I acquired a 2002 VRSCA last month that had fuel pump issues. Fixed the fuel issue but now I have the following:
Bike starts, idles and revs great. Perfect fuel pressure (53 +/- 2 when throttled). Put bike in gear, slowly release clutch lever to get moving but when the clutch lever is fully released the bike stalls. Doesn't stall due to load, just stalls like the "on" switch was turned off. If the clutch lever is slightly engaged (almost like riding the clutch) the bike will run perfectly. As soon as the clutch lever is fully released....it shuts off. Still have cluster lights when is shuts down. This bike does not have a kickstand switch nor does it have a clutch lever "starter lock-out micro switch. I have the wire schematics and looking at the neutral safety switch circuit, it is only used for indication purposes. Anybody have an idea of why my bike stalls once the clutch lever is fully released?

 

Tiger
The 2002 have a 30 tooth sprocket and take a bit more revs to get them moving? It sounds like it is stalling because you don't have the revs up High enough if it starts and idles and revs ok? You are rtight there is no kind of saftey switch connected with the clutch or kickstand!

I had this happen several times when i switched out my 28 and tried the 30 tooth!
The other thing and not trying to be smart *** but make sure you are in 1st gear? It seems like a stupid suggestion but I have done that to coasting to a light and not downshifting all the way to first?
Again not to to be a smart *** or condescending but trying to help with some simple suggestions that can get overlooked?

Good luck!

 

usturbine: Thanks for your reply. It's not a matter of getting going. There's no problem getting the bike to move without stalling it on take off (on a load) in first gear. The bike will run great as long as the clutch lever is slightly pulled towards me (and when I say slightly I mean so slight that it's not disengaging the clutch). As soon as the clutch lever is released all the way it immediately stalls. Studying the wire schematic for this bike I cannot see any circuit that would "interrupt" the ignition causing the bike to shut off. Especially coming from the left hand controls. My next troubleshooting approach is to unplug the harness from the left grip and isolate each circuit (i.e. horn, headlamp hi/lo, and turn switch). Hopefully this will indicate what circuit (if any) is causing this issue. If that doesn't work I won't know what to do next.

 

Tiger
Can you ride the bike with the clutch slightly pulled in and shift gears without revving to slip the clutch? I don't know of any electrical connection to the clutch lever and the controls, its a separate Hydraulic reservoir.
Have you had the rear tire off? Is something binding when the drive train gets moving and causing it to stall? Can you tie down the front end and jack up the rear wheel and see if you can get the rear wheel to shift thru the gears?
Just some other thoughts? It appears it might be a mechanical problem in the drive train somewhere?
Again good luck!!

Dennis

 

Yes. The bike will run/ride with the clutch slightly pulled in (riding the clutch). I didn't switch gears because I didn't want to be slug off the bike or over the bars. I limped it back (1st gear) to the garage because I thought it might be an ignition "kill" circuit. After studying the wire schematic it became apparent that this bike doesn't have safety circuits (i.e. kickstand, neutral safety, starter interrupt) like newer model bikes do.
After lying in bed....rolling around the electrical and mechanical schematics in my head.... I came to the conclusion it was mechanical as well.
I'm not sure if it pertains to this bike or not, but in my many hours of research, I read that if a clutch hub is installed to tight (e.g. with an impact wrench) it can cause drag and stalling. Could this be true for this bike?
As you suggested, I will safely support the rear tire off the ground and try and run through the gears. Maybe this will shed some light on the issue. I also plan to look at the clutch to see if there is anything obvious. At the same time I will bleed the system (good time to change the fluid as well). With lady luck on my side, maybe this will solve my issue (but I'm not holding my breath).

 

Tiger
Do you know if someone has been in the clutch out for any reason? there is a specific way it goes together but the problem is usually not disengaging?
There are spacers on the rear wheel and the pulley to provide proper clearance on the ball brg's so they cant be preloaded. If someone has had the rear wheel off and didn't put the pulley spacer in it can fall out not be noticed and roll away and not be noticed?? (Don't ask me how I know)! Then when the axle is tightened it will bind the bearings! Also there are spacers on both sides between the pulley and the Brake support. If they are on the wrong side that can cause a problem as well!

Also look at the rear disc brake and make sure it isn't dragging for some reason? You should be able to spin the rear wheel fairly easy with the rear wheel off the ground? Not sure if this could cause it but if the belt is misaligned badly or way to tight could cause some issues on the drive shaft coming out of the trany and may effect the clutch action?

Just some more thoughts from working on them.
Again good luck

Dennis

 

Are you sure it is completely stock? Do you have a complete history?
Your 2002 could have been modified and a kickstand switch or a clutch lever starter lock-out micro switch added and either/or is malfunctioning. Yes, I'm grasping at straws but I've seen these bikes with extensive modifications and newer model parts added.
I would also check into the tuner - stock or after market?

 

usturbine: Thanks for the insight on the rear wheel installation. The bike moves extremely easy. I'd think if there was enough resistance to stall the bike I'd feel it. I will definitely check to see if it spins freely though. I'll also check for tension and alignment of the drive belt. Got to eliminate every possibility right? As for added or modified safety switches...... No safety switches added or clutch lever modifications. The wire harness hasn't been molested in any way.
I don't have much history on the bike. My brother acquired the bike from our cousin. My cousin purchased it from a lady in which her husband had passed away. It was stored indoors (actually in the lady's living room) and it has 20k miles on it. It probably hasn't run for a year or more (judging by the condition of the fuel pump assembly when I rebuilt it and the rank smelling fuel). I'm not sure why it sat as long as it did (especially with fuel in the tank ). I guessing the man suddenly got ill and wasn't able to properly prepare the bike for storage. Based on the cosmetic condition of this bike he really took care of it. Only blemish is dust.
This weekend we plan on taking the clutch assembly apart and inspecting everything. Then we will know if it is OEM or aftermarket. Maybe something as simple as a thrust washer was forgotten or incorrectly installed.

 

I know this is a long shot, but........check the following things:

*Battery connections at both ends, especially the ground. It's possible that the vibration with the clutch lever fully out disrupts a loose connection.*

The fuel pump connections on both ends AND everything you touched in rebuilding the fuel pump.

*My money is on this*

 

Brand new battery installed so I know the battery side is good and tight. I will track down the frame side and be sure it's clean and tight. Fuel pump harness is good and tight as well. Kept the fuel pressure gauge connected and verified no loss of fuel pressure (about 52 PSI) when the bike shut down.