I've had a leak or two on my '10 Ultra and finally figured out the source of one of them: the transmission cover, or what ever it's called behind the chrome 'Six Speed' cover. It's not the chrome cover but the black one with the larger bolts. I think it's the one labeled #1, right-hand side.

The bottom-right one must be loose, as a can move the washer in and out with my finger, though because I can't grip the bolt, I can't turn it by hand. The problem is how to access it: is there a special tool that would allow me to tighten it up without removing the exhaust?

If not, how much of the exhaust do I have to remove or loosen to be able to get access to it? I'm not much at wrenching and can see myself screwing things up big time.

Thank you.

 

Those are pretty easy to get to without removing the exhaust. Mine were loose early on after I bought it. I bought a cheap set of allen wrenches and took the 1/4" one and ground about half of the short part off. You can then get into that tight area and put a bunch of torque on them to stop the leak. Although both were loose holding the exhaust bracket, mine never leaked any fluid. Harley put out a service bulletin increasing the torque specs for those bolts. I use yellow torque stripe paint to mark them after tightening to visually verify that they haven't moved or loosened.

 

I use a 1/4" drive screwdriver bit...butt end first, tighten with a 1/4" wrench. enough of the bit should be hanging out so that you can get a wrench on it with surety

the revised spec from H-D is now 25 ft lbs.

how to torque?

tighten the ones you can get to to 24 ft lbs. with a torque wrench

use the same 1/4" bit and wrench method to tighten each of them a bit past the 24 ft lbs

that will give you a feel to what force is to be applied to the bottom 2 bolts.

btw Harley terminology, that is the "trap door" or tranny end cover


you could alter your profile to show your city or zip...you never know when help from another forum member is down the block

mike

 

To do it right I think you'll have to remove the exhaust, it's best to remove the bolts & clean & loctite them before reinstalling. I haven't had mine loosen, but many others have, you might be able to get in there with a standard L allen, but it wouldn't be a permanent solution. If you've ever thought about changing the exhaust, now would be the time.

 

There is a technical service bulletin with new torque values for these bolts. I believe it is 20-25 ft Lbs now. Not 15-18 as in the service manual. Maybe Dawg will post a link to the actual tsb.

 

This would seem to be the best long-term solution, in part because I could then torque all the bolts that the exhaust interferes with. Took a look at the service manual and looks like I have to remove the entire exhaust system and mufflers; for this repair, would you agree? I can't believe all the time involved just to be able to get access to that bolt.

I tried to get access using three different length hex wrenches and a hex socket but had no luck.

 

Well, I did a Mickey Mouse or Rube Goldburg version of your suggestion and got both of those bolts snug. I'm pretty disappointed that both of those bolts were loose. Not sure how much torque I got on them, using a short 1/4" wrench with a socket on the end of the wrench to give me a little more torquing ability. Next ride I'll probably discover that I was able to strip the threads and they'll fall out!

Were these two bolts likely loose from the factory (not at proper torque) or would they have been touched during a normal factory service? Are they checked by Harley under the 1k mile service?

Thanks to all for your help; looks like I can go for a ride this weekend after all!

 

if you practiced on the other bolts, you might have developed a feel for proper torque value.


if you decide at any point to pull off the trap door, the tip is to loosen the bolts slightly- leave cover in place

roll tires up on 2x4, lean on jiffy stand.
check that bike is stable

then remove the trap door.

all the fluid will stay in the tranny.



make a list of common seals, o rings and gaskets and source them before you need them.
that way you have what you need in the garage, rather then having to find a shop with your derby cover seal in stock

mike

 

Man, I'm glad it wasn't just me. I bought my bike and had a hell of a time finding the leak. Finally narrowed it down to the same Exhaust hanger bolt.

I did the same as the other guys. Cut off the short end of the allen key head and fished it in there. Small incremental turns. Just got it as tight as I could. I use the German torque amounts for some stuff. Best solution to stop problem. Later went back and tightened better when I changed exhaust.

 

The bolts are in a chity place. Mine leaked there when it went in for the 5k service. I agree with the post above that suggest pulling the exhaust and taking the bolts out one at a time, loctite em then torque. Shouldnt leak again for a long time after that. Sux to go thru all of this just for 2 bolts, HD should desigin it better.