I took my Shovelhead wheel to a welder friend, we put large nuts on the Allen bolts, welded through the middle, the heat helped, but the bolts came right out.

 

I have BP blaster too an save the Kroil for the jobs it can't handle. On the jeep forum (from my experience an reading there jeeps get pretty rusty) some guys make their own penetrating creation using the cheapest transmission fluid they can get an mixing it with mineral spirits or paint thinner to thin it out...it's supposed to be a great cleaning/rust eating fluid.

 

I thought about that. But I was worried what that much heat might do to a cast aluminum wheel. Plus, I hate things being left undone so I didn't want to wait until Tuesday!

 

these are tough dogs since the factory thread locked them. heat is your best bet. the suggestion about slotting the head is good and do-able but you will fair better with a hand impact along with heat. you can get heat dam putty from a welder supply so heat is contained to the head, could trickle water across the hub secondary.

one sure way is to lay a nut on top and weld though the hole, will only need a tack and not full weld and the weld heat is exactly where you need it, use this method many times.

 

Everyone keeps saying to use heat, so I'm thinking there's something to it. I'll keep it in mind for the next one. I've got two stuck/stripped mounting bolts on one of the brake calipers, too. So I may try the heat approach on them.

I'll probably stick with the slotting approach, even though it's destructive to neighboring parts. I don't own (or have space for) a welder, so that's another reason I've been avoiding the welding approach. But you never know. I may end up with one yet...

 

 

 

Option b from a similar project

 

 

I’m not a welder, I do have a HF welder, I put two spots because I was concerned about the heat on Aluminium. It came right out.