I'm willing to bet he got it started ok but pulled it too tight. I hate installing new plugs. Gotta crush the crush washer first and then tighten. I'm always really tight *** and use never seize so I can feel everything real good.

 

Another quick note on plug installation. Do not pull plugs on a HOT motor. There is a higher chance of pulling a thread from an aluminum head. Only change plugs in an aluminum head with a cool engine and always use a dab of Anti-Seize on the threads when reinstalling plugs. Hand tighten and then 1/4 turn if using a gasket sealed type plug.

 

The motor was cold, and I always use anti-seize. Tool will be here in a few days.

 

[[ I always put my plugs in with fingers only for this reason. if I can't get it to thread in then there is a problem. ]]

Agreed.

And plenty of anti-seize, as well.

Finger tight, then "just a little more" with a small wrench (not large, to avoid over-torque). Works for me.

 

I hate to say it, but there is a torque spec for spark plugs. If you question the torque, do it with a torque wrench one time, then you will have a reference feel for doing it without....

 

Thread inserts (Helicoils) will work just fine.

I mfg. aircraft landing gear parts and many of them require Helicoils.

 

I have been wrenching for a lot of years and always make sure a bolt or screw or especially a spark plug will go in more than one or two threads by hand before putting a tool on it and when it's going in aluminum I don't tighten it that hard.

 

Fixed. Time -Sert tool work perfectly. At the end of the tap is a pilot that cuts a new hole for the tap. A little tricky but all went well.

 

I always use Never Seize, use a torque wrench set to the proper torque (in service manual) to seat the plug and crush the washer, back off a 1/4 turn, then re-torque to the same torque spec. Yes, always on a cold engine....

 

I know this is several years old, but could you please post a link to the time sert you used?