Here is the thing.. The installer needs to be able to push against the inner race at the same time it pushes against the outer race. Most bearing tools relieve the area around the inner race, Now ideally that is what you want if pressing a bearing in so that the outer race seats completely, The ideal situation is to press only on the race that sees pressure and since the wheel bearings are typically seated on the outside race, that should be the only area that see pressure. Then along comes HD. Instead of cutting the inner spacer to the same length as the hub, they make the inner spacer too long. Besides having an order for which bearing gets pressed in first for wheel position, this issue means that when pressing the second bearing in, the reference point for position is becomes the inner spacer. To get the spacing right the bearing inner race has to be supported to set the second bearing depth on the spacer. Most of the tools I've seen don't do this and the outer race presses in too far causing a heavy side load on the bearing. This tension kills them.

You can screw around getting the second bearing depth right by bringing the bearing in close then testing fit but this doubles the time for wheel bearing install and leaves the chance for error. I'm sure most of the tools are screwed up like this as many times the wheel bearings appear tight if checked when changing the tire.

If George want to do it right he need to cut the pressing surface flat then only hog out the clearance between the 2 races. As stated tho, the seal rests below the bearing races. Some might be even but even that won't hurt.

 

Just a tool observation: George's and maybe some others use a thrust bearing to relieve some of the friction of screwing down on a tight bearing (if its a Harley, it should be tight), but Pit Posse (what I have) and most cheaper ones just have plain flat washers. It really takes a lot of bind out of the tool to grease every surface that rubs, including the screw threads. Also helps to put a film of anti-seize on the outer bearing race, I've seen non Harley cast wheels that really corroded around the bearing. Freezing the bearing just before installing it shrinks it a little, and can make it draw in easier, too.

Nice to have something to hold the wheel, too.

 

Since you are already using grease for lube the tool, use a little on the bearing. I used either bearing grease or machine oil. I clean the bearing areas and put the lightest coat of grease /oil in the hub.

 

What lubricant is recommended for the outer race of the wheel bearing and the hub area when pressing the bearing in? I've seen both wheel bearing grease and anti-seize mentioned. Do I use the same lubricant in both locations? This is the first time I'm replacing a sealed wheel bearing, hence the question.
TIA

 

I used grease until I started anti-seizing about everything that doesn't get locktite. To be honest, I haven't noticed any difference. Also, I pop a plastic seal (if they're metal, don't, you'll ruin them, just have to live with whatever is in there - I don't get that kind) to make sure there's enough grease. Most don't, in my opinion; surprised me to find out Chinese made AllBalls stuffs their bearings with good Chevron grease, probably why we don't hear of any failures. If its that clear vaseline looking stuff, I clean it out and use a quality name brand synthetic, not any of the cheap house brand stuff. Easy to get a plastic seal out with a tiny screwdriver, and they push right back with a finger. I think there's a good chance most of these bearing failures we hear about are more grease related than bad bearings, and possibly some that got side loaded when installed.

I actually found a few sealed aircraft bearings that had no grease at all in them, but I also looked in thousands of bearings over the years. Still, even a tiny percentage that will definitely fail is alarming in aircraft and motorcycles.

 

Guys, could use a hand here. I purchased a set of 2011 Road Glide wheels and had them powdercoated. They’re supposed to go on to my 2017 FLHTK.

I bought a Pit Posse bearing removal / install tool set for this project, and encountered absolutely no issues with pulling the bearings prior to sending the rims out for powdercoating. I also picked up a set of All ***** bearings, part number # 25-1691, for bikes with ABS.

After taking note of which side of the wheel had the HD and DOT cast on it (in this case the left or “primary” side) I installed the bearing seat tool from the right side through to the left, put the ABS bearing (with the magnetic sensor green side facing out) on the left side of the wheel, and tightend the nut to draw the ABS bearing in from the left side of the wheel until it fully seated. Next, I installed the spacer in the center of the wheel, reversed the seating tool to pull a non-ABS bearing in from the right side of the wheel, and tightend the tool until I felt the bearing touch the spacer.

However, my right side bearing is sticking WAAAY out:



My left / primary side (with the ABS bearing) has the bearing seated considerably deeper:



Is the ABS bearing supposed to be seated that deep? Did I somehow seat the left side bearing too far? Also, you can see that the spacer isn’t properly aligned with the bearing inside the hub. How are you supposed to keep that alignment when drawing the right side bearing in until it first contacts / kisses the spacer?

 

Well. I don't follow your process but it looks like you installed the wrong bearing first. Another issue is the powder coat. It should be cleaned off the rotor mount surfaces. Rotor may not fit and you'll have to trim PC of the lip. You should have cleaned out all the PC on the ID also.

 

This is what the factory service manual has to say about it:


Hmmmm, I hadn't considered that.

The good news is that other than near the lip, the ID of the hub (i.e. where the bearing seats) is clear / clean of powdercoat.

 

FL, you got your "Primary Bearing Side" mixed up and installed that First bearing on the wrong side

Where in your FSM instructions does it say to use the "DOT or "HD" Markings? (they are used in some cases) ... BUT your Original wheels and the 2011 28-Knuckles are marked on opposite sides

The machined groove indicates the Primary Bearing side (the Shallower bore depth side).


And like Max says, you really should clean off the Mounting Surfaces. They should have been Masked before the PC

.

 

Hmmm, earlier today I was researching what you wrote (in another thread) about enforcer wheels and thought that applied on my wheels as well.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...l#post15255602

Guess I glossed over the last part of what you wrote....... Looks like I'll be pulling my brand new bearings (and ruining them in the process), chucking them in the trash, and buying some new bearings.



Any idea how to get powdercoat off the rotor mounting surfaces without damaging the aluminum / scratching up everything else on the wheel?