pit bull motorcycle lift has a adapter for there for tri glides

 

I bought the pitt bull with the TG adapter and it works great.

 

When I put mine up on ramps, I use the MC jack under the front of the frame to pick up the front enough to place a ramp under the front wheel. If I need to do anything on the engine, or forward of the trunk.
The trike doesn't want to pick itself up all three ramps at one time ! But it will roll down all three fine backwards.
A caution though, lock the rear brakes or in gear or both when you try jacking up the front while it is tilted forward !
I use the steel ramps, as I just can't trust plastic to protect my life. & bike !
Also I use a roller seat to scoot around the floor while on the ramps. Just right height.
I have a lift, but it is only rated for 1000#. Also it isn't a trike lift. I plan on building one for the trike though. Once you get used to a lift table, there isn't much replacement for it !
Just a tidbit of odd info.... If you place a dime tight against each wheel, front and back on all wheels, on a diesel 6000hp locomotive,,,, It can't move, or pick itself up over the dimes !

 

Just checkin in to see if anyone has invented a way to lift the trike to install lift kit. I have the red sears lift and will try to do it with that and a bit of jacking engineering along with it. I would love to buy the J $ S trike jack but don't know how much I would really use it ?

Some use the cross braces under
some say don't
some say use differential to jack
some say no
the service manual is a bit vague
some say it shows how
some say jack one side at time and jack stand
Ramps don't allow tire removal
So that's where we are at?

 

I don't like driving mine on to ramps, to easy to make a mistake, I took two 5" 2x4 blocks and drilled several holes through them in the middle for a slot that the tie down rings on the rear will go thru. I then jack up the rear with two small [ton and 1/2'] floor jacks [$69] on the wooden blocks and put the ramps under the rear wheels and let the trike down, then I raise the frt. wheel the normal the way and install a ramp under it and let it down, I then put a plastic stay on the frt. brake handle. sounds like a lot, but takes about five minute and is a lot safer then trying to drive it or back it up the ramps.

I do reverse the 'frt. ramp' where it does not get in the way of the oil pan.

it's a one man, five minute job. JMO

 

Tie down rings?
On the trike
Under it?
I don't have one to look at until march 1st
Next Saturday .
Still winter but at least I can look at it!
Hap

 

Hap,
When you look under the rear of the trike you will see two tie down rings, one on ea. side near the wheels, cant miss them, that is a strong point,
I drilled out a slot where it would not bend the tie down rings plus give the two 5" blocks a level place to jack, plus the tie down rings will hold the blocks in place, ....March the 1st is coming fast , good luck.

 

I've done this on two garage floors and it is relatively simple. This is if you are OK with drilling two deep half-inch holes in your garage floor.
With a half inch concrete drill bit, drill two holes in the floor, 2 inches deep (length of shield), and about 30 inches apart. Sink two half inch lag shields into the holes until they are flush with the floor. I like to smear a little left-over grout around each shield to keep them secure. Screw quarter inch (or whatever fits the shields) screw eyes into the shields until flush and tight. Position front wheel of trike between each screw eye. Feed a ratcheting tie-down smart strap with hooks on each end (cheap at Lowes or Harbor Freight) through the front wheel spoke. Work the ratchet until strap is tight and wheel won't budge. The lateral force on the screw eyes will not pull them out of the floor. I also like to Velcro the front brake so the wheel won't roll. When you are finished working on the trike, you can remove the screw eyes and replace with lag bolts if you don't want to trip over the screw eyes.

 

Slou your a great wealth of info, but gotta call ya on this. I was a locomotove engineer for BNSF for 16 years. I find that very hard to believe. I can pull a fully loaded coal train (we're talking in excess of 10k tons of train here) up a 5% grade at a standstill..I am sure I could get over some dimes

Rax

 

Dude! That's a lot of investment to change your own oil!