im not too familiar with these models- im hoping to be familiar with one in the future- but if the clutch is giving you grief- why dont you try to adjust it? I dont know what the adjustment procedure is on these rides- is it difficult? Seems thats where the problem is..... Someone could have been in there before and f'd up the adjustment or crushed your throwout bearing (if equipped with one?). Like i said- not too familiar with vrods (yet)

 

This is a hydraulic clutch not a cable clutch. I don't believe there is an adjustment. The more I look at the way the clutch system works, I'm thinking I have an issue with the distance collar (part #36707-01) and /or thrust washer (part #36709-01). Something is creating major drag when the clutch assembly (i.e. the self contained unit consisting of the hub, friction plates, steels and pressure plate) is engaged. Here's my theory:
Since the bike doesn't stall when the clutch is disengaged (clutch lever pulled), that removes the clutch basket from the issue since it's a direct drive from the crank gear. If there was a restriction with the basket then the bike would never stay running. Plus I would think there would be a nasty metal on metal sound coming from the clutch area. When the clutch assembly is fully engaged (clutch lever all the way out), the assembly spins at the same speed as the clutch basket. This is when the bike stalls. If the clutch lever is slightly pulled (riding the clutch) then the clutch assembly no longer spins at the same speed as the clutch basket. Which in turn creates less restriction or drag on the engine (crank gear). Bike doesn't stall. As I'm looking at the parts diagram, I see a part called a distance collar. As far as I can tell the hub of the clutch assembly bolts tightly against this collar and the collar rides against a thrust washer. If these two parts are worn, frozen or restricting in any way my guess is it will cause significant restriction/drag on the engine. If it's not this then it's beyond the clutch area and into the input and output shaft of the tranny (God I hope not). In addition the bike rolls very freely when in neutral so there is no restriction at the back wheel or front sprocket.
Also my brother took the bike out yesterday. He started out in second gear so he wouldn't spin the tire as much when giving it more throttle than normal. He was able to let the clutch lever all the way out without the bike cutting out but he said you can clearly feel major drag (almost like pulling a heavy object behind you). He had to give it more than normal throttle to keep it from stalling.
I hope my theory and the additional information (symptom) may help with trying to solve this issue before I tear into it this weekend.

 

Thanks to Ronnie's HD for the clutch assembly parts diagram image.

 

Sorry- hydraulic clutch- no adjustment- got it. I plead ignorance on that one. Your analysis and deductive reasoning seems valid to me- still seems to point to something in the clutch. I see it has a bleeder screw- maybe a bleed is in order? Simple stuff first right? If you pull the spark plugs out- put it in 5th gear- can you rotate the motor by hand with the rear wheel? Does it feel bound up- or free? If it feels pretty free with no weird noises - it may ease your mind about the input shaft. You may need to disassemble the clutch and actuator parts to inspect (like you mentioned). Id try a bleed first- couldnt hurt... JMO

 

Can you keep the bike from stalling by adding a lot more RPM?

Put the bike on a lift with the real wheel off the ground and try to replicate the problem.

 

Does it stall in neutral with clutch out all the way? If not, it's not what you think.

 

Issue solved!!! It was the clutch assembly. All the clutch and friction plates were brand new and at first inspection everything looked correct. After disassembling then reassembling the clutch assembly here's what was found: (I hope I can explain this clearly)

The clutch pressure plate (PP #8... see attachment in post #13) wasn't originally reassembled correctly to the clutch hub (#6). The PP can be mounted in 5 different positions to the hub due to the 5 spring studs on the PP. These spring studs protrude through 5 holes in the center of the hub. It WILL go together in any position but only one position will lock the small nubs on the face of the PP (where a friction plate (#17) rides) into the outside notches of the hub (where the clutch plates (#7) slide on to the hub). If the PP isn’t locked in correctly, the PP will be about 1/32” deeper into the clutch basket (#5). This will allow the PP to BARELY rub on the inside of the basket when the clutch lever is fully released. This causes enough drag to cause the engine to stall without applying abnormal amounts of throttle. I hope I described it well enough for people to follow.

Bottom line…….. if you plan to replace the clutch pack in your clutch, take note of the orientation of the clutch hub (#6) to the clutch PP (#8). Or take the clutch hub in one hand and the PP in the other, mate them together and twist. If they don’t lock….. turn the spring studs to the next hole in the hub and repeat. Eventually they will lock firmly together……note orientation. Assemble clutch pack.

Thank you to everybody that took time out of their day to contribute to this thread. I hope it helps others in the future.

Happy riding and be safe!!!!

 

Thats fantastic news! Great to hear it only cost you a little bit of your time. Now you can really enjoy your new ride! Great explanation BTW- im sure it can be a use to others (and myself if i buy a vrod). Thanks for updating your post! Ride on!

 

Good job Tiger!!! that's not the first time I have heard of that happening!!
Now enjoy the bike and ride safe!!

 

Glad to hear it. Nice work.