'14 Motor Trike Reverse Install (Long)
 

Ok folks, here's the results of my Motor Trike Mechanical Reverse install on a '14 TG.


First off I plan to do a full write-up with pics WHEN I have time but that won't happen for a while. Too much going on between work and personal life, seems like every minute is taken with something.


Kit used: MTTR-0024. There are different kits for different years. '14 is a year all to it's own.


On to the install. Motor Trike's installation manual is very thorough and detailed. Some areas could stand an update, especially in the wiring area.


It is very important to understand, if you don't have a relatively well equipped shop, good mechanical skills and a shop service manual, you would probably want to farm out this install. On a 10 scale I would give it's difficulty and knowledge level to be a 6 and I've been working on these things since I was a teenager.


Step 1. Get all your "stuff" together. You will need a various assortment of wrenches, sockets and torque wrenches. Plus, blue locktite, a quart of whatever you use in the tranny, brake parts cleaner, rags, exhaust gasket kit and clamps if you are going to replace them. I always use a James Gasket Kit (JP 214-231) which comes with copper crush gaskets and new nuts.


Step 2. You need to get the trike in the air for ease of working. A lift table would be great but I don't have one so I pull the rear wheels up on car ramps then jack it up and place jack stands under the axle. Then I use a floor jack and block of wood to bring the front up and place jack stands under the front frame, putting the trike 18 to 24" in the air. Just makes it easier, especially when you're a big guy like me.


An actual bike or trike lift to me gets in the way here. That's why I do it this way.


Step 3. Disconnect battery, remove the exhaust, all of it including header pipe. Hardest part? Getting the muffler mounting bolts out from under the back. Seriously Harley could have come up with something better here.


Step 4. Drain the tranny oil and remove the decorative chrome cover to expose the clutch slave.


Step 5. Remove the clutch slave cylinder plate and tie to the side. This exposes the two shafts. DO NOT touch the clutch while the slave is out.


Step 6. Remove the clutch rod from center of the rear shaft. Here's one area where the instructions need an update with new pics. This is two parts a short slinger of sorts and the long clutch rod. Both of mine came out together but it could take a small magnet (smaller than a pencil) to pull out the long rod. The long rod will be replaced by a new one included in the kit.


Step 7. Remove the two shaft nuts. They are TIGHT. I popped them off with an impact however I don't recommend this approach.


Step 8. Clean shaft threads thoroughly with brake parts cleaner


Step 9. Following the instructions, install the two gears included with the kit using the red locktite and special installation tool included. Torque to specs in the instructions, 75 ft. lbs. I used a 1/2" torque wrench with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter.


Step 10. This is the real tricky and delicate part. Insert the provided foam plug into the clutch rod hole and pack everything around the gears with rags as much as possible. Get the included boring tool and chuck it up in a drill. Use the install tool as a guide on the rear gear and bore the two pin holes into the main shaft. These two holes need to be aligned almost dead nuts. The drill needs to be held perfectly level and straight when boring. If I was doing this again, I would get a portable drill press with pivot head and perform the task. Holes need to be at least .875 deep measured from the gear face.


Step 11. Once the holes are drilled, use brake parts cleaner and a magnet to remove all the metal shavings. Then install the two locking pins with red Loctite.


Step 12. Install the new, long, clutch rod from kit and the short, slinger part removed earlier.


Step 13. Install the reverse mechanism


Step 14. Install the clutch slave housing and cylinder using bolts from the kit with blue Loctite, torque to specs


Step 15. Install the chrome cover and torque


Step 16. Work the clutch several times to rebuild pressure and make sure everything works as it should


Step 17. Follow instructions to install wiring. You have to splice into the white wire on the neutral safety switch and splice into the red coil wire. To access the coil wire, I had to remove the battery and coil. These two splices connect to appropriate connectors in the kit wiring harness


Step 18. Insert the adapter harness into the 6 pin rear light connector at the bottom, outside of the tour pack and connect it into the harness


Step 19. Find somewhere to mount the relays. Personally I tye-wrapped mine to the frame under the seat. I plan to make some aluminum mounts for these when I have time.


Step 20. Re-install the exhaust system, heat shields, battery, etc


Step 21. Fill the tranny with oil!


Step 22. Follow the instructions and test the reverse and interlock operation


Overall it wasn't a bad install. due to time constraints I had to perform the tasks over a period of several days. If I had time, the complete install could have been finished in about 6 hours, maybe less. Removing and reinstalling the exhaust system is the most time consuming part.


Operation is wonderful! Place tranny in neutral, pull in clutch, push down ball on reverse lever and push forward. Slowly release clutch to back up. When finished, pull lever back and go on about your business. If you do attempt to place the tranny in gear while reverse is engaged, interlocks will shut down the engine immediately.


I refilled my tranny with Red Line and after I put a couple hundred miles on it, plan to change it again just to make sure all contaminants are out of the tranny.


Once I get a full write up done with pics, I will post a link.


Here's a link to the Motor Trike Install Instructions:


http://www.motortrike.com/docs2/HARL...ED_REV%20C.pdf

Nice Review
 

I was glad to see you post this update. I might end up doing this one day when my reverse motor goes south. I agree with you about the dang head pipe and mufflers....PITA... for sure. I hate having to take them off. Well, at anywhere from $80.00 to $125.00 per hour labor rates, you saved yourself a bunch of money and you know it was done correctly. Would love to see the pics when you get time. Congratulations. :icon_toast:

Nice write up. Keep us posted on long term use....I too will go this route when reverse gives up and no warranty

After you started the thread I took a look at the Baker. I think I will go Mechanical when the time comes.

You might price a Baker unit first, as it's considerably more expensive. It's also much more difficult to install. Just something to consider.

I went with a Champion reverse. Those have been around,for a long time, and installation is much simpler. It doesn't have a reverse-lockout but I didn't care.

I looked at the Baker and decided against it for two reasons. #1. You have to go completely into the transmission, pull the main shafts, primary, shift forks and the like. I can do all of this but really don't want to tear apart a perfectly good tranny just to install reverse. Lots of time to do the Baker. #2. Cost. The Baker Kit is over $2000 with minimal options.


My total cost for everything except my time was less than $1300. That included the reverse kit, tranny fluid, new header gaskets and all new stainless exhaust clamps.


I also looked at the Champion kit and it for the '14 and up Rushmore's with hydraulic clutch is virtually identical to Motor Trike's. I got the MT cheaper by about $100. Champion has the interlock now but on either one you don't have to install it. It's not mandatory.

Hannigan offers the Champion unit, as an option, so that's why I went with it.

I considered MT for a trike conversion but when I called them for info, they completely turned me off on that idea.