More pics I forgot, this is just after I got it and got the floor painted, some extra tie-downs added, the chock mounted and a few other things.
Reinforced beaver tail, anti-slip strips for the rears, floor and deck paint.
You can see the stock rear tie-downs that I use for the rear end, 5000 pound rated straps going to the tie-down loops on the bottom of the trike. I'm going to cross them over from now on.
From the side door, chock final location and the spare tire mount. All just painted at the time, you can see the masking tape is still on it.
Spare holder. The chock is removable, and has significant structure under the floor holding it down, it's not going anywhere. No, it's' not quite installed yet here, the mount holes were still stuffed with masking tape for floor painting. In actuality those pins go down and slide towards the front, their T shape keeps them in the brackets. Then screws go down through the front of the chocks, next to the rubber ends, and lock the pins in the brackets. In my case, luckily, they went right down into the frame, had to use self-tapping screws. Really strong, removes in two minutes.
You can see the chock, and under the masking tape are the stock tie-downs along the sides, and the two extra tie-downs I added up in the nose; their straps both go through the front wheel spokes, protected by a towel, and some of the permanent cleats and other small tie-downs on the walls
Last edited by Oogie Wa Wa; 03-20-2019 at 11:12 PM.
I've been hauling motorcycles for years and the only issue that I've ever had was due to my using tie-downs with a "S" hook and not putting enough torque on the strap allowing it to come loose.
H-D (and others) makes a hook that has a "safety spring clip" that prevents this from happening. Well worth the cost!
As for flatbed trailers. I have heavy duty JP 20' landscape trailer with tandem axles and I use EZ Track's to anchor the tie-downs.
I have the removable Pingle wheel chocks and I cut and placed the EZ track pieces to allow for two dressers on the front and two cruisers on the rear.
I've had two dressers and one Softail on it at the same time and there was virtually no difference in the way the trailer looked or pulled.
I used a 1/2 sheet of marine plywood as a stone guard and sloped it a the top to help deflect wind and road debris.
I have a question for those who may have trailered TWO Tri-Glides in an enclosed trailer.
Like a dummy I sold my '6x20' V-Nose snowmobile trailer several years ago when I got rid of the sleds.
As I have posted earlier, I now transport my bikes/trike on a flatbed landscape trailer but I' seriously considering buying another enclosed trailer with the possibility of trailering south for some fall/winter riding.
I know that I want a 7' wide enclosed trailer but what is the consensus on the required minimum length needed to safely transport two Tri-Glides?
Something I'd definitely do before ordering is put them front to back with enough gap to get between them and see how long you'll need as a minimum. Add enough to get your straps to the proper tie-downs. You need to make sure you can get the right angle.
I've got a couple feet extra at each end of my trike in a 14x7V, which is fine because of all the crap we take with us when wintering in Florida. I had to add a couple of in-floor D-rings to mine in the right spots. Fortunately I could bolt them directly to the frame or a frame plate..
Something I'd definitely do before ordering is put them front to back with enough gap to get between them and see how long you'll need as a minimum. Add enough to get your straps to the proper tie-downs. You need to make sure you can get the right angle.
I've got a couple feet extra at each end of my trike in a 14x7V, which is fine because of all the crap we take with us when wintering in Florida. I had to add a couple of in-floor D-rings to mine in the right spots. Fortunately I could bolt them directly to the frame or a frame plate..
My cousin says that he can get his Tri-Glide and his wife's FW in his 14'x7' "V" enclosed but it's such a tight fit that he'd be afraid to haul them together in that trailer so he's now looking for a 7'x16' "v" but
Personally IMHO. pulling larger trailer (7'x19 or an 8'x20') wouldn't make that much of a difference in fuel mileage but I don't want a flat nose or an 8'-8"-1/2 wide trailer or a high roof and when you start shopping (new or used) for a trailer that can be a big difference in both price and availability.
Most people that have the larger trailers either want to keep them, or want to get as much for them as what they cost new and I can't see spending a small fortune for something that I may only use a few times per year.
I may well end up with a nice 7'x16' IF I can first see how my cousin's plan works out
Love your Tri Glide hauler. I built one a while back from a 6 x 12 tandem cargo trailer. I have since sold it and bough a Jayco toyhauler, but it was fun building it and using it. I would suggest considering some E-Track installation. They are fairly cheap and very multi-use. I am attaching a picture from my build showing some of the uses. Have fun.
Did not read every word of this thread but did not notice if you have paid attention to the single most critical detail of towing.
The tires.
Your trailer most likely came with cheap china made load range C ST tires that WILL fail, only a matter of time. When one explodes it will also take out your nice fender. I have spend decades trailering boats, cars, and now motorcycles all over the USA and I recommend the following:
- Go get 4 Goodyear Endurance load range D tires put on. They are USA made and if you check the RV and boat forums you will find they are the gold standard.
- Carry 2 spares.
- Carry a bottle jack that will lift the trailer WITH the load in it.
- Carry a 12V compressor that can top off a tire up to 65 psi
- Check inflation religiously. Always inflate to the max PSI shown on the sidewall (65 psi for load range D) Don't forget to check the spares.
Finally, tongue weight is your friend for stability. Position the trike as far forward as possible. This will help balance out the weight you put in back. I have a 16 x 7 V nose that I carry my FLRT back and forth to my winter digs in FL. I have my roller toolbox (700 lb or so.) and a 12 KW generator riding in the back.
Did not read every word of this thread but did not notice if you have paid attention to the single most critical detail of towing.
The tires.
Your trailer most likely came with cheap china made load range C ST tires that WILL fail, only a matter of time. When one explodes it will also take out your nice fender. I have spend decades trailering boats, cars, and now motorcycles all over the USA and I recommend the following:
- Go get 4 Goodyear Endurance load range D tires put on. They are USA made and if you check the RV and boat forums you will find they are the gold standard.
- Carry 2 spares.
- Carry a bottle jack that will lift the trailer WITH the load in it.
- Carry a 12V compressor that can top off a tire up to 65 psi
- Check inflation religiously. Always inflate to the max PSI shown on the sidewall (65 psi for load range D) Don't forget to check the spares.
Finally, tongue weight is your friend for stability. Position the trike as far forward as possible. This will help balance out the weight you put in back. I have a 16 x 7 V nose that I carry my FLRT back and forth to my winter digs in FL. I have my roller toolbox (700 lb or so.) and a 12 KW generator riding in the back.
I definitely agree about switching to better tires. The cheap tires on my last new trailer were toast, after less than 5K miles. Switched to Kumhos and never had another issue.
03-20-2019, 11:04 PM
