Input on options to extend speedo wiring
#1
Input on options to extend speedo wiring
Hi All,
I have a winter project going to change the 5” speedo on my 09 FLHP to a 4” speedo mounted between my bars next to my 4” tach. I have the 2-up gauge cluster:
Now I need to extend the wiring to get run the speedo connection under the tank and up to location between the bars:
Here are some options that I am considering:
#1: Deutsch Connectors
Here is a post and another that show installation of Deutsch connectors.
#2: Splice and solder
Here is a post that goes through the steps of extending wires when using ape hanger bars.
#3: Crimp Connectors/ Butt-Splice
These are the types that you just crimp the spliced end of the wire in this style connector:
I am leaning towards option #1 however this would require 2 Deutsch connectors: 1 to place inline in the current wiring setup and then another that would be the extension.
Option #2 seems commonly used when installing bars with more reach and when running wiring internally within the bars.
I don't like option #3 as I have had this type of connection come loose over time.
Am I missing any other options here? Any reason not to go with option #1?
THx!
I have a winter project going to change the 5” speedo on my 09 FLHP to a 4” speedo mounted between my bars next to my 4” tach. I have the 2-up gauge cluster:
Now I need to extend the wiring to get run the speedo connection under the tank and up to location between the bars:
Here are some options that I am considering:
#1: Deutsch Connectors
Here is a post and another that show installation of Deutsch connectors.
#2: Splice and solder
Here is a post that goes through the steps of extending wires when using ape hanger bars.
#3: Crimp Connectors/ Butt-Splice
These are the types that you just crimp the spliced end of the wire in this style connector:
I am leaning towards option #1 however this would require 2 Deutsch connectors: 1 to place inline in the current wiring setup and then another that would be the extension.
Option #2 seems commonly used when installing bars with more reach and when running wiring internally within the bars.
I don't like option #3 as I have had this type of connection come loose over time.
Am I missing any other options here? Any reason not to go with option #1?
THx!
Last edited by ReidRik_Von; 11-30-2013 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Broken image deeplink fixed...
#3
I solder for a living.
i have had solder joints fail on my FXRP after I made what i thought was an awesome wiring harness.
Not weeks but months and years down the road, the solder joints were failing...wire strands were breaking due to vibration.
the wire strands will break right where the tinning ends.
someone smarter than i pointed out that is why the manufacturers crimp terminals onto wiring
so i don't do that anymore.
i crimp and my stuff works.
others say they have had better results with soldering...
mike
i have had solder joints fail on my FXRP after I made what i thought was an awesome wiring harness.
Not weeks but months and years down the road, the solder joints were failing...wire strands were breaking due to vibration.
the wire strands will break right where the tinning ends.
someone smarter than i pointed out that is why the manufacturers crimp terminals onto wiring
so i don't do that anymore.
i crimp and my stuff works.
others say they have had better results with soldering...
mike
#4
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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I solder for a living.
i have had solder joints fail on my FXRP after I made what i thought was an awesome wiring harness.
Not weeks but months and years down the road, the solder joints were failing...wire strands were breaking due to vibration.
the wire strands will break right where the tinning ends.
someone smarter than i pointed out that is why the manufacturers crimp terminals onto wiring
so i don't do that anymore.
i crimp and my stuff works.
others say they have had better results with soldering...
mike
i have had solder joints fail on my FXRP after I made what i thought was an awesome wiring harness.
Not weeks but months and years down the road, the solder joints were failing...wire strands were breaking due to vibration.
the wire strands will break right where the tinning ends.
someone smarter than i pointed out that is why the manufacturers crimp terminals onto wiring
so i don't do that anymore.
i crimp and my stuff works.
others say they have had better results with soldering...
mike
I have always crimped...just because it was easier for me, have never had any problems with factory crimps or my own.
However, until your explanation/experience, I have always felt I was taking the "easy" "less professional" route.
#6
I'm in aviation for a living and it's a big no-no to solder just as was pointed out above. I apply the same logic to my other hobby, boating. The individual wire strands will begin to break just where the tinning ends. I've seen it in boats and in cars.
It is best to crimp only and I see no reason why butt connectors would not work for your needs. I think it may "look" a little more professional if you use connectors.
It is best to crimp only and I see no reason why butt connectors would not work for your needs. I think it may "look" a little more professional if you use connectors.
#7
Closing this thread that I started. I completed the project mentioned in the original post by using home runs of lengthened wire that had the proper deustch or packard socket or pin on them. I detailed this here.
For the few times that I did need to splice, I crimped butt connectors with shrink tubing that contained glue...details here.
For the few times that I did need to splice, I crimped butt connectors with shrink tubing that contained glue...details here.
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