The purpose is to give those considering DIY an idea of what it takes. You'll still need the service manual.

I went from stock handlebars to Carlini Gangsters 1.25" diameter, stepped down to 1", knurled, internal wiring, throttle by wire.
Used +10" on clutch and brake cables (but would recommend +8" on brake line) from Drag Specialties.
Used 20" on the extension wiring from NAMZ.
Soldered 46 connections for 23 internally ran wires (bike doesn't have ABS).
Polyurethane riser bushings from Carlini.
I'm 6'1" and they come to my shoulders but not higher.

Removed the switch housing and levers from the old bars. I did not have to remove the tank for this project.


To remove the clutch lever, you'll need a set of pliers designed to remove small retainer clips like the gold clip seen in the pic.

Followed the service manual to disassemble headlamp.


I stagger-cut existing wires, soldered on extensions, pulled through the bars, then soldered on the old molex wires. This approach allowed me to use the existing molex without taking the old wires out of the molex and inserting the new wires. In the end it was more work on my part, but I was having trouble with the molexes.


Riser is stock. Polyurethane bushings were new and required periodic tightening after installation as they compressed over time . You can see the brake cable on the lower left.


Replacing Brake Line - On 2010 RK's there is a small metal post (circled in red) where the new brake line connector is supposed to connect to the frame, however, the Drag Specialty brake line doesn't have an indent to fit around the post so there are two options: 1) grind down the post, 2) insert a 3/16" thick spacer between connector and bike. I chose the spacer and it seems to be working good.


Bleeding the Brakes - Bled the brakes after installing the cables using a Midyvac pump shown here (Harbor Freight). I followed the service manual and this video: Motorcycle Brake Repair: Replacing, Bleeding fluid by smallengineshop.


Replacing the Clutch Cable - I followed the service manual and this youtube video to replace stock clutch cable with the +10" cable. How to Remove the Clutch Cable on a Harley Davidson Big Twin by smallengineshop.


Nacelle after installation. Organized in a way as to not create parts rubbing against each other. Wanted very little movement in the wires as I turned the handlebars back and forth.


I decided to hog tie the brake line to the bars because it looked cleaner.




There is one inch gab between the bars and the windshield.

 

I just did 16" carlinis on my rkc. Mine does have abs. I bled the brakes just like you with the mightyvac from harbor freight.

Unfortunately though i must have left some air in there. When i started her up the brake lever got real hard Now a trip to the dealer for me

The bike looks great man, love the black

 

Great photos and tips - thanks. That's a fine lookin' King you have. Have fun with it.

 

Thanks for the great write up. I'll be doing the same project soon. Looks great!

 

Thanks for sharing your experience and the photos.... I'm thinking of either do the same to my 10' RKC or trading it in..... It will be one or the other...... Just can't decide right now.

 

Boy does that look comfortable! I test rode a buddies stock road king on the way home after he bought it and could only go a couple miles before I had to switch back to my bike because the seating position was so awkward to me. I bet those bars will keep you smiling for quite a while.

 

Awesome

 

Looks good. I like the way Carlinis look on a Road King or on any bike without a fairing.

 

If the only choice is a 2010 with ape hangers or 2014 without ape hangers, i would go with the ape hangers on a 2010.

 

Dirtdogg, are those the 14" or 16" bars? I can't decide what height I want. I'm 5'6", and I want to have them at the same proportion as you have, right at shoulder height.

EDIT: disregard the stupid question. The answer is in the title.