Primary oil level
#1
Primary oil level
I know this is going to be a noob question, but I am new and I have a question (or need clairification). Last night I changed the three fluids on my '03 RKC for the first time since I bought it in August. After much reading in my manual and on this forum, I picked my fluids and had a good idea of the procedure. Engine oil and filter and transmission fluid, no problem. The bike is on the lift and level. On to the primary. I drained it and took the derby cover off, looked to see where the bottom of the clutch basket was so I have a reference when refilling. Most of what I read said one quart, some said 32 ounces so here we go. Plug back in and I poured in one quart. I can see it but its not anywhere near the bottom edge of the opening like the book says. I put some more in and thought "this is not right". I got on the forum and read that only the very bottom of the clutch pack needs to be wet, any overfilling will result in hard shifting and difficulty finding neutral. Ok, so how to get some out. I opened the primary inspection cover and my dilemma was solved. I let the fluid run out until it was level with the bottom of that opening and rechecked the clutch. It appeared to have the very bottom of the basket in oil. So I buttoned it up, cleaned the garage floor and went to bed thinking that the oil should not run out of the inspection cover if the cover ever needed to be removed to inspect or adjust the chain in the future, so that must be the right amount of fluid. Now I'm wondering if that reasoning is sound or if I need to lick that calf over again. I appreciate any chuckles and any advise or similar stories.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
#3
#4
#5
level is checked with bike on jiffy, not upright.
The reason that the primary specs are "visual" rather than a specific quantity, is that a large amount of fluid is held in the clutch basket between the plates and disks- with the bike upright, even more fluid will be retained, rather than flow out when drained.
This is one reason to replace with same type fluid- you know they are compatible.
when i change my primary, I like to let drain overnight, with a cable tie holding the clutch lever in so that the plates and disks are separated.
and with the bike on an angle, so that more of the old fluid runs out.
OP, I'd suggest you recheck the level
My 09 manual suggests about 38 OZ for a wet change ( drain out, pour in) and 45 OZ for a dry change, where the clutch pack has been disassembled and all that held fluid is gone.
mike
The reason that the primary specs are "visual" rather than a specific quantity, is that a large amount of fluid is held in the clutch basket between the plates and disks- with the bike upright, even more fluid will be retained, rather than flow out when drained.
This is one reason to replace with same type fluid- you know they are compatible.
when i change my primary, I like to let drain overnight, with a cable tie holding the clutch lever in so that the plates and disks are separated.
and with the bike on an angle, so that more of the old fluid runs out.
OP, I'd suggest you recheck the level
My 09 manual suggests about 38 OZ for a wet change ( drain out, pour in) and 45 OZ for a dry change, where the clutch pack has been disassembled and all that held fluid is gone.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 09-26-2013 at 10:35 AM.
#6
Thanks. I think it's safer to redo. Just wondering if anyone has had this situation also. But now I'm questioning my manual. This is a copy and paste of the procedure for checking the primary level.
"1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and support it so that it is standing straight up. Do not support it on the jiffy stand.CAUTION
Do not check the oil level with the motorcycle supported on its jiffy stand or the reading will be incorrect.2. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspection cover and O-ring (
Figure 12). Remove the cover.
3. The oil level is correct when it is even with the bottom of the clutch opening or at the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (
Figure 13)."
"1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and support it so that it is standing straight up. Do not support it on the jiffy stand.CAUTION
Do not check the oil level with the motorcycle supported on its jiffy stand or the reading will be incorrect.2. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspection cover and O-ring (
Figure 12). Remove the cover.
3. The oil level is correct when it is even with the bottom of the clutch opening or at the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (
Figure 13)."
#7
Thanks. I think it's safer to redo. Just wondering if anyone has had this situation also. But now I'm questioning my manual. This is a copy and paste of the procedure for checking the primary level.
"1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and support it so that it is standing straight up. Do not support it on the jiffy stand.CAUTION
Do not check the oil level with the motorcycle supported on its jiffy stand or the reading will be incorrect.2. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspection cover and O-ring (
Figure 12). Remove the cover.
3. The oil level is correct when it is even with the bottom of the clutch opening or at the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (
Figure 13)."
"1. Park the motorcycle on a level surface and support it so that it is standing straight up. Do not support it on the jiffy stand.CAUTION
Do not check the oil level with the motorcycle supported on its jiffy stand or the reading will be incorrect.2. Remove the screws securing the clutch inspection cover and O-ring (
Figure 12). Remove the cover.
3. The oil level is correct when it is even with the bottom of the clutch opening or at the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (
Figure 13)."
I suggest to Drop it down off the lift (after draining the primary)and fill it according to the manuals procedure.
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