Just thought I'd throw this out but a concern (at least for me) is resale value of a trailer when you get ready to sell or trade.
While 7'x12' may be a good size for you, a 7'x14' would have be easier to sale and would have more resale value as it is easier to load two "full dressers" into it vs a 7'x12'.
My riding partner as a 7'x12' and we can get both of our bikes into it, BUT it is a very tight fit and requires a lot of muscle to properly position the bikes to be strapped down for safe transportation.
My last enclosed trailer was a 6'x20 V-nose snowmobile trailer, which worked great for hauling two bikes (end-to-end) with plenty of room that allowed easy access to tie-down hooks and straps.
The other consideration should be aluminum vs steel.
Aluminum definitely costs more to purchase however, it is also lighter and if you are planning on using it a lot, will save you some money in fuel, and the resale value is much better than it is for a steel trailer.
Your situation is similar to mine. I live in Kansas City, MO and we can have some cold winters. My wife and I bought a Park Model RV in Phoenix. Not a bad deal, we paid 12,000 and the rent is about 4200 a year for the lot. We will be snowbirds spending late December through April there. I did not want to be riding the TG to Phoenix in late Dec, so I bought a 6'x12' V-Nose trailer to haul it.
Living down there during the winter I can ride all year. The width is tight, but it will work and I plan to fix it up a little so that we can also use it for light camping such as a Sturgis trip including a dry place to sleep, some electrical connections (I bought the electric package with it) and other comfort items. We will also be able to haul the other "stuff" when we head to Phoenix. I found another internet forum with some great advice for Cargo Trailer Conversions (CTC) that will guide me as I set it up. It's at
I ended up getting an Arising 7x12 V-nose tandem for a good deal, but had to drive 250 miles to a WV dealer to get it. Better than a buck fifty a mile to have it delivered from Georgia, though, and a good shake down cruise. Yes I tightened the lug nuts at 10, 50 and 100 miles, plus when I got home. The Jeep did fine, could hardly tell it was there except for the receiver flopping around a bit with it unloaded. Hills were no problem. Mileage dropped of course.
After some prep work (finding and marking centerline and axle center lines, adding stabilizer jacks, making a transition gap filler) I drove up into it the other day. No issues with clearance anywhere, didn't move 1/8" with the stabilizers down.
I drove it forward so that the passenger board mounts were about a foot forward of the center of the axles. Tying the rear end down was no problem with straps hooked between the frame loops and the corner D-rings.
I need to adjust the position to hit a tongue weight of about 360 pounds, so haven't mounted the chock yet (it's a non-capture removable one.) I'll go to the truck scales a the local elevator or truck stop to find out where to put the trike for the right weight.
So OK, where in the heck can you safely tie down the front of the TG without breaking or bending anything??? The crash bar really isn't that robust. There's a cross brace on the frame below where the crash bar mounts, but it's not that heavy and hard to get to. Can't see anywhere on the frame where it wouldn't slide around or pinch some wires/hoses.
I know I'll never accelerate as fast as I can brake (or God forbid hitting something!) so strength isn't as critical as the ones on the back. Any suggestions? Rider foot board mounts? Both through the front tire? (I have some spare D-rings I can install directly forward of it.) Thanks for any suggestions.
Oh, and for those of you who have jacked up their trikes, any guesses as to approximately where the center of gravity is? Can you reference a recognizable point on the frame or something.
Anyway, thanks for all the help, I think this is going to work great once these minor things get done. Here's some pics of her sitting in there.
So OK, where in the heck can you safely tie down the front of the TG without breaking or bending anything??? The crash bar really isn't that robust. There's a cross brace on the frame below where the crash bar mounts, but it's not that heavy and hard to get to. Can't see anywhere on the frame where it wouldn't slide around or pinch some wires/hoses.
Strap it though the front wheel, Careful so you don't hit the Rotors. And put a
Towel or soft rag between the strap and wheel so the strap doesn't mar the rim....Thats the way i do it....
i think the center of gravity on the trikes is right where the swingarm pivot is or under the transmission. and even then it wants to tilt to the rear alittle.
Last edited by hardheaded; 11-22-2017 at 11:18 AM.
I secure my straps to the tie down rings near the rear axle. I tie both the fwd and rear straps to the same rings and then wrap a third strap around my wheel and chock foe extra measure. Put it in gear, set the parking brake, AND PUT THE BIKE IN TRANSIT MODE FOR THE ALARM!!!!!!
Thanks folks, great advice as always. I'll add a couple of those d-rings in front of the front wheel and use those. Since I bought four and there was already one in each corner, I'll mount the other two midway on the sides, then my son and others can use it for their bikes and other toys.
I'll start with where you guys said was about the center of gravity maybe a foot forward of the mid point between the two trailer axles.
I use a Condor chock but not the clam part, so the tire can roll freely in & out. I have a piece of e-trac on each side of the chock and extending about a foot to the front of it. I use 2 rachet straps and towels or strap covers, and run both through the front wheel, pulling forward (one rachet on one side and the other on the other side). Both straps are pulling to different tiedowns on the e-tracs. Double strap on the front might be over kill, but that is just me. No loading the front suspension this way.
09-28-2017, 09:30 PM
