I've always followed the S&S way of breaking an engine in. A brand new engine i've always started and ran for maybe 60 seconds and let completely cool. Then run it alittle longer the next time and then let it completely cool again. Doing this several times lets all the gaskets take a "set" and keeps the rings cool. Change oil at 50 miles while taking it easy on the engine. S&S wants you to break it in for 2000 miles. They been building engines for a long time and i think i will continue to follow their guide lines. Been working well for me for over 50 years.

 

Just ride it. There is no magic break in

 

I've been buying and riding Harley's since the '75 model year.

I pretty much ride them as the owner's manual(s) have suggested and of all the bikes I've owned, all but one were new bikes and of those I only had one major engine issue and it was on an AMF, '75 Electra-Glide (74/1200 engine).
Total upper engine replacement (by the dealer), which was due to poor quality/workmanship within the first 1000 miles and it ran like a champ afterwards! I had two other AMF bikes with NO issues

I will agree that engines should not be "lugged", but it should also not be ran at extreme RPM's for prolonged periods of time, especially in the lower gears.

I've owned Shovelheads, EVO's, T/C 88's, T/C 96's, S/E 110. and now a 107 in my Tri-Glide and most of the miles that I've put on all of these bikes has been under 4,000 RPM's, while occasionally "blowing the carbon out of the engine".
If you want long engine life, use the transmission as it was designed for and always make sure that you have clean. quality oil and oil filters.

 

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I never heard of those issues.

 

There is a time proven scheme most serious mechanics, the factory, all the aftermarket motor manufacturers, most reputable re-builders recommend and it's in print from multiple sources including S&S, the factory manual and handbook and not one of them says what you do. Why is that ?

This arguments as old as internal combustion engines and the hardhead's who ride them. Your bike you can break it in and ride it anyway you want but for fuq's sake please refrain from spreading that bullshit myth to the uneducated asking an honest question looking a knowledgeable answer.

 

Strange how when I purchased a new riding lawn mower as soon as it is started it is running at full speed no break in period. Had it 9 years mowing 2 ac. and gave it to a friend when I moved and it is still running. I'm not suggesting running a bike at full RPM but rather driving it like you would all the time. When I owned Jap bikes the first oil change was at 50 miles. Can't believe the fine metal particles the filter misses from the transmission gears mating together. Changed the oils on the HD at 600 miles for the first time. I do think that you shouldn't get into it so to speak until the motor is warmed up. That way all the parts that need to expand when at running temps. have done so. Just my way of doing things. Like it has been previously stated. Its your bike so operate it the way you want to.

 

 

First of all the lawn mower engine isn't revving to it's top RPM. It is in the best RPM for the best horsepower. there is lots more RPM left there That is actually where the engine can run free without the load it would have at a lower RPM. Also the fan on the flywheel has to turn faster than idle, or just above to cool the engine.And once it is in position to mow grass, it stays at a set speed.LOL !!
Also all those metal pieces aren't what is wearing off of parts as much as crap being left in from machining parts and not cleaning everything off. But there is some that is wear in from everywhere.

 

Great debate here fellows. However the Headline most likely should be “What type rider causes his motor to foul plugs and blow smoke?”

It ain’t a TG or other Harley that ‘farts and blows’ on it’s own.

BTW if you have ever seen the motors run-out prior to shippment from the factory you would see them reved to 4000 through each gear on the final assembly line. BUT ONLY FOR A VERY FEW SECONDS. They the manual tells what you are to do to manage the final break-in on your own.

Also from what has been argued here, most H-D motors will survive whichever way you treat them, but if a problem arises and they can determine you have done contrary to the manual, then you are ON YOUR OWN and will become another one who BLAMES the VICTIM. My 2c.

 

When I said break it in Fast and it will run fast, that has its limitations. It doesn't mean run the **** out of it and put it away wet.