Streetglide back pain. Help
#1
Streetglide back pain. Help
So I took a trip last week and after a 150 miles or so, my back hurt along my spine from lower to middle of back. I have a corbin solo which I love. My butt never hurt and I have a backrest. I felt I was reaching to the bars. Any help would be appreciated. Other than that spinal pain I could have ridden all day. Handlebar change maybe?
#3
how is your physical condition?
if it is good then you need to look at your riding position.
a 300 miles day should be a breeze, 500 routine and 800 a stretch- but you can still get into the saddle for more the next day.
for me- a backrest doesn't help,
I like an upright position with my hands down...shoulders and neck relaxed
my upper body weight transferred on my abs, my legs taking a portion of that weight to the floorboards ( which'll help with steering).
cruise control gives added ability to rest the left/right arms alternately
I use an ultra seat and stock 13" shock tuned for a floaty cadillac ride.
that give me plenty 500 mile days.
my other seats ( brawler and streetglide) are only good for 4 to 6 hours- so dayrides, and the lower riding position with these seats is harder on my back.
particial diskectomy, L3/L4.
I do my physio exercises and before taking a multiday trip, do some 300 and 400 mile loops to ensure that my bike and my body are up to it.
Once rolling eat right, sleep right, hydrate and exercise and stretch
mike
if it is good then you need to look at your riding position.
a 300 miles day should be a breeze, 500 routine and 800 a stretch- but you can still get into the saddle for more the next day.
for me- a backrest doesn't help,
I like an upright position with my hands down...shoulders and neck relaxed
my upper body weight transferred on my abs, my legs taking a portion of that weight to the floorboards ( which'll help with steering).
cruise control gives added ability to rest the left/right arms alternately
I use an ultra seat and stock 13" shock tuned for a floaty cadillac ride.
that give me plenty 500 mile days.
my other seats ( brawler and streetglide) are only good for 4 to 6 hours- so dayrides, and the lower riding position with these seats is harder on my back.
particial diskectomy, L3/L4.
I do my physio exercises and before taking a multiday trip, do some 300 and 400 mile loops to ensure that my bike and my body are up to it.
Once rolling eat right, sleep right, hydrate and exercise and stretch
mike
#6
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Orange County Texas
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You have the hard part beat!!!!
You are going the right way, When setting up a new bike you want to get you lower body (Below the waist) First!!!
The next step is is to get your mid and upper body comfortable. If you mid to lower back hurts this is because you are having to reach for the handle bar.
A good test is to set on the bike (level) put your hands in your lap, close you eyes and find a comfortable position. Now open your eyes and reach for the handle bars. If you have to move your upper body forward to reach the bars they are to far away. Also your arms should have a comfortable bend in them.
So, now do the test again, hands in lap, eyes closed, get comfortable, this time keep your eyes closed and put your hands and arms in a comfortable position as if the bars are in your hands. now open your eyes and don't move. where your hands are now is where your handle bars need to be.
Next if there is pain between your shoulder blades the bars are to narrow, you need a wider grip stance.
Most people achieve the correct riding position with a taller and wider handle bar. These are also called apes, which is incorrect. Apes are a handle bar that places your hands higher than your shoulders.
A added benefit of a taller wider bar is increase control at low speed. The wider bar provides more leverage (less force to move) and the higher position puts you in line with stronger muscles.
Something between 12 and 14 inches usually puts yo near the right position and 6 to 8 inches wider. Any higher will move you hands from behind the fairing.
Another thing to watch is wrist angle. Pull backs will make you twist you hands out and straight bar will make you twist them in.
The test above and a buddy with a tape measure and a few measurements will get you very close to where you want to be. However pay attention to one thing. Different manufactures measure the bars differently. most have spec drawing, so make sure your comparing apples and apples.
You are going the right way, When setting up a new bike you want to get you lower body (Below the waist) First!!!
The next step is is to get your mid and upper body comfortable. If you mid to lower back hurts this is because you are having to reach for the handle bar.
A good test is to set on the bike (level) put your hands in your lap, close you eyes and find a comfortable position. Now open your eyes and reach for the handle bars. If you have to move your upper body forward to reach the bars they are to far away. Also your arms should have a comfortable bend in them.
So, now do the test again, hands in lap, eyes closed, get comfortable, this time keep your eyes closed and put your hands and arms in a comfortable position as if the bars are in your hands. now open your eyes and don't move. where your hands are now is where your handle bars need to be.
Next if there is pain between your shoulder blades the bars are to narrow, you need a wider grip stance.
Most people achieve the correct riding position with a taller and wider handle bar. These are also called apes, which is incorrect. Apes are a handle bar that places your hands higher than your shoulders.
A added benefit of a taller wider bar is increase control at low speed. The wider bar provides more leverage (less force to move) and the higher position puts you in line with stronger muscles.
Something between 12 and 14 inches usually puts yo near the right position and 6 to 8 inches wider. Any higher will move you hands from behind the fairing.
Another thing to watch is wrist angle. Pull backs will make you twist you hands out and straight bar will make you twist them in.
The test above and a buddy with a tape measure and a few measurements will get you very close to where you want to be. However pay attention to one thing. Different manufactures measure the bars differently. most have spec drawing, so make sure your comparing apples and apples.
#7