Originally Posted by vanceandhines

AutoTune
Introduction

One of the many benefits of the Fuelpak FP3 is the AutoTune feature. This feature allows users to precisely tune their motorcycle for their intake and exhaust combination, avoiding the costly and demanding dyno runs or the installation of additional equipment. AutoTune can also help international users tune their motorcycle for the specific fuel blends available in their area.
When to use it/not to use it:

AutoTune can be utilized where a Vance & Hines map is not provided or to further fine tune a specific intake and exhaust combination to the unique variations of an individual bike.
Most combinations can be cross referenced with one of numerous maps Vance & Hines provides. The AutoTune works best with an existing map from the Vance & Hines database. This will now utilize specifically tuned ignition tables, Accel Enrichment, Decel Enleanment, AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) Tables and Rev Limit changes, to facilitate calibrating the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) Tables. AutoTune calibrates the VE tables with a unique V&H developed algorithm for fast and accurate tuning.

How it works:

To understand how AutoTune works, the differences between calibrating a bike's ECM and tuning a motorcycle must be defined. The ECM knows what volume of air is flowing through the engine for the stock intake and exhaust systems. However, when the intake and/or exhaust systems change, the Volumetric Efficiency of the cylinders change. AutoTune properly calibrates the Volumetric Efficiency Tables by utilizing the high precision range of the the factory narrowband O2 sensors to target the optimum Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 14.4. When the bike is in AutoTune mode it monitors the difference of the O2 voltages above or below the 14.4 desired AFR. These differences are recorded, calculated and VE tables change. After calibration, the FP3 can change the AFR. For example, richer AFR can be selected for better power and engine running, or a leaner AFR in some areas during light loads and cruising for fuel economy.
While running AutoTune, FP3 is calculating VE Table/tables and other aspects of the ECM settings. Which comprise the tuning of the motorcycle. These changes are saved and not made in real time. Volumetric Efficiency ables are modified AFTER "Apply Learned Values" or "Finish" has been selected. Then flash the calibrated map to the ECM.


How to Use It:
Select a map to tune

When entering Autotune for the first time, you will need to select a map to start from. The maps listed are all the maps stored on your FP3. Choose the map and press continue.
Flashing the new map (what changes are made)
After selecting a starting map, the app loads this map to the autotune memory and prepares it for the autotuning session. Changes include setting the AFR table to closed loop everywhere and zeroing out the transient fueling. During the AutoTune process the Accel Enrichment and Decel Enleanment will be shut off to avoid erroneous readings. The overall riding experience is not optimized. This DOES NOT reflect the way the bike will run after the AutoTune tables have been populated with the learned values. This is only a temporary condition.

Recommendations for Best AutoTune Results

These changes are then flashed to the ECU (follow the on-screen prompts to complete the flashing operation). After flashing the Autotune map, the app presents a grid of white squares. You are now ready to ride and begin the tuning process. The bike will need to be warmed up to normal operating temperature (approx 200 deg F) before autotune will begin. As you ride, the squares will turn orange or green. White squares are completely unlearned cells. Orange indicates partially learned. Green squares are completely learned. Once a square turns green, the learning for that cell is complete and additional riding in that zone will not refine the learned value. You do not need to keep your phone on and the FP3 app active during the autotune process. However, if you have a way to display the screen while riding, it can be informative to see areas that are learned and what other areas you need to cover. The FP3 unit will need to be plugged into the bike for autotuning to occur. Do not be concerned if you need to turn the bike off - the FP3 will pick up the tuning process once the engine is restarted and the engine is up to temperature.
Riding recommendations (what to expect and what the map will look like. What you can and can’t do in the app.)
When riding during the autotune process, you will want to cover as many different throttle angle and rpm combinations as possible. You will not want to use cruise control. Ride up and down some hills in addition to stop-and-go traffic and freeway miles. Avoid abrupt throttle changes so the FP3 can adequately sample each cell. Try to cover as many of the cells as is possible, but there is no need (nor is it even possible) to cover every cell. Most riders can get good results in three 30-45 minute sessions of riding. All cells do not need to be green to have a complete autotune session. Normal Autotune session will show mostly green with 25-30% orange. The shape of the colored cells in the Autotune grid should resemble a football shape. Low throttle positions/low rpm (top left) to high throttle positions/high rpm (bottom right). See below for an example (results may vary).


While the FP3 is in the autotune mode, you will not be able to access certain portions of the app. You will not be able to view/edit maps nor will you be able to search for a new map.
Once FP3 has learned a number of cells, you can “apply” or “finish” the autotuning session. When you first ride the bike in autotune be aware that the characteristics are often quite different so start out slowly.

Applying the changes
If you “apply” the autotuning values, a new map is created and flashed to the bike. Follow the on-screen dialogs during this process. After applying the learned values, the FP3 remains in Autotune mode and will continue to learn. The “apply” function should only be used if you will immediately be starting another autotune session. If you are done riding for the day or have completed your second autotune session you should complete the autotuning session by “finishing” the session.
Finishing Autotune
Finishing the Autotune session applies any learned values (just like in the apply process) and also returns the AFR table and transient fuel to their original values. This new, final map is then flashed to the bike (follow the on-screen dialogs to complete this process). FP3 is then taken out of Autotune mode. After the VE Tables have been calibrated and saved to the map, the AFR tables can be tailored to individual rider preference or better developed by dyno pros. The AFR tables of a Vance & Hines map have been set to a custom blend offering a combination of WOT performance and part throttle economy.

Originally Posted by HDD08

I have an 08 Softail Deluxe (10,300 Km) Long Shots, SE Air Cleaner, STD 96" TWC. I've purchased a V&H Fuelpack FP3 & chose a base map to suite.

The bike came with a SERT, had a horrible coarse sound from the Engine, struggled to pull 6th gear & felt like the Engine was going to let go! Could only manage 110km in 5th....... 🤔

Done some research and decided to go with the FP3, since install....... WOW! So much smoother & actually runs really nice, 6th gear not a problem 👌

Here's the thing, since installing the map, bike runs really rich on start up (Hot) and pre Ignights & struggled to idle once it fires. V&H have provided an update file (loaded today) and still does the same thing. I tried Auto tune today (one tank of fuel - 4hrs) had a good looking graph, most green cells but still a lot of Orange (Not what you would call a foot ball). Decided to Apply learned values then continued on with Auto tune, on second attempt, I struggled to create orange cells, once shadowed over same orange cell it disappeared? Wouldn't go back orange or green? Phone was about flat so I Exited Auto tune then phone went flat/ shut down.
Reading your above notes, this shouldn't be an issue? Can i continue with this file next ride and use Auto tune without loosing learnt cells?

☆Forgot to mention, bike starts better on Auto tune (Hot) than running on base tune with learnt cells?


Adjusting the o2 Sensor voltage .08V ,do you have to rest back to given value after Auto tune?

Have emailed V&H again today with feedback, be nice to get it sorted.

Originally Posted by HDD08

Can i continue with this file next ride and use Auto tune without loosing learnt cells?

☆Forgot to mention, bike starts better on Auto tune (Hot) than running on base tune with learnt cells?

Adjusting the o2 Sensor voltage .08V ,do you have to rest back to given value after Auto tune?

Have emailed V&H again today with feedback, be nice to get it sorted.

Originally Posted by SNDSLGR

After using a FP3 on my '15 ultra limited I talked a friend into buying one for his '08 Street Glide.


He has been trying for 10 months on and off to get a good autotune. The canned map gave some nice improvement but like the rest of us he wants to use all the features the FP3 offers.


He can initialize the autotune and it populates cells but will not EVER turn a cell green, not one. I can get 5-10 green cells in 10 min on mine. ( I get they are different bikes and mine is more modern but come on) ZERO green cells in what must be hundreds of miles by now.


After talking with VH many times he has changed his plugs, tried altering the O2 sensor voltage, and now has installed new O2 sensors. Nothing!


Anyone else have this trouble? VH seems to keep putting him off without much action, its your android (tried other phones including Iphone) ...working on it... must be the bike...adjust the O2 values etc.


At this point I think its time for them to step up and ship him a new unit to try out if they cant answer what is causing this malfunction.


No trouble codes, bike runs very well, 08 Street glide, K&N filter, otherwise all stock.

Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy

For a cell to be learnt requires for an unspecified period of time the engine rpm and throttle position to not change.

The last picture shows you are using a very small part of the available revs and throttle position.

I can only suggest you find a very long uphill stretch of road and try and hold various throttle positions. The uphill will allow for keeping the revs down whilst needing higher throttle openings that will allow for a good number of cells to be hit.

Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy

Holding a steady speed will see a steady rpm and therefore a very narrow part of the table populated. You need to vary things from tick-over to WOT as you feel comfortable.

Based on what you have done if you continued until you get rid of the bike will yield the same result you are seeing. The instructions may be a bit vague as to how you need to hit more cells.

On the flat will see the engine unloaded and so as the revs climb quickly will see you change gear early hence steep hills help.

In summary you need variety at all speeds.