 for new bike hmmmm

 

The part that was damaged was Harley 70313-95. Just a simple jumper lead...

Now more annoyance. I figured this would be it since in my mind you shouldn't have a voltage wire be able to ground back to the battery. Am I wrong in this?

The reason I am asking is on the tank there is three wires that go inside.

The left wire goes to the Fuel Gauge, the right wire goes to the fuel pump +12v side and then there is a bottom wire which is black so ground.

What the issue is if I bypass all of this or not I can get a continuity check between the Voltage and the ground. Then the voltage line can ground back to to the battery. Could this be a bad pump? I can get the pump to prime with out the black ground lead attach.

 

The fuel pump may be grounding through it's body. You may have issues with not connecting the black wire, as it appears that it runs through the Neutral Switch, Trap Door Solenoid, and rear lights before grounding. Chances are you will lose all of these by not connecting the black wire.

 

Sure glad my 99 has a carb....

 

That is a tempting option. I have thought about it before and even my indy has suggested that I look into doing the swap.

This just seems odd to me. The bike is currently running but I haven't taken it out yet since I haven't fully verified what the problem is or was. I do know that when it was blowing fuses it would only do so if I had the fuel pump +12v connected. After I removed it and put it back it didn't, and currently runs fine with everything connected.

Might have to just bite the bullet take my HOG card and the bike out and see what happens. If it dies on the road I can always get it towed to Harley to solve.

 

If it was my bike, I would replace the pump. To me it seems that when it pumps against a dead head, like when you first turn the key on, it's working too hard so it trys to draw more power. That's when the fuse blows. If you get it running as soon as you turn the key on, it's just pumping fuel without working as hard, so the fuse doesn't blow. That's what I get from your description, If a hot wire isn't grounded by being pinched against the frame or other ground source, I would replace the pump.,,

 

70313-95 can be found at the following dealers:


California
Gary Bang Harley-Davidson Atascadero P-(805) 461-1818

Colorado
Aspen Valley Harley-Davidson Glenwood Springs P-(970) 928-7493

Nebraska
Frontier Harley-Davidson Lincoln P-402-466-9100

Ohio
South East Harley-Davidson Sales Co. Bedford Heights P-440-439-5300
Freedom Harley-Davidson North Canton P-330-494-2453

Vermont
Wilkins Harley-Davidson Barre P-802-476-6104